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Dynamat-->$1,339.00 to do Tacoma?

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Ocean's, Oct 31, 2009.

  1. Nov 4, 2009 at 9:34 AM
    #21
    Muy Grande

    Muy Grande Well-Known Member

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    We can meet up whenever, I can probably even help you out Friday night. What kind of setup you going with.......I started out with an Alpine 9883 and moved up to the AVIC-D3.

    Not sure how many DFW guys are on this forum, the only other one I know of is Dallas05 or something like that......bought some stuff from him.
     
  2. Nov 4, 2009 at 9:43 AM
    #22
    Muy Grande

    Muy Grande Well-Known Member

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    The deadener helps with Rattles, Vibrations, Road Noise and increases your Car Audio's Sound.

    I would suggest that you put some on the inside of all 4 doors (use both the sound deadener and teklite (closed cell Neoprene). This should help with the vibration issues. :D
     
  3. Nov 4, 2009 at 10:02 AM
    #23
    Veccster

    Veccster bass turds

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    OK, so how much Sq Ft is needed to cover a door? I have a double cab. If its a lot, I'll only do the front 2 but I have aftermarket speakers in all 4 doors. Do I just cover the area around the speaker?

    Does this go ON TOP of the plastic that is already in there?

    I can get 20 sq ft of Secondskin for $56. Is this enough for 4 doors?



    Sorry for thread jacking and being a noob :eek: I thought the OP might also be interested in this info.
     
  4. Nov 4, 2009 at 12:20 PM
    #24
    Muy Grande

    Muy Grande Well-Known Member

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    That sounds like more than enough for two doors.

    1. Make sure your windows are rolled all the way up.
    2. Take the door panels off - be careful with the electric switches (you don't want to brake the connection)
    3. Take the clear plastic off (you can cut it with a razor blade and discard or you can try to carefully take it off and reapply to the black sticky stuff.....I just cut it with a blade and threw it away).
    4. you will place the sticky side of deadener on the inside of the exterior door panel (one side of the deadener is silver and the other side has the sticky stuff) when you're done you should be able to look at the inside of your door and see the silver deadener. You'll need to make some measurements and cut several pieces to get all of the inside door. You can put an extra layer (cut out a square) in the area right behind the speaker. If you're using teklite, you would do the same process as the sound deadener.

    Hope this helps. This stuff is very sticky, I recommend you do it early in the morning or late at night when it's cool.
     
  5. Nov 4, 2009 at 1:38 PM
    #25
    Veccster

    Veccster bass turds

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    I see. Thank you for the information. I was never sure which part of the door to apply the deadoner to. So I guess I'll be reaching in through the various holes to apply this stuff.

    You said you cut the plastic out...is it not important? Does it not need to be replaced? I actually had a problem with mine vibrating because of the bass. I cut some holes in it to act like bass ports. If its not needed, I'll cut it out. But we do get alot of rain around here.

    Any pictures of a deadoned door?


    EDIT....nevermind! Thanks to Evil Monkey, I found these:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11059/cat/500
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/data/500/medium/RaamMat1.jpg

    I'll just cover the holes with the aluminum flashing so I don't have to replace the plastic.

    Is this necessary:
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11185/size/big/cat/500
     
  6. Nov 4, 2009 at 2:25 PM
    #26
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Do you also place the Dynomat on the door face behind the clip on door panel effectively making both inside faces of the door covered?
     
  7. Nov 4, 2009 at 2:29 PM
    #27
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    All of these questions should be answered in my thread that I'll be starting tomorrow. I was able to get the day off from work so I'll have time to do some work on the truck. :D
     
  8. Nov 4, 2009 at 5:06 PM
    #28
    Veccster

    Veccster bass turds

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    Here is a great write-up by RaamAudio:
    http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=56

    This assumes that you know whats best :D

    J/K...I look forward to your write-up on this. Take lots of pictures!
     
  9. Nov 4, 2009 at 7:23 PM
    #29
    95SLE

    95SLE Starting to get cold outside

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    Please put a link in this thread. I will probably start my stero install in 2 weeks. I have everything I need except the time. :(
     
  10. Nov 4, 2009 at 8:44 PM
    #30
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Time.....always the deal killer. I feel ya man.
     
  11. Nov 9, 2009 at 8:06 PM
    #31
    GT150

    GT150 Well-Known Member

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    Look for a product called FATMAT on Ebay, used it in my Z-28. Worked well and lot cheaper. But I did it myself.

    Mike
     
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  12. Nov 10, 2009 at 7:15 AM
    #32
    Veccster

    Veccster bass turds

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    Actually, it's no cheaper than RaaMmat.

    Fatmat: 50 sq.ft. = $90 w/ free shipping...............($1.80 /sq ft)
    RaaMmat BXT: 62.5 sq.ft. = $100 + shipping..........($1.60 /sq ft)

    I'm sure the quality is comparable.
     
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  13. Nov 29, 2009 at 9:53 AM
    #33
    Ocean's

    Ocean's [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ItalynStylion [​IMG] Did you start your deadening project?
    Senior Member


    I'm going to read up on sounddeadenershowdown, but if we mention your name will Don give us a discount?
     
  14. Nov 29, 2009 at 11:04 AM
    #34
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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  15. Nov 29, 2009 at 11:21 AM
    #35
    ItalynStylion

    ItalynStylion Sounds Gooooood

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    Ok, I don't know why my attempts at linking that thread have failed...I can't even permalink it; just sends me to the forum index and I don't know why. If it doesn't work for you guys just search, "My Deadening Project" in the audio video section.
     
  16. Dec 14, 2009 at 7:58 PM
    #36
    Ocean's

    Ocean's [OP] Well-Known Member

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    :cool:After much research, I have found that for me www.RAAMAUDIO.com will be sufficent to deaden any noisy interior parts, including Doors, Walls, floors, or roof. For about $150 Shipped, I got enough Sound Deadener and Foam to do all 4 doors, (inside and out) rear wall and side rear walls...

    Look at the , "How-To" from Rick the Owner and let me know what you think...

    For my purposes, and since I'm not competing, the few percentage points I will get from spending another couple hundred, or in Dynamat's case and additional $1150.00, deadening the entire vehicle wasn't worth it to me...

    However, at some point, I might find a few tiny rattles, and I will deaden them as i find em'

    Pzzzzz
     
  17. Dec 14, 2009 at 8:20 PM
    #37
    jab08

    jab08 Well-Known Member

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    How much $$ would it be for just a reg. cab? About how much would I need to do just the doors? And last question if I just did the doors would that make a difference in blocking road noise? Or would I need to do the floors and back panel as well?
     
  18. Dec 15, 2009 at 11:01 AM
    #38
    Rudeboy

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    Hi guys,

    Even though I don't own a Tacoma, I have dealt with several of you here and thought it would be a good idea to join. I've inquired about becoming an official vendor and will tread lightly until that gets sorted out. Actually, I'll tread lightly even after that gets sorted out since that's my style.

    Some of you will remember that I was behind the Sound Deadener Showdown site for 4 years before I converted it to a commercial venture in May. During that time I tested and reviewed the sound deadening products that are now my competition. Since this thread covers most of the sound deadening topics that come up over and over, I think it is a great place to make a few general points. Remember, I sell these products, so as much as I intend to be objective, a wise consumer will take what I say in its proper context.

    SPL competitors have different requirements but for most of us, concerned with noise attenuation and improving the quality of the music produced by our sound systems, it's really quite simple. Unfortunately, a lot of noise (forgive the pun) gets introduced into the conversation through unfounded marketing claims and ideas that seem like they should work.

    We have two effective tools to work with - vibration dampers and blockers. Vibration dampers are what most of us are familiar with. The most familiar of all are constrained layer dampers (CLDs) with a layer of foil and a layer of adhesive. Use a CLD to stop panel resonance. An untreated panel will act like a speaker or drum. It wants to vibrate at its natural frequency. Excite it with music or noise from outside the passenger compartment at that frequency and it starts to vibrate. This is either noise contamination for music or an important mechanism for transmitting noise from engine, exhaust, tires, traffic and air turbulence into the passenger compartment. Stop panel resonance and you eliminate distortion from musical playback and you stop an important router for noise transmission through the vehicle.

    The way a CLD works has been the topic of a lot of scientific research and gets pretty complicated. The important concepts to understand are that the constraining layer (usually aluminum) and adhesive are critical. The adhesive must be viscoelastic, meaning it has some liquid properties and some elastic properties. When it is deformed, it will return to its original shape more slowly than it was deformed. Vibrations are converted to heat because of strains between the adhesive and the constraining layer and between the adhesive and the substrate - the surface to which it is mounted. The adhesive does much more than just hold the foil in place and only a very narrow range of adhesive formulations will perform for this purpose. The aluminum layer needs to be reasonably stout in order to offer enough resistance to the adhesive.

    Here's where we run into problems. Most good CLDs use a black adhesive with a foil constraining layer. Many other products look similar, especially roofing materials. This has given rise to a lot of confusion. Some people are selling roofing products and calling them "sound deadener" and some consumers think they have hit on something when they skip the middle man. When I started researching these materials it was widely accepted that Dynamat Xtreme and MFM Peel & Seal were the exact same product, made in the same factory in Ohio.

    Sadly, these other products don't work well enough as vibration damper to be worth the effort. Some of them use asphalt as the adhesive. Asphalt isn't viscoelastic and has a very high failure rate when used in vehicles. Others use a butyl formula that is optimized for waterproofing. I have yet to find any product that is intended for another use that works well as a vibration damper. The other characteristic these products share that makes them ineffective is a very thin foil or plastic facing layer. For roofing, the foil only needs to protect the adhesive from UV exposure and the elements. It's kept thin to keep costs down and to allow it to be rolled. In my testing it takes about ten times as much of these products to equal the performance of a well designed CLD. The good news is that the least expensive way to treat a vehicle's panels is to use just as much vibration damper as you actually need. This will be less expensive, take less work and have none of the downsides that come with using a product intended for something else.

    A lot reading, I know ;)

    Some people will be satisfied with the results they get by just applying a vibration damper. Your music will sound much better, especially when parked, with the engine off. There will be some reduction in noise. Most people will not be satisfied. When Sound Deadener Showdown was a review and testing site, I heard from thousands of people. What I heard most was that they had installed a vibration damper according to the manufacturers instructions and didn't notice much difference in noise at all. This is very important. Vehicle noise is not only unpleasant, a high noise floor means you have to drive your sound system much harder to be heard. Not good.

    The vibration damper controls panel resonance but it doesn't do much at all to stop airborne noise. A very large component of the noise you hear while driving travels through the air and right through the vehicle's skin. To stop airborne noise you need to put mass between the source and your ears. This can be a layer of lead sheeting, its less expensive alternative, mass loaded vinyl, or just about anything you can come up with that is sufficiently massive to block sound. This is the same principle used by the sound barrier walls you see built along highways. To improve the barrier's performance you want to isolate it from the substrate. Closed cell foam is commonly used for this purpose, but any light weight, resilient material that will stand up to life in a motor vehicle can work. To effectively reduce noise levels you have to block it.

    That's pretty much all there is to it. Absorbers play a role in other environments. Because an absorbent material needs to be 1/4 as thick as the wavelength of the frequency you want to absorb, it just isn't practical in a vehicle. Most vehicle noise is between 50 and 500 Hz. To absorb 500 Hz you'd need something almost 7 inches thick. 50 Hz - 68 inches thick. Many of us used to believe that a layer of vibration damper followed by a thin layer of closed cell foam was all you needed to control noise. Consider this:

    1/8" - frequencies > 27 kHz
    1/4" - frequencies > 13.5 kHz
    3/8" - frequencies > 9 kHz

    Compare those ranges to the 50 - 500 Hz noise we are concerned with and the fact that CCF is a relatively poor absorber for the same reason that it won't hold moisture and I think you'll see what I'm saying.
     
  19. Dec 16, 2009 at 7:57 AM
    #39
    atsaubrey

    atsaubrey Dealer/Sales Rep for Sundown Audio.

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    Now my friend's thats a great write up, and deadballs accurate I might say.
     
  20. Dec 16, 2009 at 9:18 AM
    #40
    KAPendley

    KAPendley Best Hack I Know

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    Nice first post Rudy
     

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