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Dynolock install on 2011 Acess cab

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by BLKPSHN2, Jul 3, 2011.

  1. Jul 3, 2011 at 6:53 PM
    #1
    BLKPSHN2

    BLKPSHN2 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2011
    Member:
    #48993
    Messages:
    8
    Gender:
    Male
    Long Island NY
    Vehicle:
    2011 TRD Sport
    Since I have relied on this and other forums for invaluable assistance with various auto projects, I thought I'd let you in on a few bits of experience from my install that should save you some time. The instructions that come with the product are poor IMO.

    1. The instructions say to run the wire from the lock device through "the" drain hole. There are several. Choose the one to the immediate left of where the device is mounted. You will want to run the wire up the drivers side then across to the passenger side under the carpet, to avoid the heat from the exhaust system. Take your time threading the wire through this hole so as to avoid tearing the protective sheath. Look to run the wire behind the bumper and up out of sight. If you dont pay attention here to how its run the wires may be visible between the tailgate and the bed and thereby, accessible to anyone looking to get in your bed.

    2. Don't zip tie the wire until you have run the entire length and have checked and double checked that its run the way you want it and not above something it should be below or below something it should be above. I ran it nearly the entire way along the existing wiring bundle.

    3. I suggest coming up through this (below) rubber boot to enter the cab. Its a few inches in from the side of the truck and allows easy positioning into the track under the step rail. I used an awl to punch a small hole and then pushed the wiring through. It forms a very nice seal.


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    4. My biggest problem was locating the wires to hook to. The instructions lead you to believe they are located under the step rail. They are not ! They are located behind the passenger side kick plate. The forward step rail must be removed to allow removal of the kick plate but both just snap on and off. Use caution removing the kick plate so as not to damage the plastic molded in clips that hold it in place. Sorry for the poor quality photo but below shows the location of the wire tie in. (The area wrapped in electrical tape.)


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