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E locker swap write up (easy way!)

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Kaitukoff656, Sep 8, 2015.

  1. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:35 PM
    #1
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Whats up guys I successfully swapped over my elocker axle over and thought I would make a write up on it because I couldn't find many write ups on the swap!

    In my opinion first thing I did was take the bed off its 6 bolts and need a couple peoples help to lift it off and its off and you have all the room in the world after that. You can ever pressure wash everything with it off like I did:thumbsup:

    Unbolt everything off your STOCK axle Take the shocks off. Take the main brake line out. unbolt the portioning valve arm. and finally unhook the Ebrake and unhook the cable from the back plates. take the 4 through bolts off the drive shaft connecting to the 3rd member. drop the axle.

    Go ahead and bolt up the New elocker axle everything reversal of what was stated above. just dont worry about the ebrake because it wont fit anymore ill add to that later!

    like dis:D


    IMG_20150810_175408_zpsdylorhqw_13b8f397a7be7e4167b2bfc904982872dc95e8ad.jpg


    20150808_183013_zpstq04xu1x_591f3235269eb2fd6e01440002501584da5a7e6b.jpg

    Wiring:

    I went to lowes and bought 5 25foot 14awg packs all different colors this was over kill but will help later down the road if i have a problem.

    making the wiring harness is easy this is how I did it. pictures below:p

    So what I did was tie the 5 wires to a spicket.... lol

    20150808_200618_zpsvt8q3oww_9f4dc37eb8d02772c050d8c842249f81ebd07154.jpg

    stretch it wires out and cut it even. Then grab a drill and put the 5 wires in the chuck of the drill. then spin it. get it tight nut now so tight it breaks... lol

    20150808_200633_zpsntyrtnyb_a98bef38e13dbff7c9b8cb6afbc626d2f36ea587.jpg

    now wrap both ends with some electrical tape to hold it from unspinning and take it out of the chuck.

    take the harness and tie it to something like a clothes line and wrap it with electrical tape, wiring loom or something. I did electrical tape TOOK FOREVER...:(

    20150808_203318_zpspkjnyzfo_456224deed9d2f476bb790ff5e121cec97230e35.jpg

    now thats done you can start splicing it to the OEM short harness that plugs into the third member

    like dis:D

    20150809_132135_zpsgqaynwek_35398c3dd13c2f090566925077faa95769fd773e.jpg

    leave the 2 white/black wires alone they are grounds that ground to the chassis.:thumbsup:

    20150809_135827_zpsdgfstxta_a934efe4d192c06a356908c93fa87434ba576f3c.jpg

    This was mine

    RED to GREEN/RED
    BLUE to BLUE/YELLOW
    GREEN to GREEN
    WHITE to GREEN/BLACK
    YELLOW to GREEN/YELLOW

    BOTH BLACK/WHITE GROUND TO CHASSIS!!!!!

    (The colors on the right are oem from a standard pinion axle)

    Okay now run the wiring harness down the frame I went the route of the brake light wiring harness and went up through the cab right next to the driver door and seat

    20150809_135845_zpsnxorrwvr_46487f51d4d497fc7721f93ba3d429c914e0fb12.jpg

    Then into the dash.

    run a positive lead from the battery and fuse it.

    okay the switch
    http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/toyota-e-locker-switches.html

    spend the money its worth every penny!

    here is the switch diagram with oem colors its as easy as that!:bananadance::bananadance::bananadance:elocker_switch_diagram_copy_1_zpsfqekv65_2af76de4b5d1791c25f9f387caf6ec52ba73a995.jpg

    elocker_help_zpskqrovygv_f130dd81e5f852222456019bcc4295d2daed76be.jpg

    Screenshot_2015-09-08-17-32-54_zpsyhssry_c0f36a30fd00af2736999848ae872c8ad3c25b5c.jpg

    EDIT: forgot about the ebrake replace the ebrake from the cab to the axle prt#46420-35740 comes with all the factory brakets for about 80 bucks. (make sure that your original doesnt fit before you buy it...)

    thank you hope it helps :thumbsup::thumbsup:
    My first write up!:oops::rolleyes::thumbsup::rofl:

    WARNING! Match the gearing of the new rear end to the front diff! VERY IMPORTANT note: if you have the same as the front you are good!
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2015
  2. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:40 PM
    #2
    Deere9798

    Deere9798 Well-Known Member

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    Very impressive. I plan on doing this eventually.

    Thanks for the write up,

    _Charlie
     
  3. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:42 PM
    #3
    NicNac

    NicNac Well-Known Member

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    Nicely done, Good write up. Would this be the same for 2nd Gen.?
     
  4. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:44 PM
    #4
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks you!
     
  5. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:45 PM
    #5
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    not sure im sure the wiring is pretty close.
     
  6. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:48 PM
    #6
    Snowman

    Snowman I have a problem for your solution…

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    The only thing you didn't mention in the swap was matching the gears with the front diff. If you need regearing, that is probably the hardest and most expensive part.
     
  7. Sep 8, 2015 at 5:50 PM
    #7
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yes! thanks totally forgot
     
  8. Sep 8, 2015 at 11:24 PM
    #8
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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    Off topic but OP, is that a paranoid switch plate? Were you not able to get it aligned without that gap on the left side?? I ask because I'm bout to install one myself.
     
  9. Sep 8, 2015 at 11:48 PM
    #9
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I didn't have a gap?
     
  10. Sep 9, 2015 at 12:19 AM
    #10
    bry838

    bry838 Well-Known Member

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    Oh I'm sorry, it totally looks like it, there on the lower left. One other question, to pull the hvac face plate, does the a/c button need to be pulled out or does the face plate just pop off and button stays in place? My '00 has a lil different control panel but the a/c button would be same.
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2015
  11. Sep 9, 2015 at 12:46 AM
    #11
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You gotta get a screw driver and carefully pry it out the a/c button is a plug of its own it's like 2 inches deep into the face plate. Hard to explain
     
  12. Sep 9, 2015 at 7:37 AM
    #12
    knuckleduster271

    knuckleduster271 Well-Known Member

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    881's, 5100's, soft 8's, elocker, matrix seats, smittybilt xrc8.
    That's weird your ebrake wouldn't work, I did this same swap and no issues using my ebrake cable on the new axle.
    I did end up having my non trd backing plates pressed onto the elocker axles though because they were rust free.
     
  13. Sep 9, 2015 at 7:52 AM
    #13
    Kaitukoff656

    Kaitukoff656 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yeah I have a 97 and they run above the axle the newer 1st Gena run across the pumpkin
     
  14. Jul 10, 2016 at 9:02 AM
    #14
    TBeers

    TBeers Well-Known Member

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    Great write up, thank you! Just swapped a 410 trd locker in yesterday and need to wire it soon. Killer deal 400$!!! I have the stock wiring from the locker that would tie into the chassis wiring harness. Do you know where the male connector is available?

    Thanks!
     
  15. Jul 10, 2016 at 9:13 AM
    #15
    xcmtb83

    xcmtb83 Well-Known Member

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    McMaster-Carr sells almost every type of conductor you might need. Instead of making your own and covering them in electrical tape you can buy 18-7 or 18-5 conductors by the foot. I used 18-7 and added a relay so I could use the factory RR DIFF LOCK switch and dash light.
     
  16. Jul 10, 2016 at 9:19 AM
    #16
    TBeers

    TBeers Well-Known Member

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  17. Jul 10, 2016 at 11:41 AM
    #17
    xcmtb83

    xcmtb83 Well-Known Member

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  18. Aug 11, 2016 at 7:30 PM
    #18
    TBeers

    TBeers Well-Known Member

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    Sweet, thank you for your help! got all my supplies, wiring this weekend
     
  19. Aug 12, 2016 at 10:35 AM
    #19
    sk8rjess

    sk8rjess IG: @whoishack

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    some duct tape and zip ties
  20. Aug 15, 2016 at 9:18 PM
    #20
    TBeers

    TBeers Well-Known Member

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    Yea, I grabbed scrap 10 conductor (18 gauge) from the shop I work at. Very cheap ha ha ha
     

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