eBay fog light kits for '08-'09-'10 Tacomas....

No ! that is not what I implied. When the Fog lights are on and that is with the Parking light on :If you you hold the light switch lever up ( witch is the hi beam head light blinker)the Headlights come on and the Fog light go off! ( that is the way it should work)
When wired like the instruction that come with the Fog light kit : the Fog light are operational ( will turn on if the fog light switch is on ),when the Hi beam Head Light are on. From the factory they will not work (turn on ) when the High beam Head light are on.
Other then what I have posted they work great.
I was told that it was unlawful for the Fog lights to be able to turn them on while the High Beam Head lights are on! By a Toyota dealer.

Fore my self: instead of rerouting the the wires I think I'll leave it as is.
If you noticed, you can turn the Fog lights on when only the parking lights are on.
when wired to the low beam head light fuse,I don't know if the Fog lights would work (turn on )when the Parking light mod is no.
Hoping this is a bit clearer.(understandable )!

 

i don't have photobucket , I use Ulead 8. I tried it and doesn't work like you said.

 

The forum has the following instructions available to use as an option for images.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/new-members/9991-how-embed-photos-into-forum-posts.html

I get what you are saying. The "flash to pass" switch must deactivate the parking lights. Got my kit today. Will pick up a fuse tap and will look at what I intend to do to wire it up.

 

url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/309419/cat/500][/url]

url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/309424/cat/500][/url]
url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/309425/cat/500][/url]

 

half to go ! I'll finish the post above later ,Sorry

 

url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/309477/cat/500][/url]
url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/309476/cat/500][/url]

OK ! I'm back, well i just wanted to point out that there are different size of blade type fuses. My 2008 tacoma uses the mimi blade type. So when buying that ( sdd a circuit , fuse holder ) make sure that it is the same size as your truck uses.

Also I added a Picture of my 2008 Toyota Tacoma.

 

Neal.. yep that same kind of kit I have. but I ran the one red wire a bit differnt. the red wire from inside of cab.. I snaked another red wire to cab to engine . that one is hooked to the low beam socket then all done.. I have 50-state legal lighting.

 

Don't get the mini low profile, they won't fit in the add a fuse. You want the regular mini type with the longer prongs (ATM designation).

 

Glad to hear you got that figured out, where did you tap into the low beam?

 

the red / orange wire.. the socket behind the main headlight fixture.,, just slug the wire into the slot for that wire.

 

It is illegal, but California does not have annual safety inspections, I've never heard of anyone getting a ticket for it.

Honestly, with the fogs being white, if a cop gives you any shit, you could just tell him they're driving lights. He's not going to check the beam pattern.

 

For the add a fuse they are also referred to as ATM.

Did you just splice more wire on to extend the distance? I think I will go the same route but will go to the engine fuse box. I'm wondering about the harness wire gauge for the switched power source and if extending it could hurt it. I suppose if you use a small enough fuse in the fuse splice it won't be an issue.

 

randy..
I put another wire , 10 gauage all the way thru can to the engine compartment. no splicing or adding fuse. It allready have 25 am fuse on that kit. There is no harm longs the wire gauge only two size differnt.

 

Well let me say this: I have been reading the posts, and I think that it is time to clear up the function of the switch and the realy. So I'll give it a try! The RED wire coming from the switch should go to (R/H low beam, Head Light Fuse 10 amp. you will find it in the engine compartment fuse box.) (1) what this wire does is it sends voltage and amps. to the realy,and inside the realy is a switch ( when the switch gets POWER it movies the switch to make contact to the other side of the switch (like magnet).then the realy is energized and sends Battery to the 20 amp fuse, witch then turns on the Fog lights.

(2) Yes there are TOW fuses ! one 10 amp (because the switch can not handle more amperage,( it will get hot and burn up or fail )

(3) The 20 amp fuse is there to take the LOAD the fog lights create when on!

(4) As for the size of the wire: The smaller the number of the size of the wire, the more amperage & voltage it will Carry.( so if you had a N0 # 16 gage wire and wanted to extend it say 10 feet . ( before you extended it , the wire had 12 volts and 30 amps at the end of the wire) If you just used the same gage of wire to extend it say ten feet , then it would have the 12 volts but the amperage might be a lot lower ( like 15 amps). what happens here is that the wire will get hot and may melt and short out. because the can't carry the amperage. or possibly the item that it is connect to may not work because it has 12 volts but not enough amperage to function,or operate!

(5) So, the small size Red wire that is from the switch is very short in length.and bight be a #18 size wire. We are going to run it all the way to the engine compartment fuse box witch is about say 7 feet away. We will increase the size of the wire to say a # 14 ( witch appears to be bigger in size) this should Carry the load the Switch puts on it. ( witch is a very small load )

The realy has a amperage rating , and should be larger the the amperage load form the fog lights used. The relay takes the load the light put on it not the switch. that is why there is a 20 amp fuse be fore the realy.

Hope this has helps with the wire size and fuses!

 

Exactly. Was trying to determine if it is needed to replace the thin gauge red wire from the dash switch that sources the Lo beam fuse. (With a thicker gauge because of the additional distance back to the engine fuse box.)

Keeping in mind the total distance is from Lo beam headlight fuse socket (fuse tap) to the dash switch and back again to the relay. Distance from switch to the relay in the harness is right at 13.5 feet. Wire looks like 18 gauge. Many of the diagrams I am looking at show a 3 amp fuse for the relay to use for switching power.

What amperage draw is needed by the relay to operate? I found specs on the relay that came in the kit. Link below. As high as 131 milliamps.
If the wire is 18ga then is it sufficient to meet the load? (131 milliamps at 27ft) I realize the lighted switch also has some draw.

Given these numbers, the voltage drop percentage is .8% As I understand it, you want to keep that under 5%.

http://60.248.32.190/big5/maker03/htm/PD-DT/New/S11-1.jpg

So it seems a valid option would be to solder some 18 gauge wire and run it back through the harness to the fuse tap?

If we used thicker wire it will have trouble with using the switch plug in the harness. Correct?

 

Also I looked closer at the Kramer/Amazon kit. The small wire in the harness is marked 22 awg.

Here is a calculator for working out the gauge/distance.
http://www.denningelectronics.com/?p=444

Looks like you can safely run .5 amps approx. 32 feet with 22 awg. The relay uses 133 MA at most. That would still leave 400 MA for the led bulb and that would only be no more than 1/4 that probably.

 

I got pics showed the wire set up. frist one is the relay and fuse ( 20 am), the 2nd is one red wire to batt, 3rd is the firewall notice the red and main wires for foglight. 4th the low beam socket, noticed the red wire tapped there. 5th under the dash main wires black and extra red thicker wire. the thicker red tied to thin red wire. finally the switch.

 

OK ! just do this: the smaller red wire that is attached to the connector plug for the switch,and is about a foot or so long from the factory kit.The instruction that comes with the kit says to connect this wire to the PARKING light fuse in the under dash fuse box, by using a add a circuit device.
NOW what we are talking about is: instead of connecting it to the inside fuse box parking light fuse, just add a length of #12 gage wire to that red wire and insulate it really good and then thread it back through the fire wall to the engine compartment fuse box, here at the fuse box look for the fuse that is labeled R/H low beam head light .when found remove the 10 amp fuse that you will find there and insert the add a circuit device. connect the end of this to the wire to the wire we ran to the engine compartment fuse box. you will half to put TWO 10 amp fuse in the add a circuit fuse holder or it want work ( it is made to have both fuses installed at the same time. One fore the fuse you removed and the other for the new fog light circuit. Making sure you zip tie the added wire to the other wire harness to keep it out of trouble. OK all done! Just do the rest of the kit as instructed in the instruction sheet that came with the kit.( if it didn't come with the kit look at my pictures that I posted and there you will find the instruction sheet. PS. the # 12 gauge wire is rated around 12 to 14 amps. the switch will be fine with the 10 amp fuse!

 

url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/310639/cat/500][/url]
url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/311139/cat/500][/url]




Here are a few more Pictures of my installation, the Fog lights operate with in the Law ( Fog light only function when the low beam Head Lights are on. The Fog Light Switch will illuminate when depressed to the on position, while the low beam head light are on.
This will be my last post to this thread . I want the thank every one for the insite and help . I hope that I have contributed some help . On to the next threads!

 

May do the install tomorrow. I ran a 16 GA red wire back from the switch connector down through the smaller harness. I attached a connector to match the white wire. I then ran another section of wire down the larger harness with a connector on one end. The add a fuse will attach to the other end.

I'll then solder the new wire to the smaller red wire coming from the switch. I plan to use a 3 amp fuse on the add a fuse for the relay coil/led light on the switch. (Since the white wire is also carrying load from this circuit and would be the weak point.)