ECGS install advice

Dont overthink it, it is quite simple once the axle is out and you have the tool in your hand..... he said tool in hand.........

 

As mentioned, I also had to grind down the edges of the tool to get it behind the needle bearing. Other than that it was easy

 

Your tie rod concern is understandable. They can be problematic. If the usual tie rod separator (not pickle fork) fails try a 2 jaw puller. I've used that in the past provided there was enough room to use it. Loosen but leave the castle nut on so when it does separate it's contained and controlled.

As previously mentioned, using a quality penetrant is mandatory.

 

no need to remove tie rod to remove CV

 

In agreement with above, try taking the lower BJ bolts out and see if that gives you enough room. Brake line bracket too .. might not have to mess with the tie rod

 

that is all that is needed, lower ball joint, caliper/brake lines and wheel speed sensor

 

It’s been mentioned, but having a retractable pocket magnet is a huge help. I also put the bushing in the freezer right before it was ready to be put in. This seems to help a good deal. Also, don’t overthink it. It’s very straightforward. Once you get it started and it’s square, it’ll go smoothly.

 

Hit here with a BFH and the tie rod end pops right out.

 

Pitman arm puller. A good way to break those guys free

 

Thanks for the tips guys.
Only other question is the sway bar link.
Does it need to come off the spindle?

Looks like a lot of the guys aren’t running the sway bar.
So, they don’t mention it in the videos.

I know it’s a bunch questions. I’m borrowing my dad’s garage.
I want to get this done with as little trouble as possible. And be out of his way as quick as possible.

Thanks again.

 

Naw the end-links won't be in the way. Seriously, just start with the lower BJ and you'll probably be able to get the axle out

Don't forget a seal installer kit or equivalent

Honestly i didn't even replace the axle seal when i did mine because the needle bearing comes out without touching it.. and the truck only had 4-5k on it on so the seal was brand new

 

I got the seal and bushing installation tool.
I have a cheaper seal driver set. But like I said, I’m borrowing a garage.
So, I want to have all the stuff I need, even if I might not need it.
And, I won’t. Because 90% of the time. It’s something stupid.

Just 2 days ago, I needed to switch a tire on our trailer.
And the friggin’ bottle jack didn’t work. In the scrap pile it went.
Nothing like using a scissor jack laying in a pasture field under a trailer.

I’m almost scared to have a job go right the first time.
For fear , I didn’t do it right.

 

It's tough to do a job away from your home base. Trying to anticipate every conceivable trouble spot and have the parts, tools, and materials on hand is a mind melter. I've had offers of a friend or family member to let me use their garage but I normally turn it down for fear that something gets FUBARRED and I'm stuck there. Good luck and it appears that you've covered all the bases.

 

Yeah, my dad was a mechanic. He still has a lot of his tools.
I’m pretty sure I have all the tools needed. I’ve been buy them for a few years now.
I’ll have mine plus what ever he has.

Worst case, I get stuck there. I can drive his truck. He’s an OTR Truck Driver.
He isn’t home during the week. But I absolutely hate borrowing anything.
My alternative is a gravel driveway. And I don’t really want to take on this job laying in the gravel.
Or risk getting the parts contaminated with gravel or dirt. I don’t plan on doing this again. (If I’m lucky)

 

Gravel driveways suck, simply put. I couldn't do any type of serious maintenance till I converted a HF floor jack to a "Pro Eagle" wannabe. Somethings are still a struggle though. Maybe one day I'll have it paved.....

 

When I did mine, I removed the caliper and rotor. Disconnected the sway bar link from the spindle. Removed the 2 bolts connecting spindle to LBJ and the UBJ from the spindle. 2 hammers on each side of it and POP! Then the spindle swung out of the way.

Might I suggest knocking the edge off, on the back side (installed) of the T nut. Rather than take off the overall length. That should accommodate getting it in place. And it'll be less likely to shift out of place once it's in.

Good luck!

 

Yes, I’ve heard the new puller has been beveled on one side to make install easier.
I heard it on a YouTube video, so take it for what it’s worth.
I’ll take a pic and confirm if this is true or not when I get mine.

 

FYI To do the ecgs bushing alone you need to do nothing more than get the truck up in the air, remove the swaybar end link and the two big bolts that hold the LBJ to the spindle. Tie rod and CV can stay attached to the spindle/hub and you will swing everything out of the way when you pull the CV out.

 

Update

I got the parts and tools today.
The puller has a small bevel on the edges. Bit I don’t know if it is enough to “help”.
We’ll see once I try it.

I also got the install tool too.
The base of the tool is slightly larger than the bushing.
I’m hoping this will bottom out on the carrier and make the bush sit flush with the carrier.

 

I’ve seen the puller used bot way.
The first pic is the way it came in the box assembled.
The second is of the puller turned around. I’ve seen it used this way also?

What way is correct?
I would assume the first picture?