Educate me: Reservoir shocks vs non-resi

There are slight differences in the shocks, the link and descriptions show the emulsion shocks you're referencing and the Monotube/twintube seperate shocks he's referencing.

 

The difference is he said emulsion monotubes don't exist when they do.

I never said internal reservoir shocks don't exist.

 

Clam it down, he was misunderstood. Since he's said nothing else seems his education has been updated.

I hope the link and video posted earlier help the OPs education as requested.

 

Lol jesus the amount of defense coming through thread is hilarious.

Sandman614's post from shocksurplus.com nails it down. No one refers to monotube shocks as emulsion.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shock_absorber#Mono-tube

I cant think of a single vendor selling direct fit emulsion shocks for a tacoma. Some of Icon's shocks are listed as emulsion on third party sites but icon's site says they arent.

 

Well I was proven incorrect.

 

Bang your heads on the wall all you want. Doesnt change the amount of misinformation on this forum from people who have no idea what they are talking about when it comes to shocks and springs.

 

More oil capacity means you can run your shock harder/faster and have it still work.shocks over heat and then they don’t work as well,if you have a reservoir you’ll have a better performing shock to keep traction at high speed.and you’ll make others jealous of your bling since that seems to matter with a lot of folks haha,but I’m no suspension engineer...

 

The last time I came across you offering advice was going to lead to someone breaking parts on their truck, so before we get to that point again, I'll go ahead and leave you to your "expertise". unsubbed.

 

did you read the link and descriptions I posted?

 

There are A LOT of arms out there, and I’m about to summarize, so I might be wrong on some details.

Tubular are less expensive.
Aluminum looks waaayy cooler.

Tubular use bushings for better ride quality.
Aluminum use heim joints for more alignment adjustment.

You also need to look at the joint. I highly recommend getting a ball joint. They’re sealed and some are greasable. So they’re quite, have less friction, and last longer, especially in Alaska.

Best way to do it!!

In the front you’ll want a 2.5 Remote Reservoir. Since you want 2.5’s in the rear the exact part number will come down to lift height. Probably best to give us a call.

 

I 2nd this.

SPC offers more adjustments, but it can be hell to find someone to align it correctly.
JBA and Camburg offer ball joint versions with built-in additional Caster.

 

More great advice!
I will give you a call for sure once I’ve saved the moolah for the first upgrade!

Thanks again!

 

Can you guys help me understand why a lot of kits have remote resivoir shocks in the rear and not front? I would assume that the weight up front would benefit from the remote resivoirs, while a light bed wouldn't put much demand on them. Is it just because the bed is likely to be loaded up with gear? Aren't the engine and front passengers heavier than camping gear in the back? I never see kits with remote resivoirs on the front and not the rear.

 

99% of the kits we offer have remote reservoirs front and rear

I would imagine the kits you see are targeting a price point, nor performance.