Eibach PRO TRUCK Coilover 2.0 Stage 2

For anyone that has been getting a clunk, are you making sure that after an alignment that the Camber and Caster bolts are torqued to specs? Shops mess this up all the time.

2nd Gen is 100 FT
3rd Gen is more its 135 / 139 FT for each bolt.

Same issue between the 4th and 5th gen 4Runners too, they have different Torque settings.

I would also take the sway bar completely off and see if the clunk goes away. Plus check for sway bar contact with the Rad Supports too. With some of the 4Runner sway bar relocations you have to also add spacers to the Rad support brackets if its making contact there.

 

Have done this.

Have removed sway bar.

Myself and many others still have the slam.

The backside of speed bumps are so harsh

It's a lovely suspension setup otherwise, but had I known I would have spent a little extra for something that works correctly.

 

I had mine set at 2” instead of 2.5” because I didn’t want to be nose high at all with only a 1” block in rear.

I’ve taken normal speed bumps at 30mph with no odd noises. Now, the quicker/ taller bumps like you’d find in a parking lot, I’ve taken at around 10mph and nothing out of the ordinary there either.
I’m in a 2WD so expected the ride to be a bit too firm without added weight but honestly the feel is perfect for me.

 

I hit a speed bump coming on base T about 20 or so, had a decent noise from the front end, but that’s the only time I’ve had it occur.

 

Question for those who have installed this kit: what size tires are you running, what offset, and did you perform any cutting/trimming to fit them?

As my post on a previous page of this thread stated, I recently installed this kit with headstrong offroad AAL. After adjusting the coilovers, I'm right above 2.5" of lift in the front and about 1.8" in the rear with the bed empty.

I currently have 265-70-R16 (about 30.5" diameter) general grabber ATx on 16" level 8 MK6 wheels (which I think are 0 offset). Looking to go bigger, but I don't know how big. Fuel efficiency is not a concern (work pays for my gas) but noise and ride quality do matter.

I've been using to compare different sizes, it's a very useful tool.

Ideally I would want 285/75/r16, but I'm considering pizza cutters (255/85/r16) too

 

I can tell you that you can go easily go an inch bigger without any negative effect on ride quality and/or without even trimming any plastic. Noisy tires will be noisy at any size I imagine. The only help I can offer in that department is to say the Falken Wildpeaks have been very good for me. No more road noise than the stock tires had. I don’t know if I’d bother with pizza cutters if fuel mileage isn’t a concern. That’s the only benefit I really see to them. At least in the < 33” range.

 

T

The one flaw of 255 85 16 is there isn't a lot of tires to choose from and almost all of them are mud terrains. If noise and smooth ride is a big concern then nothing in that size may make you happy. I have 285 76 16 with these coilovers and my wheels are -25 offset. I do rub. But not a whole lot. Sticking with zero off set will help you rub less.

 

Thank you for the input! I've heard good things about the Falken Wildpeaks, and I've certainly been considering those. At first they appeared to just be a TW fad, but the hype appears to be legit.

Thanks for that. Do you have a pic of your Taco from the side showing those tires / wheels? Interested in how they fit/fill the wheel well.

 

I'm also a big fan of the wildpeak at3. I haven't had the wildpeak mt though and that's the only falken in the 255 85 16. If you went with the skinny 255 80 17 you'd have more options on tires. I wanted a all terrain tire and a 16 inch wheel. That's why I have what I have. These mickey Thompsons have been good but a little noisy. They are more of a rugged terrain. They fall between At and Mt tires.

 

I run 285/75/16 geolandar m/t on 0 offset scs wheels. My truck is a 4x4 SR which has no fender flares so should have a little more room, and I had to do CMC and trimming. I have SPC UCA and asked the alignment shop to move tires forward in wheel well.

I do not see how you guys are running this size without cutting. Unless you’re just riding on road? If you go 33s in an M/T just go ahead and factor in the price of the cmc and trimming.

 

I have done plastic cutting amd hammered the pinch weld but no cmc yet. I do want to because it does rub at times. Your upper control arms help make the rub not as bad. Some arms will make it worse actually.

 

Im currently running this (for now) with 35s. I did CMC relocation, SPC uppers and trimmed my fenders but I think most can go without it for 33s. Only time I rub is at full lock and on the frame. Im running stock FJ steelies which are a +15 offset and 45 backspacing.

 

So let me ask this before i do something foolish. Is this plug and play with no other parts needed? If so i can get this when it comes back in stock and have it installed. Ezpz...
I have a new 2023 trd sport stock suspension currently.

 

Yes it's just a simple bolt on. Most people will want to add something to the rear leafs to raise the back some. When you lift the front it can make the front higher than the rear. So an add a leaf, blocks, or new full leaf pack may be in your future after putting any suspension lift on your truck.

 

Im an absolute newbie to the truck world. Had an 07 scion up until now so completely oblivious. What is the best option. Dont want to skimp out and do more harm than good. Please show me da way haha

 

Well the first step is to decide how you are going to use your truck and whats your budget. This is just personal opinion but I feel a full leaf pack is the best option. I've had a icon 3 leaf aal on my truck for a couple years and when I load it down the rear does sag. If you aren't putting serious weight it it then the 3 leaf aal is a much better option than the block or single aal. (aal is add a leaf)
https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com...-96-up-tacoma-00-06-tundra-15-add-a-leaf-kit/

 

Alright thanks for the info. I wouldnt be putting serious weight in the back. Just looking for a good lift for some bigger tires to go to the mall in the woods hahah

 

You can just put a 1” block in the rear for now if your not adding any weight. Eibach has one that you can order when you get the kit. There isn’t anything wrong with doing a 1” block. It’s minimal cost and if you do decide to start adding weight down the road you can always get an aal or leaf pack then. By then you’ll probably be deeper into the hobby and more researched to know which route you want to go.

 

Awesome! Thanks for the heads up!!