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El Cheapo Heated Mirrors

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by tsilliker, Oct 7, 2008.

  1. Feb 12, 2009 at 8:15 PM
    #81
    Coupe

    Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Lots baby!
    Nice write up. Good idea!
     
  2. Feb 15, 2009 at 6:24 AM
    #82
    tsilliker

    tsilliker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Would you use them much?
     
  3. Feb 15, 2009 at 6:26 AM
    #83
    AK27

    AK27 Well-Known Member

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    how r those heated mirrors holding up? i'm thinking of trying this one out for the future mods list
     
  4. Feb 15, 2009 at 8:21 AM
    #84
    tsilliker

    tsilliker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tundra wheels, Access roll-up tonneau, D-rings in front of bed floor, tinted glass in doors to match privacy glass, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v plugs, heated mirrors, brake controller, billet grill, radio aux input mod.
    I've been using the heated mirrors for four months now, and no problems. I used exterior silicone as detailed in the original post.
     
  5. Feb 15, 2009 at 9:18 AM
    #85
    ERdept

    ERdept Well-Known Member

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    Tremendous write up and work.

    I'm just too lazy to do all that, sadly to say.
     
  6. Feb 15, 2009 at 9:52 AM
    #86
    sonjay

    sonjay Well-Known Member

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    I've been using mine often for the last 4 months also, I used exterior grade silicon, no problems!
     
  7. Feb 15, 2009 at 10:53 AM
    #87
    CtryBoyInMT

    CtryBoyInMT Lifetime Member

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    Tinted windows, Rear locker anytime, Secondary filter delete, Parking light activated Fog lights, USA▪Spec Ipod adapter, Map light mod, Relocated 7-Blade, Warn Trans4mer Brushguard & winch, Tire chains, Homelink© installed in headliner, LED lighted 4x4 Switch, Defrost w/o A/C, Heated mirrors, Bilstein 5100's (1.75") & Rear TSB, 50w Reverse lights, Pratt & Whitney PT6A-68, Will this list ever end???
    I also asked a friend, who installs auto glass as well, and he verified this. The reflective film is sandwiched between two pieces of glass.
    He also suggested exterior grade adhesive over silicone for longevity, but that is like peanuts, since comparing 20 years of life to 25 years of life for a vehicle is null.
     
  8. Feb 27, 2009 at 4:16 PM
    #88
    gdctaco

    gdctaco Well-Known Member

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    rr diff mod in-cab 110
    if i used a relay could i use the fog lights as the switch? just to avoid adding a switch
     
  9. Feb 27, 2009 at 6:46 PM
    #89
    sonjay

    sonjay Well-Known Member

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    ^ you could just wire it direct to the fog switch I would think. The heaters draw very little currant, however your fog lights would be on whenever your mirror heat is on!!
     
  10. Feb 27, 2009 at 8:45 PM
    #90
    gdctaco

    gdctaco Well-Known Member

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    rr diff mod in-cab 110
    cool i'm going to try this when i get a chance
     
  11. Mar 10, 2009 at 1:41 PM
    #91
    CtryBoyInMT

    CtryBoyInMT Lifetime Member

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    The Toyota Highlander switch works perfectly. The only bad, is it's about $60 bucks!
    The part number is 84871-48030
    The switch comes with a green colored background illumination light. You will need an amber bulb to match the Tacoma layout.

    Just remember when your wiring the elements that the switch is a ground contact. I only ran one wire through the door to reduce clutter and grounded the other lead within the door. Therefore I was required to use a relay. If I would have known I would have ran both leads. I figured a $3 relay was easier than taking the door panels off again, so I just wired in a relay.
    The switch will activate for 15 minutes per cycle, or until the vehicle is shut off.

    Here are some images...

    Edit: The switch will activate for 15 minutes, de-activate if pressed again, or de-activate when vehicle is turned off.

    light.jpg
    dark.jpg
     
  12. Mar 10, 2009 at 2:58 PM
    #92
    tsilliker

    tsilliker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nice switch! How may contacts does this switch have to connect to?

    So you are saying the 15 minute timer is within the switch?
     
  13. Mar 10, 2009 at 4:58 PM
    #93
    CtryBoyInMT

    CtryBoyInMT Lifetime Member

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    Yes, the timer is integrated into the switch itself.

    There are a total of 5 connections.
    You can get the factory connector for the switch, but I used the really small blade terminals (.11" width [2.8mm]). I added a picture, but I used uninsulated ones and covered them with shrink wrap so they could fit inside the switch. The cost for the plastic connector itself is only about $3.50, but each lead is $4 and for 5 of them, it was just more cost effective.

    The five connections are...
    1: Illumination Constant
    2: Illumination Rheostat
    3: Ground
    4: Timed Ground
    5: Accessory positive

    I got a copy of the schematic from a 2003 Highlander FSM from my dealer.
    If you don't have access to one, the numbers above correlate to 1 on the bottom and 5 being on top, with the switch mounted.

    Just remember... The switch makes a ground contact to operate. If you fail to do this, you will blow every fuse in the system including the 50A under the hood!!

    Edit: A have added a diagram to show how to integrate a relay into the system. In fact, I suggest all applications to use the relay.

    [​IMG]

    Ext-1222-001.jpg
     
  14. Mar 13, 2009 at 10:07 PM
    #94
    bk1

    bk1 Well-Known Member

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    ProComp Stage 2 6" lift, AAL, Heated Mirrors, DVD/NAV, Amp & Subs, Fog Light Mod, Rear Diff breather. WeatherTech Mats, Soft Tonneau Cover, 33" TrXus M/T, M8000 Winch & Bumper, CB, Rock/suspension Lighting and a whole lot more Soon to come rear Locker and more....
    future summer MOD comming up... SWEET and timer intergration :)
     
  15. May 4, 2009 at 10:02 AM
    #95
    deadbeat son

    deadbeat son Well-Known Member

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    Bumping an old thread, but need a little more clarification.

    So the +12v lead from the mirror would go to terminal #5 along with the switched power source? Or do you just tie the +12v in to an accessory fused location in the fuse box?
     
  16. May 4, 2009 at 12:10 PM
    #96
    tsilliker

    tsilliker [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Tundra wheels, Access roll-up tonneau, D-rings in front of bed floor, tinted glass in doors to match privacy glass, synthetic oil, Husky floor liners, fog lights, constant power mod for 12v plugs, heated mirrors, brake controller, billet grill, radio aux input mod.
    What you said will work. The positive to the heaters is switched with the key. The negative will be operated by the timed negative output of the switch.
     
  17. May 4, 2009 at 2:02 PM
    #97
    CtryBoyInMT

    CtryBoyInMT Lifetime Member

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    tsilliker is correct.

    For the cleanest install, Run both wires through the door to the switch. Then connect as above with the Positive (+) lead tied into the #5 slot on the switch. Actually it doesn't matter as long as you have both the wires at switch (+) or (-). There is no polarity to electric heaters.

    1: Illumination Constant
    2: Illumination Rheostat
    3: Ground
    4: Timed Ground (Connect to one lead from each heater) [2 wires total]
    5: Accessory positive (Switched power) & (One lead from each heater) [3 wires total.]
     
  18. May 4, 2009 at 8:08 PM
    #98
    deadbeat son

    deadbeat son Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good; thanks for the tips! I plan to use the Burco Redi Heat mirror elements as opposed to the motorcycle grip heaters. The only blank location I have for the switch is down near the lighter, so I'll probably just tie into it for the power source.
     
  19. Sep 5, 2009 at 5:49 AM
    #99
    shawnd2

    shawnd2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi

    Sorry to bring up an old thread

    When you hooked up the switch,did you use the constant illumination or the rheostat option?

    I'm assuming the rheostat option would have to be tied to the dimmer?

    Thanks

    Shawn
     
  20. Sep 5, 2009 at 7:36 AM
    #100
    anestech*

    anestech* Well-Known Member

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    What is frost and/or dew???:D
     

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