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electrical problem

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by sgeezy, Jun 14, 2011.

  1. Jun 14, 2011 at 8:34 AM
    #1
    sgeezy

    sgeezy [OP] Active Member

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    PB ARK
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    2.5" rough country lift, Billy 5100's up front, 31X10.50x15 BFG KM2 tires, 15x7 Black Crager 397 series soft 8 wheels. One 15" kicker L7 Subwoofer in ProBox. 2000 watt volfenhag amp. K&N Cold air intake. And 266K miles
    i replaced my battery about 2 weeks ago, its ran perfect. drove it on a camping trip this past weekend no probs. go to work yesterday and when i leave yesterday afternoon...nothing. wiggled some wires for 45 minutes and it turned on. this morning same thing. tried to wiggle some wires and nothing.

    the terimals are clean and tight. all ground wires are tight. alternator is charging and the battery is good.

    when i switch my key to the acc position my led interior lights work but when switched to on they go off and the ac, heater or fan wont do anything. headlights will not come on at all and when turned to the on position the fuses for the head and tail lights make an awful racket, when removed the racket goes away.

    could it be my starter or maybe my ignition?
     
  2. Jun 14, 2011 at 8:35 AM
    #2
    BradleyScottETC

    BradleyScottETC Class IV Category 8 Elite VIP Member (Only)

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    Did you purchase the correct battery?
     
  3. Jun 14, 2011 at 8:40 AM
    #3
    sgeezy

    sgeezy [OP] Active Member

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    2.5" rough country lift, Billy 5100's up front, 31X10.50x15 BFG KM2 tires, 15x7 Black Crager 397 series soft 8 wheels. One 15" kicker L7 Subwoofer in ProBox. 2000 watt volfenhag amp. K&N Cold air intake. And 266K miles
    yes, from oriellys. it's a superstart premium or whatever the best superstart battery is called
     
  4. Jun 14, 2011 at 11:11 AM
    #4
    dan0

    dan0 Well-Known Member

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    swamplands of sc
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    catastrophic cell failure
    most "new" batteries are rebuilds
    I've had the cell failure happen on a supposedly "new" battery
    have it tested under load
     
  5. Jun 14, 2011 at 3:45 PM
    #5
    sgeezy

    sgeezy [OP] Active Member

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    2.5" rough country lift, Billy 5100's up front, 31X10.50x15 BFG KM2 tires, 15x7 Black Crager 397 series soft 8 wheels. One 15" kicker L7 Subwoofer in ProBox. 2000 watt volfenhag amp. K&N Cold air intake. And 266K miles
    Once I got it running yesterday I turned on my headlights, ac and my subwoofer which pulls a ton of current alone and it dropped the battery down to 11.8, would charge up to 12 and drop down again, charge back and so on.

    So do you still think it could be the battery even after that?
     
  6. Jun 14, 2011 at 5:12 PM
    #6
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    Disconnect the sub. Make sure the battery cables are tight.
    Is your amp's remote wire hooked up to a switched source?
     
  7. Jun 14, 2011 at 5:46 PM
    #7
    sgeezy

    sgeezy [OP] Active Member

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    2.5" rough country lift, Billy 5100's up front, 31X10.50x15 BFG KM2 tires, 15x7 Black Crager 397 series soft 8 wheels. One 15" kicker L7 Subwoofer in ProBox. 2000 watt volfenhag amp. K&N Cold air intake. And 266K miles
    Just Tried that, Still nothing. Double checked all my grounds. Disconnected the negative to try and reset the ecu again and nothing headed to auto parts store to get new head and tail fuses. I think I have a direct ground some where, arced out on the negative post yesterday. All my other fuses are good and starter is getting power. Wiggled my wire harness and the fan came on? Idk, but I'm fum buzzled
     
  8. Jun 14, 2011 at 6:55 PM
    #8
    sgeezy

    sgeezy [OP] Active Member

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    2.5" rough country lift, Billy 5100's up front, 31X10.50x15 BFG KM2 tires, 15x7 Black Crager 397 series soft 8 wheels. One 15" kicker L7 Subwoofer in ProBox. 2000 watt volfenhag amp. K&N Cold air intake. And 266K miles
    Oh and my amp wire is connected to the ACC yellow (or red?) wire on the back of my cd player
     
  9. Jun 14, 2011 at 7:12 PM
    #9
    skytower

    skytower Well-Known Member

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    Hitch and wiring, aux back-up light, rear strobe lights, radio and underseat sub.
    You have a loose connection or broken wire in your harness. Moving the harness should not make things go on or off.
     
  10. Jun 15, 2011 at 6:21 PM
    #10
    sgeezy

    sgeezy [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
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    PB ARK
    Vehicle:
    SCRATCH n SNIFF
    2.5" rough country lift, Billy 5100's up front, 31X10.50x15 BFG KM2 tires, 15x7 Black Crager 397 series soft 8 wheels. One 15" kicker L7 Subwoofer in ProBox. 2000 watt volfenhag amp. K&N Cold air intake. And 266K miles
    Figured it out. My motor to chassis ground was to small. So all my electronics including my 2000 watt amp was pulling a ground through a 16 gauge wire, or w/e size the stock ground is. I had a 2 foot piece of 0 gauge and hooked that up to it.

    Runs like a champ now, shifts smoother, brakes more responsive. And my system hits even harder!! ( like I needed that)

    I recommend everyone to upgrade their motor to chassis ground. Located on passenger side at the back of the motor
     
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