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emergency brake cable replacement

Discussion in 'New Members' started by mytacoma2001, Sep 10, 2010.

  1. Sep 10, 2010 at 12:23 PM
    #1
    mytacoma2001

    mytacoma2001 [OP] New Member

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    Ron
    Ohio
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    4 Wheel Drive 2.4L
    Have 2001 tacoma 4 wheel drive. Tried to replace front emergency brake, but can't get the pin that holds the emergency brake out. any body know of an easy way to remove the pin without taking it to a dealer. Don't want to do that. Thanks
     
  2. Jul 20, 2012 at 12:21 PM
    #2
    Ecnerwal

    Ecnerwal Well-Known Member

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    gradually replacing the bumper with hairy bondo ;-)
    Huh. two years and no answer?

    Just had to figure this out. Found posts with people removing the whole assembly, removing the pin by driving it out, all sorts of work. Couldn't be right. Wasn't.

    Take a flashlight, 12mm wrench or socket, pair of needlenose pliers. Grab the handle above the door and slide awkwardly under the dash on your back (don't take it apart.) Pull the pin retaining the axle on the pulley. Slide the axle out (easier if you push down the gas pedal.) set pulley, axle and pin aside. Use the 12mm to remove the parking brake switch. Now the "trick" - reach up near the dash, on top of the shaft mechanism, and feel for the two ratcheting bits. Push on them until the handle will push in just that extra bit that will let you pull the cable end out with the pliers (over where the pulley was).

    Grease all the exposed parts of the cable very well, and use grease or antiseize on all the nuts and bolts for clamps and such, to slow the rate of rusting and reduce the time and frustration the next time you have to do this. Especially grease the exposed cable where the old one rusted and broke...

    The pin at the other end (under the truck) was rusted in place, but a simple use of an old sledgehammer head with the hole over the pin as an "anvil" on top of it (with room to drive the pin into) and a hammer on the pin got that out.
     
  3. Sep 8, 2012 at 4:17 AM
    #3
    rgd720

    rgd720 New Member

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    Ecnerwal has the best method. Not the easiest to get to, but not bad. Thanks for the posting. Now I can get this truck registered and on the road.
     
  4. Sep 10, 2012 at 6:21 AM
    #4
    Ecnerwal

    Ecnerwal Well-Known Member

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    gradually replacing the bumper with hairy bondo ;-)
    HtH. It was one of those things where it simply didn't make sense what some people were going through to do it. Maybe on one of those cars where it's "remove fenders to change spark plugs" it would be that hard, but not on a Toyota...though "remove intake to change spark plugs" is getting there, come to think of it...but at least they are 100,000 mile plugs.
     
  5. Jul 17, 2013 at 11:21 AM
    #5
    NC Tacoma

    NC Tacoma New Member

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    Thank you ecnerwal! I thought it was an elegant solution and the right way to do it. Only thing, I found I had to remove the lower dash panel to see the ratcheting pins and move them (for my 2003 model). Other than that, perfect!
     
  6. Nov 22, 2013 at 10:50 AM
    #6
    JLee50

    JLee50 Well-Known Member

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    Old post. Worth reviving. :p

    I had read about driving the pin out - was like WTF, that doesn't make sense at all. I tried, and bent my punch without moving the pin. So, I searched again..ran into this. WAY easier.
     
  7. Jan 7, 2015 at 7:40 AM
    #7
    chaco

    chaco New Member

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    I tried for a while with the screw driver technique on the ratcheting bits and finally figured out a "better" way to get the e-brake to push all the way in to allow for the removal of the cable.

    I cut an aluminum can from my recycling bin into a strip about as wide as the e-brake shaft. From the front, I pull the e-brake all the way out (engaged brake position), set the strip of aluminum on top of the brake shaft so it covers the final, lone groove. As you push the e-brake in (dis-engaged brake position) keep the aluminum on the top of the shaft. It's thin enough it'll slip into the ratchet housing and block the ratchet teeth from engaging with the grooves in your e-brake shaft and allowing you to push the brake shaft all the way down, exposing the end of the cable to remove.

    I found this technique to work well and not require me to be shoving my hand up under the dash blindly feeling for the ratchets pieces to force open.
     
  8. Apr 29, 2015 at 1:30 PM
    #8
    Lumpskie

    Lumpskie Independent Thinker

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    Toytec 16" coilovers with Tundra Bilstein 5100s, Light Racing UCAs, Alcan Leafs with Orbit Eyes, 12" Bilstein 7100 short Bodies, ARB rear locker, 33x12.5 Duratracs, CBI sliders, Bushwacker fender flares, self made front bumper, M8000, Vision X 6.7" Hi/Lo Beam HIDs, full skids, Inchworm dual case setup - 15º clocking
    Thread worth reviving again. I just used this method and it saved me so much work. Thanks, Ecnerwal.
     
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