Engine Break-in

I just broke 1k on my tacoma. I drove it hard from day 1. Full wot throttles, varying speed. At 1k i'm getting ridiculous gas mileage. Something around 1/4 of a tank for 90 miles

 

that's normal gas mileage...lol....really there is no need to rev the rpms past 3k during break-in.....the manual clearly states no fast acceleration....just run it through the gears gradually...no need to beat on it....check your oil level at 1000k...mine is still at the full mark...never moved....so no blow by....rings are seated fine...most of my driving is highway around here but i've never had any problems....i had a honda element and drove it 2 hrs from the dealership to my house with the cruise on 70 right after i bought it....it broke in fine.......but i wouldn't recommend doing that..lol....best thing is to drive in town going through the gears at different speeds and try to avoid interstates as much as possible or just drive slower than normal...i tried to keep under 60mph during break in.....or if i was on highway i drove 55mph for a bit then 60mph then back down to 50mph...just changing it up...even though i hate when people drive like that...lmao...prolly no real need to do all of that but on a new car you want everything to break in correctly so you do what you can

i used this same break-in on my 2006 mitsubishi evo ix mr and at 40,000 miles it doesn't burn a drop of oil ever and alot of people with those cars burn oil cuz they drive too rough during break-in...the owner's manual for it says keep it under 5k during break-in (it redlines at 7k)...the toyota trucks redline at 5.5K on the 2.7L...not sure about the 4.0L ...so keeping it at 3k or less should do the trick...maybe 3.5k at the most...just avoid reving it up to 5k during break in....heck i would never rev it that high anyways even after break in...lol

think about automatic cars...they usually change gears around 2.5k or 3k rpms and they break in fine

 

Highway or around town? That's not unusual at all for highway mileage. In fact, it's a tad low.

Not that I think it has anything to do with your break-in process...I reconfirmed with friends at a Toyo and Honda dealership this past weekend that engines from those two marques ARE broken in at factory before shipping out. I haven't checked other nameplates, but I imagine most of them are on the same page.

 

all new engines are broken in from the factory so "seating rings" and all that is not affected at all by real world driving. You can dog the engine from day one because its already been ran properly at the factory. The factory does no break-in at all for the drivetrain components like trans/diffs/etc and thats what your manual wants you to break-in. I'm more in the mentality that if i beat on it for a while and something breaks than better it show its weakness at 2000 miles than at 45000 miles.

 

This is a very interesting read for me. I know that Toyota run their engines from the factory before it is even placed in the vehicles so when I got my Tacoma, I drove it moderately not because I was breaking in the engine, but I was breaking in the other components like the transmission and transaxles. I did change the oil from the tranny and transaxles after 500 miles. The transmission(manual) drain bolt which is magnetized had a fine film of metal particles as expected. The oil in the engine was changed after 2K miles and no metal particles, also as expected.

I've read that article from Mototune a couple of years back and everyone has different ways to "break in" their engine but there's really no need for it anymore. I do however will be breakin in a newly rebuilt engine for my 1995 4runner next week which I will be using the varying rpm and load technique and changing the oil after first run and again at 500 miles.

 

really you shouldn't change your oil that soon...wait til 5000k like the manual says...the stuff from the factory is better than any oil you buy off the counter

 

It's not necessary but think of it as rinsing the internal parts of the engine.

 

Uh, says who? If it were so much better, I'm sure toyota would offer the ability to buy it as a stand-alone product.

Anyway, break-in oil changes really aren't necessary on the engine (as discussed), but it's a good idea to change the rear diff oil after the first 1k to 3k miles to get the metal out of there. If you want to be really efficient, put in about 50 or so miles in 4Hi early and change out the engine, rear and front diff, and transfer case all at the first oil change. I plan to switch all of these at 1k not because the engine needs it, but just to get the metal shavings out of the tranny and to get everything switched over to synthetic.

 

Got my truck with 2.3 miles on it, test drove a diffrent color one.

 

Followed the break-in on mine as close as I could to what the manual states. I figured that they should know more than I do about the initial break-in.

 

i would do what the manuals say, i think if toyota recommends to do something they may know what they are talking about, and its only like 500 miles

 

I know it may sound old school but if you pay 20G's + plus for a new ride and you whip it to death, that sure seems like a waste of money. There is a reason that they tell you keep your speeds moderate and vary the engine loads, thats the factory telling you this.
Of course it makes no difference if some one else paid the freight. That being said if it blows up, its got to be Toyotas fault , right?

Jeff , 06 V6, SR5, 6spd Radiant Red

 

I think it should be done lightly, the components in your motor need to be strengthened over time with the heat, givin er too hard of the start is likely to break something,

Once when I first started one of my rc cars the day I got it my friend turned the control on and I didnt know it. The throttle was set to max so as soon as it ignited it went full throtle almost and locked the motor, the motor actually siezed so fast it made the nuts come of the tires. anyways it cost me 200 bucks before I even got to drive it.

 

You are talking about a two stroke .25cc motor as opposed to 4.0L v6 gasoline engine. How long were you in wot before you shut it off?

 

.28 actually! lol

um well i didnt shut it off it shut itself off when it seized and then my lug nuts went rolling away when the tires locked up

 

o ya ci not cc

 

even tho its a small motor and only has one piston its still the same concept tho, its got mechanical moving parts and some sort of fuel igniting an explosion, so I still think that you should take it easy on your new vehicle

 

o btw I am just posting like mad cause I am trying to hit 1000 posts today

 

Never mind...