1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Engine "Break In"

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Coreyjon, Mar 24, 2008.

  1. Mar 24, 2008 at 8:04 AM
    #1
    Coreyjon

    Coreyjon [OP] Northern Alliance: Airlift Div

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2008
    Member:
    #5434
    Messages:
    453
    Gender:
    Male
    Upstate, Ny
    Vehicle:
    08 DCab 4X4 SR5 TRD Sport
    iPod Adapter, Bilstein 5100's @ 1.75" front, Wheelers 3-leaf 1.5" + overload rear (2"), custom carrier bearing drop spacers.
    Ok guys, getting my first new vehicle of my life Wednesday. I've heard there is a right way to treat an engine, and a wrong way (I know common sense should prevail here). I was wondering what tips anyone had on breaking in my new engine, it is the 1GR. I've heard everything to drive it like you stole it (my dads logic) and don't go over certain RPM's or engine loads. I really just want some opinions and suggestions.

    -I just read somewhere else that there is a recomended break in, in the owners manual. oops
     
  2. Mar 24, 2008 at 9:01 AM
    #2
    gsm

    gsm Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2007
    Member:
    #3426
    Messages:
    143
    Raleigh, NC
    Vehicle:
    08 Tacoma Regular Cab, 2.7L, Impulse Red Pearl
    DIY OEM Fog Lights on anytime, DIY OEM Cruise Control, Removed 2ndary Air Filter, Rear Speakers Mod, Traction Bar/Helper Spring Mod, Red Brake Drums and Rotors, Stainless Steel Exhaust Tip, Door Sill Protectors, Taco Bed Mat, Custom Front Mud Flaps (Mudguards), TRD Bucket Seats (pending)
    My opinion, keep the rpm's low. Don't unecessarily rev the engine. 2k - 2.5k rpms while shifting will keep up in normal traffic flow. Todays engines are built extremely tight compared to those of 20 yrs, or even 10 yrs ago. So being easy on it for the first couple of thousand miles will pay dividends both in the long run if you plan on keeping it, and in better performance after break-in. Mine has 2,700 miles on it and I believe I have hit 3k rpms maybe 3 times to date (passing, avoidance, etc.).

    I also like to change the oil/filter around 1,500 miles to remove any metal particles from breaking in with a good brand oil filter and a good quality synthetic oil (0w20 is optimum for the 4 cylinder). Then at 5k I do the same and every 5k after that. So my oil/filter change cycle is 1.5k, 5k. 10, 15k etc. After 5k I will just drive it considering it broke in (although other posts contest that fianal break-in for best fuel mileage isn't seen until sometime between 10k - 20k).

    My 2c worth. Hope it helps.
     
  3. Mar 24, 2008 at 9:06 AM
    #3
    lsocoee

    lsocoee My hair is all natural Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2007
    Member:
    #872
    Messages:
    10,102
    First Name:
    Hotdog
    Vehicle:
    2007 PreRunner SR5 Double Cab
    Wet Okole Underwear
    I went easy on my truck for the first 3000 miles. I kept it under 3K rpms the whole time. I changed the oil at 3000 miles and replaced with more dino oil.

    Also, don't plan on towing or heavy hauling for a little while.
     
  4. Mar 24, 2008 at 9:24 AM
    #4
    Coreyjon

    Coreyjon [OP] Northern Alliance: Airlift Div

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2008
    Member:
    #5434
    Messages:
    453
    Gender:
    Male
    Upstate, Ny
    Vehicle:
    08 DCab 4X4 SR5 TRD Sport
    iPod Adapter, Bilstein 5100's @ 1.75" front, Wheelers 3-leaf 1.5" + overload rear (2"), custom carrier bearing drop spacers.
    Thanks guys, I definately plan on keeping this truck forever. I want to do it right the first time.
     
  5. Mar 24, 2008 at 9:25 AM
    #5
    nagelg

    nagelg Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2008
    Member:
    #5184
    Messages:
    444
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    George
    Northern Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    '08 Black, acc. cab, 4x4, 2.7
    Just my opinion, no expert here for sure. I think there is a "sweet spot" for the RPM and ease on the engine, that's where the break in should be. Too low RPMs and the engine is overworked and too high RPMs the same. This is especially true for the smaller motors like the 4cyl. JMHO
     
  6. Mar 24, 2008 at 11:13 AM
    #6
    WilsonTheDog

    WilsonTheDog Kylie's dad

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2007
    Member:
    #3496
    Messages:
    4,841
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Eric
    Myrtle Beach SC
    Vehicle:
    07 Prerunner SR5 DC/SB V6
    Magnaflow 12576 muffler & chrome tip, Westin step bars, 27% tint, Pop N Lock, AFE ProdryS, bed mat, Husky liners, D-rings added, Access Literider tonneau, Pioneer 4-ways all around, GY Wrangler Duratracs 265/75/16, 5100's @ 1.75", 1.5" AAL
    RTFM. I'm joking but seriously, just follow the manual.
     
  7. Mar 24, 2008 at 5:09 PM
    #7
    aaronk

    aaronk Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2008
    Member:
    #5180
    Messages:
    199
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2009 Dbl Cab V6 TRD
    Dealer told me no hard stops (if possible) for the first 200 miles and no full throttle acceleration for the first 1,000 miles. I've got 2,500 miles on mine now and I drive it fairly easily but am not afraid to mash on the gas if I'm merging, or just for fun :D

    Bottom line is follow what's in the manual, it's Toyota's recommendation. Everything else is just based on opinion and/or whatever your dad taught you growing up. I've yet to see any hard evidence going either way that an engine that was babied when broken in lasts longer than one that was driven hard when broken in.
     
  8. Mar 24, 2008 at 5:53 PM
    #8
    zmtnbik

    zmtnbik FMLYHM

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2007
    Member:
    #2534
    Messages:
    259
    Vehicle:
    4x4 Trd Off-road
    Donahoe (Icon) C/O, TC UCA's, Dakar leafs, BilStein 5125's, 285/70/17 BFG MT KM2's, Raceline Renegade 17x9's, u-bolt flip kit, debadged, TRD CAI, TRD exhaust, URD MAF controller, 20% front window tint, 3M clear bra on bumper, cam locks in all storage compartments, fog light mod, Alpine X100 deck, Co
    Drove it really easy for the 1st 2500, changed the oil at 500 miles.
    Easy acceleration and easy braking for that first 2500 and you shouldn't have any problems.
     
  9. Mar 24, 2008 at 11:12 PM
    #9
    ERdept

    ERdept Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2007
    Member:
    #3187
    Messages:
    996
    Gender:
    Male
    I took it easy for the first 1500 miles, then changed the oil and filter to Penz synthetic and a K&N oil filter.

    The difference in smoothness was noticable.

    As the miles come on, it does seem to get better mileage and run smoother than it was new. I assume because it was "tight" and the parts weren't worn in to each other.
     
  10. Mar 25, 2008 at 7:09 PM
    #10
    deer_pop

    deer_pop Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Member:
    #3644
    Messages:
    90
    Ontario
    Vehicle:
    08 Double Cab TRD 6 Speed Manual Speedway Blue
    None yet
    Don't know if this counts but....

    I have two friends that work for Honda as mechanics and their recommendation it to leave the factory oil in for the recommended period 5000 KM and do not switch it earlier for the first oil change. They tell me that a factory oil is used with additives for break in.

    This is Honda not Toyota... believe in the break in oil or not... lots of speculation on this.

    Personally I will wait and change my oil to synthetic on the recommended mileage.
     
  11. Mar 26, 2008 at 7:08 AM
    #11
    Jeff

    Jeff Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2006
    Member:
    #59
    Messages:
    658
    Hopkinton,MA
    Vehicle:
    Nice 6spd,V6, very solid truck
    None currently, but I would like a better sounding exhaust and perhaps a cold air pack and some color coded step bars
    For my 2 cents worth, most of the advice given is good, always let the engine come up to temp before any excessive rpm's, with a brand new motor its a good recomendation to keep the rpm's in the 2000rpm range when shifting. Do not "lug" the engine and do not tow anything for the first thousand miles or so. It should be broken in by 1000+ miles , some Taco buddies of mine yank there oil out after the first 1000 miles. A few of them use dino oil and they change every 3000miles, these guys both have superchargers and do push there trucks more than I.
    I did not change my oil till the 5 thousand mark, and I did not tow my boat till it had 1500 on it.
    I recently kept the oil in for 6200 miles, the oil still looked very good and there was no oil usage that I could see. I finally, did change over to syn oil(Mobil One)(16,500) which I use in our other family vehicle. I will change every 5-6 thousand.

    The idea of driving a new vehicle " like you stole it, or like a rented mule" is really not wise.

    Jeff , 06,V6,6spd, 4x4, SR5 Radian Red
     
  12. Mar 26, 2008 at 8:26 AM
    #12
    Ridgerunner

    Ridgerunner Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2008
    Member:
    #5269
    Messages:
    3,615
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Frank
    San Francisco
    Vehicle:
    2001 prerunner doublecab limited
    2001 with; cat-back twin exhaust,elbow mod, Westin bullbar with Hella550's, Snugtop XTR camper shell, TRD off-road 2x4-black beauty.
    Back in 2001 they gave me a very specific breakin and I followed it religiously. First 500 miles-easy on the gas, NO fullthrottle, and keep your rpm's changing constantly (don't hold them in one spot too long). After that up to 2000 miles full throttle is ok but ease into it and keep it minimal. I personally change the oil every 3000 miles since then. I have 78000 miles now and this is a VERY happy engine. I agree with the guys about the tightness of a new engine-mine didn't "loosen up" till around 25000 miles! I think that's a toyota design secret for longevity and why you must follow a specific breakin if you plan on keeping it like I am.
     
  13. Mar 26, 2008 at 8:33 AM
    #13
    wiscdave

    wiscdave Lets Do It!

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2008
    Member:
    #5392
    Messages:
    2,547
    Gender:
    Male
    Northern Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    Tundra Rock Warrior
    Past ride - 3" OME 885s&Shocks/ TSB 1.5AAL/ AX184 Rims 285 Firestone destination ATs/ 2 Shallow mount P310s in Supercrew Box - Punch 601s, Beefed up Hunter Brush guard, Tint, Fog light mod, AFE Drop in, AC and Fog light mods, scangauge
    I towed my snowmobile 450lb + trailer 500lbs so say 1000lbs with 50 miles on her 175 miles one way ..I new I would be doing this but I kept the rpms moving up and down, used 4th for the hills and varied my speed and use OD on the declines and varied speed. I have 400 miles on it now and it seems ok. If it going to go, it would have went. 1000lbs ain't much, I did have 2 kids and the wife with me and some luggage.
     
  14. Mar 29, 2008 at 7:01 PM
    #14
    4x4x4trd

    4x4x4trd My other ride weighs 200 tons

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Member:
    #4267
    Messages:
    1,197
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    08 White Access Cab TRD OR, Debadged
    AFE oil free drop in, Secondary removed, tint, front D-rings, Toyota bed mat, Undercover tonneau, TRD seat covers and floor mats, Pioneer speakers, Westin Platinum bars, Fumoto oil valve, short antena, Nifty Xtreme's, TSB leaf springs, Bilstein 5100's set at .85" in the front
    As above using Castrol 5W30 and a Toyota filter. Now have 1200 miles and will be installing the Fumoto drain valve that 1st time.
     
  15. Mar 29, 2008 at 7:13 PM
    #15
    tacotoe

    tacotoe Pastry Chef

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2007
    Member:
    #3593
    Messages:
    422
    Nebraska
    Vehicle:
    `01 DBL Cab TRD
    Gibson Cat-Back Exhaust
    I drove mine normal for the first couple of oil changes, maybe only a couple times did I run it up in the RPM`s during this time.After that I would ocasionally run it harder (floor it to redline). 140k and still runs like new and don`t use any oil.
     
  16. Mar 29, 2008 at 8:43 PM
    #16
    klown

    klown Tacoma World Ring Leader

    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2007
    Member:
    #3716
    Messages:
    1,112
    Lynchburg, VA
    Vehicle:
    2008 TRD sport 4x4 double cab 6-speed
    Black, leather and heated seats, borla sport exhaust, side curtain airbags, daytime running lights, all weather mats, JBL premium 6 disk changer system, stainless step tubes, window tint, tow package
    I drive my bitch like I stole her. I know it's probably not the best thing, but I can't help myself. I'm still averaging 12 mpg avg. I've got about 2k on the bitch right now.
     
  17. Mar 29, 2008 at 9:10 PM
    #17
    4x4x4trd

    4x4x4trd My other ride weighs 200 tons

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Member:
    #4267
    Messages:
    1,197
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    08 White Access Cab TRD OR, Debadged
    AFE oil free drop in, Secondary removed, tint, front D-rings, Toyota bed mat, Undercover tonneau, TRD seat covers and floor mats, Pioneer speakers, Westin Platinum bars, Fumoto oil valve, short antena, Nifty Xtreme's, TSB leaf springs, Bilstein 5100's set at .85" in the front
    Maybe thats why I'm getting 105 more miles to the tank than you. ;) I'm still taking it pretty easy and averaging at least 17 mpg around town. Haven't been on a road trip since bringing it home. I've only got 1200 miles and going to change the oil at 1500.
     
  18. Mar 29, 2008 at 9:54 PM
    #18
    sawdust

    sawdust Unapologetic Texan

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2007
    Member:
    #2802
    Messages:
    1,292
    Frisco, TX
    Vehicle:
    07 TRD Offroad Radiant Red V6 Auto DC
    Homelink mirror, tailgate lock, 2ndary air filter removal, Access LE tonneau, Bugflector II, hitch-based bed extender, vent visors, suspension TSB, stall mat
    I drive pretty conservatively (most of the time) around town and I was getting around 17 mpg for the first several thousand miles. Now I'm almost to 6K and it seems to be loosing up. I'm seeing 18-19 mpg more often.
     
  19. Mar 29, 2008 at 10:14 PM
    #19
    4x4x4trd

    4x4x4trd My other ride weighs 200 tons

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Member:
    #4267
    Messages:
    1,197
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    08 White Access Cab TRD OR, Debadged
    AFE oil free drop in, Secondary removed, tint, front D-rings, Toyota bed mat, Undercover tonneau, TRD seat covers and floor mats, Pioneer speakers, Westin Platinum bars, Fumoto oil valve, short antena, Nifty Xtreme's, TSB leaf springs, Bilstein 5100's set at .85" in the front
    That's good to know as I'm sure we'll see $4.00 + per gallon this summer.:mad:
     
  20. Apr 1, 2008 at 3:50 PM
    #20
    4x4x4trd

    4x4x4trd My other ride weighs 200 tons

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2008
    Member:
    #4267
    Messages:
    1,197
    North Texas
    Vehicle:
    08 White Access Cab TRD OR, Debadged
    AFE oil free drop in, Secondary removed, tint, front D-rings, Toyota bed mat, Undercover tonneau, TRD seat covers and floor mats, Pioneer speakers, Westin Platinum bars, Fumoto oil valve, short antena, Nifty Xtreme's, TSB leaf springs, Bilstein 5100's set at .85" in the front
    Went ahead and changed the oil and filter today at 1210 miles. Day off and I mowed the grass yesterday, read bored. The oil was really pretty dark and dirty. Any way, the replacement stock Toyota filter I put on was about .75" shorter than the one originally on the truck. It still took 5.5 Qt. of Castrol 5W-30 to top off. I installed the Quick Valve in the pan at this time and was really pleased with the ease of the change. Pulled the rubber cap off the oil filter trap and placed a plastic cup under it, turned the filter 2 turns after the pan plug was out and let it all drain for 5 min. and it was pretty much mess free. One paper towel for the small amount of oil in the filter trap and done. So much better design than my '99 was. You had to be double jointed and on ramps to still make a mess on that one, even with the skid plates removed.
     
To Top