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Engine protection while off-roading

Discussion in 'Florida' started by TAC1, Sep 15, 2013.

  1. Oct 15, 2013 at 8:51 AM
    #21
    Toyota Tech31

    Toyota Tech31 Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

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    :spy:

    Yes we do!

    :D
     
  2. Oct 15, 2013 at 9:11 AM
    #22
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    That is true. Plus I have less guilt upgrading something when it breaks vs when it is in perfect working order.
     
  3. Oct 15, 2013 at 9:24 AM
    #23
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    After replacing my entire front end prematurely and having engine issues I now stay out of mud as much as possible. Not so easy when all my trails are below the water table
     
  4. Oct 15, 2013 at 9:36 AM
    #24
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    Damn! Yeah that is not funny. I don't usually get to crazy in water and mud out of fear of that happening. The video and GIF are from my first time wheeling. I plan on having my truck forever so I don't want to destroy it in the first couple years of having it.
     
  5. Oct 15, 2013 at 9:41 AM
    #25
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    Slow down and you will be much better off..... this is my typical speed or a little above what I normally do. If I had another truck there I would of gone slower.

    Photobucket video

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Oct 15, 2013 at 1:17 PM
    #26
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Petros "Peter" AGE: 41
    Miami, Florida
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    DCSB 4.0 Auto PreRunn
    FRONT: OEM PreRunner coils, 5100's @ .85, MaxTrac Spindles, 1/4" Taco lean spacer. ground to fender base: LF & RF: 40"'s hub to fender base::::: LF & RF: 25"'s REAR: 2012 OEM 3/1 leafs, Wheelers 3 leaf AAL, 2" Tapered steel block. Bilstein F4-BE5-B110-T5 ground to fender base: LR & RR: 41"'s hub to fender base::::: LR & RR: 26"'s All mud flaps trimmed 4"'s shorter.
    Great suggestions.
    Thanks!

    DAMN!

    Why did you have to replace your front end & what engine issues were you having?
     
  7. Oct 15, 2013 at 1:26 PM
    #27
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    Though it may not be far behind, odds are you're going to fry idler pulley bearings before the alternator or starter. Boyd said it.....go slow, and go second. first is cleaner water, but you want someone else to find those 8 foot deep sink holes before you do ;)

    for example, this toasted an idler in half a second....

    [​IMG]

    and this 20 second swim (that's a long time to sit in water that deep) did absolutely nothing....

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2013
  8. Oct 15, 2013 at 8:07 PM
    #28
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Vehicle:
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    FRONT: OEM PreRunner coils, 5100's @ .85, MaxTrac Spindles, 1/4" Taco lean spacer. ground to fender base: LF & RF: 40"'s hub to fender base::::: LF & RF: 25"'s REAR: 2012 OEM 3/1 leafs, Wheelers 3 leaf AAL, 2" Tapered steel block. Bilstein F4-BE5-B110-T5 ground to fender base: LR & RR: 41"'s hub to fender base::::: LR & RR: 26"'s All mud flaps trimmed 4"'s shorter.
    Hey colin,

    Cool boat! Looks like a Tacoma!:D
     
  9. Oct 15, 2013 at 8:11 PM
    #29
    HomerTaco

    HomerTaco That "grill guy" Vendor

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    :laughing:
     
  10. Oct 16, 2013 at 4:00 AM
    #30
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    Yes idler pulleys. I have in the past, on other vehicles, either fully packed the bearings with good grease, or disassembled them, replaced the bearing, but first, cleaned the oem grease and filled with good grease.

    I had read there is a vent on the starter, as time permits, I'm going to see if it's possible to route the vent higher up and externally seal the seams.

    As for the alternator, I have never done this, but it could be much safer to wire a system with single master switch shut down the alternator. This would reduce any loads, but limit the chance to short the internal electrical components. Once clear of the water, and after a minute o let the alternator drain and dry, it could be brought back on line.

    Not saying it would be beer or worse, just presenting an idea.

    Also Peter, if I had plans to drive in that much water, I would seriously consider making some rinse holes in the brake drums and even consider drilling some series of holes in the brake shoe friction surfaces. his would allow the ability to easily rinse the majority of crud out of the rear brakes.

    PK
     
  11. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:39 AM
    #31
    colinb17

    colinb17 If at first you don't succeed, don't try skydiving

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    lol. She's since been christened the SS Pucker Factor.
     
  12. Oct 16, 2013 at 10:55 AM
    #32
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    I typically don't "plan" on driving through water like that. It was my first trip and I didn't know anything. After those two events happened. I was informed about the risks of driving in water like that. I don't drive fast in water anymore, but I definitely drive in water sometimes.

    Thanks for the tips. I am not sure how or what I would do to go about drilling holes in the drums/shoes. I am mechanically inclined, but pretty inexperienced.
     
  13. Oct 16, 2013 at 6:51 PM
    #33
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Petros "Peter" AGE: 41
    Miami, Florida
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    DCSB 4.0 Auto PreRunn
    FRONT: OEM PreRunner coils, 5100's @ .85, MaxTrac Spindles, 1/4" Taco lean spacer. ground to fender base: LF & RF: 40"'s hub to fender base::::: LF & RF: 25"'s REAR: 2012 OEM 3/1 leafs, Wheelers 3 leaf AAL, 2" Tapered steel block. Bilstein F4-BE5-B110-T5 ground to fender base: LR & RR: 41"'s hub to fender base::::: LR & RR: 26"'s All mud flaps trimmed 4"'s shorter.
    Thans forthe suggestion PK. Thats a great idea!
     
  14. Oct 17, 2013 at 3:08 AM
    #34
    rickmeseke

    rickmeseke subaru of america

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    Don't hate on 2wd :(

    I did just fine at citrus last year besides getting pulled out 6 tomes by taco hell lol
     
  15. Oct 17, 2013 at 3:16 AM
    #35
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    Yes you drove through water, but if you saw the hump videos from Homestead shot this past weekend, you would see the water I was referring to with Tac1.

    Water overall can be bad, but for DD trucks, that water was pretty deep for minimal oem pretection.

    Don't take it wrong, yours was cool also. You kind of splashed through, these guys were like a war movie when the captain calls out DIVE!, DIVE! DIVE!.

    PK
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2013
  16. Oct 17, 2013 at 3:29 AM
    #36
    Warputer

    Warputer Dirt Road Inspector

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    Last time I changed my air filter, the paper filter was stained with red mud.....not good.
     
  17. Oct 17, 2013 at 4:01 AM
    #37
    TAC1

    TAC1 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    DCSB 4.0 Auto PreRunn
    FRONT: OEM PreRunner coils, 5100's @ .85, MaxTrac Spindles, 1/4" Taco lean spacer. ground to fender base: LF & RF: 40"'s hub to fender base::::: LF & RF: 25"'s REAR: 2012 OEM 3/1 leafs, Wheelers 3 leaf AAL, 2" Tapered steel block. Bilstein F4-BE5-B110-T5 ground to fender base: LR & RR: 41"'s hub to fender base::::: LR & RR: 26"'s All mud flaps trimmed 4"'s shorter.
    :rofl:
     
  18. Oct 17, 2013 at 2:56 PM
    #38
    PMK

    PMK Well-Known Member

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    Damn early morning typos...edited the Do to Don't

    PK
     
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