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EQ in hazard/clock location: Long with pics.

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by craigFLA, Oct 26, 2008.

  1. Oct 26, 2008 at 9:19 AM
    #1
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2007
    Member:
    #2944
    Messages:
    420
    Gender:
    Male
    Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
    Vehicle:
    Tacoma TRD Sport Pkg.#1, XSP Package
    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs
    I have been researching and collecting components for my audio system for the last year. For this post, I won’t go on and on about what gear I have etc, except to say that I have collected some of the best components money can buy (IMO), and upon completion will post detailed info and pics.

    One question I've had for sometime was whether it was feasible to relocate the hazard/clock assembly from under the head-unit to the lowest (angled) cubby, and install an EQ in its place. I would like my Audio Control three.1 to be easily accessible, as it has controls for sub volume, rear fill, etc.

    I've posted on numerous forums, as I would think that someone somewhere has completed, or at least attempted this mod. To date, I have found NO info on it.

    Please don't be surprised or upset (some get really cranky) when you see this exact thread on other sites. I will be posting on a few different sites in hopes of getting a variety of opinions, or even better examples of personal experience.

    SO..yesterday, I finally did some "exploratory surgery" to find out once and for all if this was possible, or more accurately something I could do, but later be reversed when I trade out of the truck. I will be keeping my factory dash kit, Head unit, etc. like many factory pieces in storage.

    My 06 Tacoma is an XSP, and came from the port with carbon fiber interior trim (see pics below). I’m not normally one for this sort of thing, but I have grown to like it, especially the fact that its different then 99% of other Taco's on the road. I will be installing a double din NAV system, so like many I purchased the Scosche dash kit. Obviously, with my trim being carbon fiber, the silver or black dash kit just simply was not an option.

    I spent several months researching, and spent hundreds on carbon fiber ABS, actual CF, decals, etc. before finally finding the factory match. Hell, I even sent my Scosche kit to CA and had it carbon fiber dipped, which looks cool, but isn’t close to matching my OE. Superior Dash out of Daytona Beach manufacturers the dash trim kits for Southeast Toyota. After speaking with them, they agreed to allow me to send them my Scosche dash kit, as well as the trim or faceplate for the hazard/clock assembly once/if I relocate it to the lower cubby.

    The following are my thoughts on the procedure. Normally I would just do the mod, and then later post pics. Unfortunately my home AC unit is being repaired (condenser coil has more holes then Swiss Cheese), and its 90 degrees in south Florida and raining like hell. The only safe place for me is out in the screened in patio in front of the fan...with my laptop. So weed through my long windedness, and let me know your thoughts. Whether you would attempt this yourself, and if you think it’s worth it.


    I won’t spend alot of time on the actual relocation of the hazard/clock assembly, as it seems relatively straight forward. Rather then utilize the entire cubby, I would "box-out" the top half or so, leaving the lower part open for storage. I haven’t decided rather I would use ABS plastic or mdf (more then likely a combination of both) but know that when it’s done I can send the face-plate to Superior Dash, and it will match the rest of the interior.

    Now, on to the dash kit.

    I used my factory dash kit for mock up, as it was quicker, and for all purposes here there should little difference between the OE dash kit and the Scosche.

    These pics show the EQ in the hazard/clock location. Obviously the vertical plastic piece that trims the hazard will have to be removed from the Scosche kit, but notice too that the opening is wider then the EQ.



    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Using ABS plastic to close off approx. 1/2" on each end shouldn’t be a big deal. It can be glued from the inside, and the carbon fiber will hide it all.


    Mounting the EQ...

    After using a precision measuring device, it is evident that the stock HU mounting brackets would need to be modified for the EQ to fit.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    My next concern is the amount of the OEM bracket that would need to be removed. The inside mounting tab would have to be eliminated, requiring the outer tabs to secure the HU & EQ.
    But I believe this would also severely weaken the bracket near the location of the remaining outer brackets. Removal of the inside mounting tabs would require strengthening of the outer tab area by angle gussets, or maybe just skinning the area with additional heavier gauge metal. More then likely, welding would be involved.


    [​IMG]


    I’m convinced that I can either modify or make an additional bracket that will bolt to the sides of the HU, and extend low enough so the EQ can be secured properly. This is something I'm confident I can work out when I’m actually doing the mod, as metal fab is kinda my thing. Whether I tig an additional piece to support the outer remaining tabs, or build and entirely new bracket out of heavier gauge metal, I'm pretty sure I can safely secure the deck and EQ to the truck using only the 2 outer mounting tabs.


    Now, finally, the biggest challenge... Mounting it all to the truck.


    The horizontal trim piece (where the inside Head-unit mounting tabs bolt in) will have to be removed from the truck.


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    This is all plastic, and can probably be removed relatively easily using a dremel and air-body saw. I would guess a substantial amount of filing or "clean-up" grinding with a small die-grinder will be required.


    [​IMG]


    Something I would want to do probably after I gut the entire interior for sound-deadening, ensolite, and wiring as it will no doubt be a dusty messy job.


    Well, that’s all I have for now. After a few hours of investigation, I am convinced this is possible (with a lot of work).

    I would appreciate any thoughts, suggestions, or opinions on the matter.

    Thanks,

    Craig
     
  2. Oct 27, 2008 at 3:30 PM
    #2
    craigFLA

    craigFLA [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2007
    Member:
    #2944
    Messages:
    420
    Gender:
    Male
    Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
    Vehicle:
    Tacoma TRD Sport Pkg.#1, XSP Package
    Leather, 20" rims, Borla cat-back exhaust, running boards, back up camera/3" screen in rear view mirror, carbon fiber interior trim. Tow Package. MODS: URD intake BHLM. Tinted tails & 3rd brake light Fog Light mod. 5pc Grill Craft (High Gloss Black powder-coat) T-Rex eye-lids AVS Wind Deflectors 3M Window Tint 15 front/30 rear OBX Sports Pedals Viper 5901 / remote start Pioneer AVIC F90BT-NAV Hybrid L8's in doors, L4's and Dynaudio MD102 tweets in custom kicks, morel rear-fill, JL TW5-13" sub, JBL MS-8, 2@Tru B475, Tru 4.65, PPI a600.2, PPI 456 X-over, Raamat BX2 and ensolite. relocated rear seats 3/4" Retrax cover electric dual "dead-bolt-lock" electric tailgate lock. electric Dynalock for Retrax Cover/custom fabricated case. kinetik second battery/power-gate isolation. Powerslot Cryogenic rotors, Hawks HPS Pads, SS lines,painted calipers&drums FULL trans flush mod OE Denso plugs
    bump...
     
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