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Exhaust Leak..

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by kyledamon, Jan 16, 2019.

  1. Jan 16, 2019 at 5:12 PM
    #1
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My exhaust is leaking from several junction points and I’m looking for an opinion on the best way to fix the leaks. Should I attempt to fix the leaks myself or just being to a shop?

    It’s essentially leaking from all connection points at the middle of the exhaust system between the headers and the cat/muffler.

    On the drivers side coming from the headers here:F370E7CE-A94C-44DB-A4EE-4FFB484A78FB.jpg
    Passenger side coming from the headers here:176281F3-8DC6-42BB-91CF-921578CCD176.jpg
    D2019C4B-D51C-4532-9214-AEB76C67DDD6.jpg

    And headed back towards the cat/muffler here:31F07C53-221E-4EC7-969F-CA6B89533463.jpg
    I’ve circled the leaky points here:
    37AC9D1C-DC23-427F-B698-209356DA468B.jpg

    I don’t have much experience with exhaust so how bad of a fix is this?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Jan 16, 2019 at 5:42 PM
    #2
    locster

    locster Well-Known Member

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    There's probably a metallic gasket at each joint, see if replacing those gaskets can seal the leaks. Other than that, I got nothing besides taking to a muffler shop for them to weld on new flanges
     
  3. Jan 16, 2019 at 5:50 PM
    #3
    Other Scott

    Other Scott Well-Known Member

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    I have the same problem on the drivers side flange. It started after my frame swap and I've tried replacing the gasket twice now and it still Leaks. Guess I'm going to say f$*k it and turn the radio up.
     
    sramirez1516 likes this.
  4. Jan 16, 2019 at 6:50 PM
    #4
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I’m worried that if I try and loosen the nuts they’ll break. I may just consult a muffler shop as I imagine these leaks are the culprit to my low mpg and 0420 and 0430 codes
     
  5. Jan 16, 2019 at 7:52 PM
    #5
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    OP, the OEM gaskets for the areas you have circled are a bit pricey IMHO. I have sourced some aftermarket which appear to be the same or nearly the same and use them on mine. I can see possibly breaking off a stud or nut on those flanges if way rusted but no big deal they are available as spare parts. If you do not feel warm and fuzzy about doing it yourself I bet a muffler shop would do it relatively inexpensive but if this were mine I would first inquire with them about possibly bringing your own parts. Some are ok and some not.
     
  6. Jan 16, 2019 at 8:03 PM
    #6
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Perfect! Just the advice I was looking for. Thank you!

    If I do tackle this myself I may just have to get a my heater buddy as my garage isn’t heated or insulated
     
  7. Jan 16, 2019 at 8:27 PM
    #7
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    If you do this yourself and want to use the aftermarket gaskets send me a PM so that I will see it and I will dig up the part numbers.
     
  8. Jan 16, 2019 at 8:35 PM
    #8
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Right on thank you. I did find the OEM gaskets on Amazon for about $10 a piece.. The reviews weren’t very good for the Walkers.. any experience with them?
     
  9. Jan 16, 2019 at 10:03 PM
    #9
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    Looks like I sourced mine from Rock Auto and used primarily Fel-Pro gaskets and a Walker bolt/spacer/spring kit. OEM part numbers are also included.

    Gaskets
    - At flange where the cats first attach to header manifolds, both sides: Fel-Pro 61040, need 2. OEM is 90080-43036
    - At RH (pass side) where cat flange attaches to downstream connecting pipe: Fel-Pro 61040, need 1. OEM is 90917-06083 but the Fel-Pro 61040 also works fine there.
    - At flange where both cats merge together and downstream where they connect to the muffler pipe piece: Fel-Pro 61106, need 1. OEM is 17451-0A010

    Hardware
    - Nuts at the flange connecting both cats to header exhaust manifolds on both sides: OEM are 90080-17187, need 4
    - Bolts connecting RH (pass) cat at flange to downstream connecting pipe: OEM are 90080-10064, need 2
    - Nuts for the two bolts immediately above connecting RH (pass) cat at flange to downstream connecting pipe: OEM are 90177-A0004, need 2
    - Two long spacers, bolts/springs at flange where both cats merge together and downstream where they connect to the muffler pipe piece: Walker is 36454, need 1 kit. OEM is 17451-0A010, need 2
     
  10. Jan 16, 2019 at 10:23 PM
    #10
    TacoGlenn

    TacoGlenn Nobody Makes a Monkey Outta Me!

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    I've had good success using a propane torch to heat the nuts, they always seem to come off fairly easy that way.
     
    KTM753 and kyledamon [OP] like this.
  11. Jan 17, 2019 at 2:29 AM
    #11
    Other Scott

    Other Scott Well-Known Member

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    Bilstien 5100's , 885's, 2.0 aal, and 265/75/16 on TRD wheels. Yellow fogs, fog light anytime mod. 2 meter ham radio, TRD exhaust. LED light bar.
    Mine throws the same codes.
     
  12. Jan 17, 2019 at 4:10 AM
    #12
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Wow, thank you so much! I’ll try and tackle this myself when I get a warm enough day/heater.

    Do you think it’s worth it to replace the bolts with stainless or no?
     
  13. Jan 17, 2019 at 4:12 AM
    #13
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thinking I’ll put some map gas to it and hope for the best.
     
  14. Jan 17, 2019 at 4:14 AM
    #14
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    And it’s prob killing your mileage if it’s anything like mine
     
  15. Jan 17, 2019 at 4:42 AM
    #15
    Shadowfax4X4

    Shadowfax4X4 Well-Known Member

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    I’ve got a y pipe for 2wd 2nd gen and some headers/manis for sale. Came off at ~50k. PM me if you’re interested.
     
  16. Jan 17, 2019 at 5:00 AM
    #16
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    From a 4cyl?
     
  17. Jan 17, 2019 at 8:34 AM
    #17
    dirtdigginjoe

    dirtdigginjoe Resident meth-head

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    A 4cyl wouldn't have a y-pipe...
     
  18. Jan 17, 2019 at 2:09 PM
    #18
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ahh plus header(s) being plural.. Prerunner...
     
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  19. Jan 18, 2019 at 6:53 AM
    #19
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    In the second pic it looks like a weld has failed? And the hardware looks newer there. It looks like this has been apart at least once before. The last picture hardware doesn't look factory, but dunno as I have a 4 cylinder.

    Buy all new hardware before you start- it's unlikely you'll get any of those joints apart without breaking bolts unless you have an oxy-acetylene torch. I was able to get my 4 cylinder exhaust apart but I have an OA torch. If those are studs on the end of the converters and if they break you'll be drilling and replacing. If I didn't have an OA torch I'd buy the supplies and see what a local exhaust shop would charge to change it out. Since they'll have a proper torch and a lift they'll do it fast as they do this all the time. And if that joint has failed they might be able to weld it back.

    The current MAPP gas isn't much hotter than propane- it's different from the "real" MAPP gas that was sold ~10 years ago (look it up). Even the good MAPP gas wasn't generally up to rusty exhaust hardware
     
    kyledamon [OP] likes this.
  20. Jan 18, 2019 at 10:40 PM
    #20
    kyledamon

    kyledamon [OP] Well-Known Member

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    All of what you’re saying makes sense. I may get a quote for what a muffler shop will charge first as I imagine once I tear into it, I’ll be like 6 hrs in messing around while cold and not having proper tools.. (torch). Either way I need to get this fixed. Drove down to Boston for the Celtics game today and got like 13 mpg. Plus it was loud in the cabin with those leaks. Thank you!
     

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