Fabtech 6in lift

I have a question. I don't have a lift on my truck, but I'm curious, because I'm thinking about this in terms of geometry (it's my geek engineer background) and the 6 inch lift doesn't seem bad to me for general offroad use. I think the common argument and conception of lifts confuses ground clearance and articulation in the conversation.

So, for the guys running 3 inch lifts or SAS, what are you referring to when you say clearance ?

I'm thinking ground clearance (by that I think of how high the differential is off the ground, and the ONLY thing, EVER that will allow greater ground clearance is bigger tires, because that is the only thing that raises the center of the spindle or axle which is the ONLY thing that's going to get that differential higher, period.

As for articulation, which is probably what most guys are talking about when they say clearance (being able to take a rock straight on with one tire and have it tuck nicely up in the fender well while having the other side hang down as low as possible), SAS is superior I'm sure without argument, now the 6 inch lift might limit the control arm articulation for IFS trucks, this I don't know, so if that's the case please inform so we all know the specifics.

Just trying to clear up the people that are for or against the different lifts, because someone who may have barely ever turned a wrench probably gets confused as all hell when they read these threads and it's not helping them learn anything. Sorry for jumping in out of nowhere and being anal, just trying to help folks.

 

As noted in my prior posts, the ground clearance I was referring to is that between the ground and the front crossmember. That distance in increased with a 3" lift on the IFS because the crossmemeber stays fixed while the LCA's rotate downward to accommodate the lift.

 

The problem with drop bracket lifts is that in order to achieve 6'' of lift you must drop the LCA's down from their original location in the front. So any clearance you could gain in the front is negated by the fact the drop bracket actually reduces your clearance because the crossmember for the IFS is lower, so in order to gain any clearance you have to run ungodly large tires. So all that money and time you spend putting on the DB lift, you gain nothing except look. (and it looks like crap...imo)

They are impractical if you want clearance and o/r capability.

 

As long as you stay with IFS that's going to be a problem no matter what, just like a solid axle and the differential, you're only going to get but so much clearance. Nothing will stop you from high centering in deep ruts or nailing large rocks other than bigger tires.

Anyone not doing hardcore rock crawling in the west will probably make out just fine I have a feeling.

 

This explains much better. I haven't looked under my truck lately. If the crossmember ends up sitting 3-4 inches lower from the differential than it would anyway, then I could see the problem.

 

Wow... This is rediculous. Numbers don't lie, but I'm over it. Whatever, I'll concede this debate. You are right. Everything I have said is completely false. Don't get a 6" lift.

 

Show me, or even explain to me how you have more ground clearance at the crossmember than a 3" lift and I'll believe you

What "numbers" are you referring to that aren't lying? You haven't posted any numbers.

 

your right...numbers dont lie...thats why its easy to see how you are wrong.

If you are running a DB lift and 33'' tires, its IMPOSSIBLE for you to have more clearance than someone with a regular 3'' lift and 33'' tires.

Think about it....Both setups gain the same clearance because of the tire size, but the dropbracket lift setup has less clearance because the crossmember is lowered.

 

I wrote the following in another thread:

The problem is in trying to reduce all the variations of clearance to a single number.

LOOK under your truck. Is everything the same height? Of course not.

You need a "minimum" ground clearance, and a "maximum" ground clearance number.

Minimum would be the number where you start rubbing something (rear differential) when you're driving in deep wheel ruts.

Maximum would be the tallest rock you can drive over with careful driving without "putting a wheel on it."

And then there's the tallest rock you can traverse when you do "put a wheel on it."

Given the same size tire, a "drop bracket" lift will probably have a lower "maximum clearance" than a 3" lift created with extended length struts, because the height under the drop bracket will be lower than the highest point on the rear axle, while for a 3" strut lift, the opposite is likely true.

Tire size is the only thing that affects minimum clearance.

But there are so many ways to hit, and rub rough objects on the ground.

Any suspension lift will get the frame, and the front and rear bumpers further off the ground, increasing the variation in terrain you can traverse without dragging some part of the truck on the offending terrain.

A 3" lifted tacoma with 33" tires, traction aids such as lockers, and sliders to protect the rocker panels is quite capable on quite a variety of trails.

A 6" drop-bracket lifted tacoma will be able to traverse a larger obstacle by "putting a wheel on it" because the front, rear, and frame clearances are higher.

Also, once you start wanting to attack trails that are "too difficult" for a 3" truck with 33" tires, you're really starting to cross over into the realm of trails where body damage becomes a seriously likely possibility. Just my observation, but it tends to appear to me that most guys running drop-bracket lifts seem to like to keep a clean, undamaged looking truck. I know I do.

Finally, drop bracket lifts don't increase suspension travel, but do increase overall rig height and center of gravity. Rollover is always a risk offroad, so keeping CG as low as possible is desirable.

The best advice is not to make any off-road modification to your truck until you've driven somewhere that it would have been useful. Sliders are a possible exception - but the counter argument says: drive to the place/trail/obstacle, assess, then take the bypass or turn around rather than risk damage. Come back next time with the appropriate armor.

 

What I get out of all this nonsense is if you have a $4,000-$8,000 PoS that you just want to rock crawl with go with 3" cheap lift. If you want over 3" run oversized tires, look like a nice dd, have the $ to spend and go offroad too go with DB lift. If you want to go extreme SAS. You 3" guys are out of control.

 

there is nothing cheap about a proper 3'' lift.


If I had the money for a DB lift I would go for ICON coilovers, and TC UCA's and have a much nicer setup on and offroad than any DB lift. And still end up cheaper than the DB lift.

Thats not "cheap"

DB lifts have many more downsides than upsides, we aren't "out of control," just pointing out the flaws of a DB lift.


To each is own...if you want to run a DB lift, go ahead.

 

hmmmmm this is ridiculous. I honestly see no point in a DB lift. If someone gave me a DB lift I would not install the POS. I would sell it and then get coilovers, or a front locker, or armor, or gears, or a crawler, or a winch, or lights, etc.... There are much better things you can do with that money.

Another reason I dont understand DBs. With a 1'' BL, which there is no problem in, you can fit 37'' tires with a firewall tub. Dont tell me your scared to do a firewall tub when you are talking about cutting up the crossmember to install a DB lift. 37s are really the maximum size tire your gonna want to run on IFS, regardless if you have room to fit them or not. Anything bigger than 37 on IFS your an idiot and you dont wheel or you break shit all the time. Look at GOTCOPE? truck. Thing is sick, ive wheeled with him multiple times and he does great, granted he has broken a set of spider gears or two. He fits 37s with a 4'' lift, coilovers at 3'' plus 1'' BL. Again I dont understand the point in a DB lift, if someone could explain it to me, that would be cool because you probably cant....

 

Heres the link to his build thread.

 

I personally went with the db lift because I wanted to avoid my cv boots from rubbing and everything else thats put into a bind with spacers or coilovers. The guy that owned my truck before I bought it ran a 3" and wasn't a fan. My cv boots have a perfect ring from where they were rubbing with that lift. I wished to go up more than 3" so with that I went with a lift. I could have done a nice 3" lift and BL obviously but went against that for alignment issue and BL are junk. I didn't want to tub anything. I agree I cut my crossmember out that was a hard thing to do but put in solid parts. Not to forget the ladies love a big mall crawler that they aren't embarrassed to ride in. (that'll probably get a response or two) ;] Peace.

 

Agreed. You can run 35's with some trimming and a 3'' lift. And you will get more clearance than any DB lift.

Maybe you shouldn't be driving a Toyota then....with that mentality you should be driving a big 'ol cheby silverado

 

Manual hub conversion would solve that problem.

I agree with anything over 1''

I dont care, I've already got that taken care of.

 

drop bracket, along with a lot more fail...

 

Sickkkkkkkkkkkk. I wish my truck looked like that so I could get all the chicks at the mall

 

parking fail.

 

I wish i had 20s haha