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Factory speaker replacement with out amp

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by VincentB, Mar 8, 2010.

  1. Mar 8, 2010 at 6:25 AM
    #1
    VincentB

    VincentB [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2010
    Member:
    #32352
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Vincent
    New Orleans
    Vehicle:
    2010 Tacoma PreRunner Dbl Cab Longbed
    Alright guys, here is my installation of speakers into my Tacoma Double cab. This install is only a speaker upgrade on amp was installed.
    Alpine SPS-600C in the front
    Alpine SPS-600 for the rears
    I took the factory tweeter and cut out the interior of it and used it for the new tweeter mount.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    After I cut out the factory tweeter and straightened out what was to be the new mount I wrapped the frame of it in tape before locking the new tweeter in place.
    [​IMG]
    You do not need to worry about the connector that connected to the 6x9 use the factory tweeter connector. The connector that attached to the tweeter consisted of four wires (2+ & 2- ) that later merged into two wires red being positive and the other being negative, that is the pair I derived power from.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The Pic above is another of the connector that connected to the factory tweeter after I wired to the terminals on the 6 ½ that were supposed to be used for power from an amp.
    The SPS-600c is wired as follows:
    The tweeter is receives power from the 6 ½ that’s why there is a capacitor built into the wiring and the 6½ has 4 terminals on it. Don’t power the tweeter separate from the 6 ½. I’m not sure if the stereo will fry it.
    Below is the connector that was connected to the factory tweeter showing where I soldered it to the wire going to the 6½ for power. Follow the diagram on the back of the box
    [​IMG]
    The wire above with the capacitor went between the tweeter and the 6 ½.
    I mounted the 6 ½ speaker by taking out the 6x9 speaker and tracing the factory mount on to a sheet of ¾ inch Lexan Plexiglas. I then cut it out using a jigsaw and sized it up against to make sure I had the right fit. After making sure I had the shape right in order for it to fit behind the door panel I then drilled the holes to fit the metric bolts. These were the same bolts that held original 6x9. One thing I did do was counter sink the bolts since the bolts were so short. Be sure to drill a hole for the wires for power and to the tweeter to come out of.
    Make sure to pre drill the holes that hold the speaker into the lexan. When the plastic gets hot from screwing it in it melts around the screw. I broke two screw heads
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    It probably was not necessary but I siliconed the lexan to the door frame to stop air loss from behind the speaker. Yea I went a little crazy with the gorilla tape but I didn’t want a bunch of rattling from the capacitors and connectors.
    The Speakers sound great even with just powering them from the head unit. I’ll update when I invest in a GPS Stereo and amp
     
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