Finally wiring my seats (power adjust and heat) - Need Help

2005 Subaru Forester XT seats installed in my 98 Tacoma.

Driver's side is power adjustable.
Both are heated.

Driver's side literally has two wires on the bottom of it for power to adjust the seat. When Jon and I initially installed it, we ran those wires to a spare battery I had lying around. Adjusted it for me and disconnected it. It's been like that ever since. (I kind of like the fact that no one can mess with my adjustment )

But the time is now to wire it up properly. Where should I run these two wires to in the truck? I would like to be able to adjust the seat with the ignition off. How do I go about wiring it? Inline fuse? Relay? I honestly have no idea. Safety is my utmost priority, obviously.

Another option: I am going to get one of those fuse blocks for auxiliary items such as LED lights, etc. Should I just run the positive and negative off the driver's side seat to one of those fuses? Any idea what size fuse I should use?

Seat Heaters: Under each seat is a clip connector for a wiring harness that operates the seat heaters. I pulled a wiring harness and seat heater switches out of a 2005 Forester that match up perfectly. I would like to put the seat heater switches in the clock panel (ala Jace). Again, how the fawk do I wire this thing up? I would like for the seat heaters to turn off with the ignition should I leave them on when getting out of the truck. Again, safety is of the utmost priority. And before you ask the obvious, yes I did ask Jace but at the time he was super busy with work and his own truck so I didn't want to pester and prod.

Thanks in advance.

Oh... and if any of you are in the Boulder metro area that loves wiring shit up... and loves beer and BBQ ribs.... I'd be more than happy to have you here and feed you well.

Young Brett... is this something you can do without burning down my truck?

 

One day I'll get my power 11 Camry seats installed because now you're making me

 

No guarantees

I would have to look at that harness again on how to wire the seat heaters. My guess is they draw enough current you want a relay. You could wire the relay so that a fuse tap to the accessory fuse turn on the relay, wire the switches in line, and draw the power straight from your fuse block.

As far as the powered seat, I would just run a fuse tap off any one of the empty fuse slots. That would allow you to run it any time. You could also run in to the fuse block, but that seems overly complicated for such a minor item.

 

I do have one of those cheap power checks.

I am fairly confident I could find an aux power feed (aux 12v lighter outlets under the ash tray) but I just don't know if it's safe to add seat heaters to the circuit.

 

Yeah see... I really have no clue what dafuq you just wrote there.

I am seriously thinking about buying an aux fuse block because I now have aux lights I want to wire up. Plus I want to get the 6 switch panel in place and dial in a few more things (CB, subwoofer). Would it just be easiest to run the power adjustment off of that? (as csuviper aluded to)

 

Interesting. How was the install of the seats themselves? (Rails/etc?)

 

Pretty intensive. I couldn't do it by myself. 45acp pretty much took the lead on it. This is the way we did it... so that it would be factory ride height.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...djik-mans-laugh-him-build-14.html#post6029229

Jace (lotsoftoys) installed his (same seats) much more basic. They fit fine but sit much higher.

 

Basically, we really just need to figure out the amperage those seat heaters draw. If you want them to only work when the car is on, they need to some way tie into the existing ACC fuse or similar. If they draw too many amps to add to that circuit, the relay is used so you can draw the full power from the battery (or fuse block) but still get them to only turn on when the car is on.

Not really, the power seat is so simple it seems like a waste to run it through the firewall and take up a slot on your fuse block. I still think an add a fuse to one of the empty slots would be the best solution. That by itself could be wired in like 10 minutes.

 

So when do you want ribs and beer?