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First compound bow: Draw weight help?

Discussion in 'Guns & Hunting' started by 808Raider, Jul 13, 2012.

  1. Jul 13, 2012 at 7:43 PM
    #21
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    tonneau
    I remembered something else. As strings stretch a 1 1/2 cam and dual cam can go out of "time" because they need to rotate exactly together to make the bow balance out. In that respect a single cam model will give lower maintenance cost since it can never go out of time (the top 'cam' is just a round wheel).

    Sorry the word n00b set me off and my brain asploded all over my keyboard
     
  2. Jul 13, 2012 at 7:58 PM
    #22
    TNDrew

    TNDrew Well-Known Member

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    Right after high school is when I started shooting and i was still pretty "buff as shit" I shot 70# easy, but without working out it turned to fluff. I was still pulling 70#, but not accurately. I lost 50 pounds and turned it down to around 62 and its still plenty fast enough and much more comfortable. I suggest as a noob to start out at 60, especially if its a newer bow. You can always go up if you want to. Also if you pull a weight a little too heavy you lock your front arm out and it will slap the holy fuck out of you. Make sure you go to a good bow shop preferably with a range and let the guys there watch you shoot and make some adjustments to your technique. It will feel awkward at first but you will be much happier.

    I started out with an old High Country Split Force 2 that was set to 85# and shot old aluminum arrows just trying it out before going to the shop to have it set up. I shot 3 times and my left forarm was solid black for 2 weeks. I still have a little scarring where it broke the skin.
     
  3. Jul 13, 2012 at 10:54 PM
    #23
    sportsterchop200

    sportsterchop200 Well-Known Member

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    "Another little tidbit, don't believe that IBO speed. That assumes 30" draw, 70# weight, and a 250 grain arrow. Most bow manufacturers void your warranty if you shoot an arrow with less than 5 grains per pound of draw weight because of risk of vibration damage to the limbs. That means a 70# bow should have a 350 grain arrow, minimum. D'oh!"

    IBO is 5 grains per lb of draw weight. So if the bow your looking at says its 340 FPS IBO, that is a 350 grain arrow at 70lbs draw weight and 30" draw length. Most people recomend a minimum of 6-7 grains per pound of draw weight for compounds.
     
  4. Jul 14, 2012 at 8:57 AM
    #24
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    Throw that d'oh at me. For years I thought they were using 250 gr arrows and were full of BS.

    Agreed on the second part. It really keeps the vibration down.
     
  5. Jul 17, 2012 at 6:58 AM
    #25
    808Raider

    808Raider [OP] State of Mind

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    thanks for all the responses. theres no bow shops on maui so i went with a martin saber magnum closeout model from huntersfriend.com. bow is 55#-#70 so i went with 60#. the sales guys were pretty helpful and will set it all up to my spec and it comes with a buncha extra accessories. hopefully 60# is a good start, can always adjust. and someone posted some pics, but yes mouflon are european bighorn sheep. they were introduced to lanai along with axis deer for game hunting purposes a long while back by settlers. now there is a lottery to hunt them every fall. i just drew rifle tags for september but theyre not an easy hunt.
     
  6. Jul 18, 2012 at 6:31 AM
    #26
    thinkingman

    thinkingman Well-Known Member

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    Foglights are for fog, not oncoming traffic!
    This, plus Iroh's post are your best advice.
    You'll find bows are like cars....some guys just HAVE to have bragging rights regarding pull weight and IBO.
    IBO is meaningless.
    Buy good arrows.
    I shoot Beman.
    6 for practice, 6 for hunting.
     
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