First Gen Tacoma Driveshaft Options/Solution

Hi all. I'm in the process of amassing parts to put the Wagoneer D44 under my 03 xtra cab but am having little luck getting specific details about front driveshaft solutions. I know there is the option of going full custom but I'm trying to reduce costs (within reasonable circumstances) where possible. I have a few questions.

1. I understand there is a D44 to Toyota flange but is using the stock single cardan driveshaft a feasible option, or will I need to go double cardan like is found in the IFS pickups? (Hoping to avoid double cardan as it necessitates rotating the pinion upwards, thus requiring the outer C's to be ground down and rotated to compensate for caster angle).

2. Is there any way of mating the stock shaft to the pinion yoke of the D44 by using some sort of special u joint?

3. I've read acceptable shaft angles anywhere between 10 and 30 degrees and do not know which is gospel (I understand that increased angles are possible, with the sacrifice of significantly decreased lifespan). What are peoples' experience with these angles? What do you recommend?

I'm going to have a relatively low ride height by notching the front and rear hangers into the frame as to reduce the driveline angles. I would love to hear others' experience on this topic and perhaps even pictures should you be willing to share.

Thanks in advance!

 

Using the stock driveshaft will net you more overall driveshaft angle than using a CV at the transfer case. A standard u joint on either end has more travel unless you go with a custom CV $$$. The likelihood of the angles being perfect for a single u joint on either end are slim anyway. (Remember, you are engineering your own suspension here). Not a big deal unless you plan to drive in 4wd at higher speeds for extended periods of time.

You can bolt the stock shaft to the D44 to Toyota flange you mentioned earlier. No need to swap u joints

What do you mean by acceptable shaft angles? Ultimately you are trying to get the u-joints in phase with each other and get the pinion flange parallel with the t-case flange. Unless you plan to build a sky high monster truck on 44" tires you will likely be fine.

Another note worthy item: If you install the shackle in front of the axle, you can use your stock driveshaft without any other mods, as long as you haven't pushed your axle too far forward. Shackle in the back you WILL need a long slip welded into the driveshaft, no questions about it.

 

Thanks for the reply!

When I say acceptable shaft angles I mean the angle relative to horizontal:



I know with single cardan both the Tcase and pinion flange need to be within 1-3* (even though this changes as the suspension cycles), but I was worried about the angle of the shaft itself (above) being too extreme for the u joints. I'm hoping to stick with the first scenario rather than build a CV because as you said, god damn are they ever dxpenexpe .

Interesting point for a long slip, I hadn't heard anyone mention this before. I've also never seen anyone run a shackle up front in the first gens so kinda ruled it out, even though I've seen numerous pickups run this setup. I've been told it is worse for braking and I do a lot of highway driving to get to my spots so want to maintain some type of roadworthiness.

 

Just build it low, I wouldn’t worry about driveshaft angles that much. Unless you are frequently in 4wd at higher speeds more often than not. Your front end doesn’t spin at all until you lock the hubs.

A friend of mine did a front shackle on his Tacoma and he used his stock driveshaft, no problems. Now he’s going to a 3 link because leafs aren’t nearly as nice as coilovers haha

 

Yup no one has done it:

Works great, no brake drive or weird handling, flexes awesome offroad. I have to drive it 8hrs to anywhere good to wheel and I dont have a trailer, so highway handling was a priority for me as well. The stock IFS shaft bolted right up with no mods. I never run 4wd on the highway so I didnt care about the angles so much, but the flanges are parallel. I would run it forward shackle, you can build it nice and low and you dont have to worry about the axle trying to walk out from under the truck when hill climbing.

 

Pic of the angles I'm running, not the best for rocks but I haven really hit it on anything yet. This is drooped out obviously.

 

You can use a toyota to 1310 conversion u joint...also looks like you need a shorter shaft it's kind of close to the yoke end

 

Were you referencing me? If so with the way my suspension is designed, my driveshaft only slips about an inch. I have right under 2" of uptravel, so it's all droop and works great.