First solder job...help please (resolved)

Hey guys. So I got a rexxing dash cam a while back and decided to upgrad to a new one. The kdlinks R100. kdlinks uses the cig lighter for power. I wanted to use the empty fuse spot under the driver's side for power all the time like I did with the rexxing. To use the parking feature.

Problem is, klinks uses a different power plug than the rexxing so I figured I'd just solder the connector end I need onto the existing wiring harness. It's just a black and red wire so shouldn't be hard...


Now I've never soldered anything before, so went and got a little solder iron and flux etc. to try and figure out how to do this thing.





I electrical taped each wire and reinstalled...plugged it in to the kdlinks and...no power light comes on. Damn.

So I tested it with a multimeter. The voltage seems to constantly vary, it never settles on a single amount. I went back and there's a fuse inline with the harness on the red wire. I think this might be what is causing it but I'm not sure. What do you guys think? Is it the fuse, or just my shitty solder job If I delete the fuse I don't have much wire left to play with on that end.

Or could it be something else?

Pic of the fuse

 

In the future throw some heat shrink on those wires before soldering them, to cover / protect after. Electric tape is caca.

Is the voltage changing after the fuse? Have you tried changing the fuse? It may also be a poor connection between the wire and fuse holder. If you move the wire back and forth at the fuse holder does the voltage change? Check resistance on the fuse, if it's good, then plug everything in and start bending the wire back and forth gently at all connections and when it powers on, or off, youce probably found the weak link.

 

Could be a lot of things. Do you get power to your new fuse, do you get 0 or near 0 resistance between your solder joints, did you tap into a power line that is always on/hot or did you tap into a line that requires the key in accessory.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but do both cams use the same voltage. The mini USB plug (rectangular in pic) is likely 5 volts. Is the other same voltage as well? If they aren't and you switch harnesses things wont work

 

Yeah I learned that one the hard way, heat shrink all the way. Also, I'm cutting back a lot more of the black outer insulation next time, felt cramped the whole time I was doing the job...

No resistance between red solder joint
Power line is the unused always on 12v source on the driver's side fuse block

Hmm, well I know cig lighter is rated for 12v. Unless there's a mini transformer built into the cig attachement, it should be shooting out 12v I would think. I will try this too.

Inline fuse is a glass 3amp, 250v, not blown, and no resistance across it.

ok it'll take me a bit to try all these things out and I'll be in class for the next few hours. Thanks for the quick responses guys. Looking forward to figuring this out.

 

Well shit...it is the wrong voltage after all.

 

You're using rosin core solder yes?

 

Yeah the new cam need s 5v. Your are now giving it 12v.

 

Put it back how it was, solder wire onto to sig lighter plug. Tape it up, then connect those new wires to the truck. Hide the cig plug behind dash somewhere

 

$16 NOCO GC018 15A 14AWG 12V Adapter, Heavy-Duty Cigarette Lighter Plug, and Female Socket with Eyelet Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-A...ette+lighter+female,aps,335&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5


solder back and use something like this tucked up behind the dash panels

 

I think so, but I am using flux on the wires just in case. Not sure what kind of solder came with the kit.

Yep! Well Amazon is selling a kit with the transformer I need with the mini USB for the same price as a transformer by itself so I think I'll just buy the kit. Thanks for your help all and I learned a few things so not a total loss.

 

The rosin core is the flux, ditch that tub of goo.

I doubt they gave you acid core but who knows, that might be a "plumbing kit".

 

AUCEE Dash Cam Hardwire kit, Mini USB Port,DC 12V - 36V to 5V/2A Max Car Charger Cable kit with Fuse,Low Voltage Protection for Dash Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077C1HTPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.-kYBbTY4HY7H

I think this looks like the best option. I wouldn't mind soldering again but this seems easier and costs about the same. Thanks for the help guys

 

What kind of knife is this?

 

It was a gift, called a SOG Kilowatt. It's pretty neat, this was it's first use. I think I'll stick to a dedicated wire stripper/cutter tool though. The 22 guage hole wasn't very good at stripping (a wee too big) and I ended up needing to delicately use the knife to skin the insulation from the actual wires.

 

I always offset the two splices so they are not next to each other but staggered. Less chance of a short and less bulge.