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First time painting. Tips??

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by 45acp, Nov 6, 2014.

  1. Nov 6, 2014 at 12:25 PM
    #1
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Ok, so my grandparents had a fender bender. It was gonna be like $2000 for repairs, but F that. I bought a new bumper cover and fender for less than $250 and paint for ~$100.

    [​IMG]

    I bought the stuff at Napa and they gave me a couple sheets with some very basic instructions. I can't seem to find any decent info online as to what to do here. Plus, the sheets give drying times based on an ambient air temp of 70 degrees F. :rolleyes: We're looking at highs in the 40s this week. I don't know how much that will affect dry times, especially in between coats.

    The fender came pre-primed but the bumper cover is bare plastic. Do I need to prime the bumper cover?
     
  2. Nov 8, 2014 at 6:24 AM
    #2
    ace96

    ace96 Well-Known Member

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    Do you not have a heated area to paint in? I don't think the paint will like 40 degree weather.
     
  3. Nov 8, 2014 at 6:27 AM
    #3
    js312

    js312 Well-Known Member

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    I think there is some sort of clear adhesive you're supposed to use on plastic before paint or primer goes on. Otherwise, the paint won't last long. I believe it's called "Adhesion promoter."

    Otherwise, not sure whether temperature will or will not be a problem.
     
  4. Nov 8, 2014 at 6:37 AM
    #4
    FATPUBUS

    FATPUBUS Well-Known Member

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    Temp that low will kinda make the paint spray "thick" and possibly run. As suggested, for plastic use an adhesion promoter and flex agent. Flex agents will allow the paint to...well, flex and not crack. If u decide to paint in that low of a temp, wetsand between coats with like 600, 800, because you will have alot of orange peel. After clear is done wetsand with 2000 grit, and then buff out. Ive had pretty good experience following those steps
     
  5. Nov 8, 2014 at 7:38 PM
    #5
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Cool, thanks. I actually made a makeshift spray booth with an oil heater to warm it up.
     
  6. Nov 8, 2014 at 7:55 PM
    #6
    cory02taco

    cory02taco Well-Known Member

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    1: don't paint shiny plastic, make sure to rough it up even if it's pre primered.
    2: paint warm. 65-70 degrees minimum.
    3: all that vapor coming off your gun is flammable. Be careful what you heat with.
    4: do a test panel first. Get used to the gun and how steady your hands are.
    5: make sure to leave enough time between coats. I learned the hard way impatience = runs.
    6: if you notice a mistake when the paint is wet, leave it. It's easier to wet sand out a small speck than it is a bunch of small specks. Cheaper too.
    7: make sure to paint the part how it sits on the car. The way silver flows out it can look weird if painted the wrong direction.
    8: have a good respirator. A paper dust mask will not be sufficient.
    9: make sure you've got everything you need before you start, and have it at arms length. If you've got a booth made of painters plastic, dust and other business can stick to it, and if you move the plastic even slightly, that business can end up in your paint. See speck sanding above.

    Good luck!
     
  7. Nov 9, 2014 at 8:58 AM
    #7
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Couple more coats. Seems to be going well so far! :cool:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. Nov 9, 2014 at 9:12 AM
    #8
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Any suggestions on a desiccant dryer for the air compressor? I bought a Harbor Freight one to hold me over until I could find a decent unit. Or is the HF gonna be just as good as the others?
     
  9. Nov 29, 2014 at 9:37 PM
    #9
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Okay, need some help troubleshooting here. :mad: I did plenty of clean/prep before I painted, fender was pre-primed, etc. Paint looked great. Did a couple of coats of clear, then did some wet sanding before another coat. Somehow a little bit peeled off, I tried smoothing it out and before I know it, the whole gawddamn fender is peeling! Paint and all!! :facepalm:

    Not sure where I went wrong. Seems the paint didn't adhere to the primed surface, despite a thorough cleaning with water, alcohol, etc. WTF. :confused:
     
  10. Nov 30, 2014 at 3:53 AM
    #10
    cory02taco

    cory02taco Well-Known Member

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    Did you sand the pre primed part? Paint should be applied to primer within 7 days of initial priming, or it needs to be sanded.
     
  11. Nov 30, 2014 at 4:26 AM
    #11
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    The pre primed area just needs to be scuffed with sand paper or completely sanded and reapplied?
     
  12. Nov 30, 2014 at 4:48 AM
    #12
    cory02taco

    cory02taco Well-Known Member

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    Just scuffed. I usually use 220 or 320 grit depending on the primer. If it was factory primed is sand it with 320, and make sure there are no shiny areas left. Then apply base coat, let it flash off, then clear away.
     
  13. Nov 30, 2014 at 4:51 AM
    #13
    45acp

    45acp [OP] Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Alighty, I'll give it another shot. Thanks for the help. I thought it was the proper cleaning that was primarily responsible for correct adherence.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2014
  14. Nov 30, 2014 at 5:03 AM
    #14
    cory02taco

    cory02taco Well-Known Member

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    No problem. Hope it goes better this time. Painting can be frustrating.
     
  15. Nov 30, 2014 at 5:25 AM
    #15
    vssman

    vssman Rocket Engineer

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    Follow the tech sheets exactly. Make sure not only to have tha air to temp but the parts have to be as well. There is a disposable water trap that screws on to the gun at the air hose connection. They typically come two to a package when I've bought them - cheap insurance for water filtration.
     

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