Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I don't think you can count on the OEM inner CV being a "fuse" to protect the rest of the drive line though.

I know a couple people who broke ADD shafts and/or diffs who's OEM CVs survived just fine.

 

Got sources or photos? I've never heard of anyone breaking a front diff, much less an ARB carrier and only 1 person breaking an ADD.

For them not to be a fuse, whether intentionally by mechanical design or not, you would have to ignore the vastly larger number of CV failures for them not to be.

 

Edit: nevermind that inner CV is fooked.

It appears the CV is fine, just the clamp that holds the inner CV is undone in the photo.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

 

I'll have too look, it was one of our local guys here in the north east broke shafts but not CVs. There are pictures one one of the NE threads. But that incident involved a locker.

I personally saw (and heard) a outer CV and rear diff fail. Inner CV was fine.

The inner CV certainly acts like a fuse, but there are enough dynamics in play that it's not sure thing, and it's such a weak design it certainly fails more often than it protects anything else (or the RCV guys would be breaking lots of shit).

ETA: I'm on the list for these when prices come out, I think a stronger inner CV is a good idea

 

I've broken more outers on my cv than the inner. I'm looking for more strength on steering angles.

 

Not many people running RCVs, and of those that are, the vast majority aren't running hard technical trails consistently. I'm gonna sound like an egotistical asshat, but I put more use on my RCVs in a year than most will before they part out or sell their truck.

 

That's the general consensus from what I've seen in person and from photos/reports. Seems like 2nd gen CVs usually break at the birfield, usually the cage or the shaft/splines that go through the wheel bearing. Tripod joint failures happen, but are comparatively uncommon.

 

I'll vouch for your wheeling miles since I'm there for most of them. With that said, get back in the garage and get your shit running so we can keep up the tradition of doing stupid trails on IFS.

 

Keeping an eye on this to see if his steering solution will work better than what I'm planning for the 40s.

 

Got any updates on here about your numerous projects? I’ve only seen it on the gram

 

You guys ever do that one really hard trail?

 

Nope, just do the Instagram stories every once in a while. Feels like it takes too much time to get on here and make update posts, most stuff has already been done and documented on here in some way or another.

Naw, hard trails are too hard. We prefer the easy stuff like the Rubicon

 

That was a pretty easy one.

 

Question for the offroad gurus in the thread: What is it that breaks when the rack and pinion fails? So much talk of broken racks, weak racks, flexing, enhancements to strength, Tundra, etc. I saw the teaser picture from @81Trekker, with a reinforcement to the ends where the inner tie rods attach. Is the main culprit side loading when the suspension is fully up or down, causing massive perpendicular side load on the rack which acts like a larger lever when turning and therefore extended? Where does it actually fail? Skip a tooth, physically break internally or bend at the shaft, or is it just tie rod related?

Today I found out a buddies rack broke on at trip this weekend. The strap on the passenger side that holds the bushing onto the rack broke off. Solution was to ratchet strap it back down and limp home. Questioning what I can reasonably do to help reduce changes of having a problem on mine. About to do a whole front end rebuild, using the JD Fab LCA brackets, and bunches of other components in front suspension and steering.

My last trip out I came home with steering wheel at 1 O'clock position, not sure if I knocked the alignment out or what. Don't see anything bent yet. Not willing to go with a Tundra or multi thousand dollar aftermarket steering solution at this point, but do want to take reasonable steps to reduce risks if I can. Thanks in advance.

 

Seals was my main culprit. I have skipped a few teeth on one. And my biggest failure was bending the rod and breaking a few teeth on the rack

 

Has anyone tried those emf uniballs on these dirt king lowers?

 

They don’t have a taper that works with the lower Tacoma spindle... I’m having some made as we speak

 

Am I too late to enter the damage challenge? Noticed this crawling under the truck today.



I guess 2.5 years of smashing through dirtbike whoops finally caught up to me. This was the only thing I didn’t like about the dirt king kit. But now it’s nice and double shear as it should be.

 

Are you saying that because it double sheared

 

so the misalignment spacers couldn't be cut down to work? seems like there are a lot of people with the old style dirt king and total chaos lowers that would benefit from these.