Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

No, it's not all that fun. Looks good though!

 

That turned out really nice though!

 

if you’re really only looking for trail spares to plug the holes, you could cut the outer joint closer to the actual stub shaft and completely abandon the axle and outer joint components as a whole. Making for a shorter storage solution. I would do the same for the inner, shorten it as much as possible.

 

Yes I was thinking about this too. I have to send my RCV's back for re-boot (they aren't as easy to do a boot swap as OEM axles, and they will do it for barely more than the cost of the boots and grease, with full inspection, etc - but I have to pay shipping of course). I could simply put in a dummy axle for the time when the RCVs are out. But what got me wanting stubs only, is that if I for some reason grenade my front diff (not too worried about breaking RCV obviously), then I could simply make sure the ADD is not engaged, so the passenger wheel won't turn the diff, and put in the stubs on the drivers side, so it won't turn the diff, and if you don't engage 4wd, then the diff won't turn and you could in theory drive out in 2wd with a blown up front diff. Hopefully all of you agree with this logic. In that case, yes cutting for smaller and lighter storage makes sense.

 

I was just more concerned with the Jd fab fenders. It sits higher up. My oem booster is against one portion of it.

 

Just cut out the obstruction. It’s minor compared to all the other shit you’re doing to your truck. “Concerned”….LOL

 

You know I will end up cutting around and having Ze redo it. Lol. Yeah. Not so much concerned. Just how much will I have to cut. But if manual brakes can work out, hey I don’t have to cut anything.

 

Manual brakes on a Tacoma will be a science project. It’s one thing if you have a full shop and all the skills but trying to DIY in your garage will be nothing but an expensive headache

 

You guys do know that it is stupid easy to install an ABS kill switch right ?

 

Getting rid of ABS completely is stupid easy too. Mine is all gone now.

 

Who was talking about ABS here?

 

Your pic really made it sink in. A couple of tee’s, a proportioning valve and a few misc fittings and hard lines. Did you just play with the proportioning valve until you were happy with the feel? I’m looking forward to your thread on it.

 

Yup just drove about 60 mph slammed the brakes…and kept adjusting till I got all 4 wheels to skid at the same time. Then went in a turn so the rear locks up before the front. Not sure if that’s correct but I like the feel.

 

Yup I know but not interrupting a wire easy. I just think it's a bitch sketch for a truck that still sees pavement

 

isn't that part of all of this discussion of manual brakes ? ie: gut the current system and ABS module and go old school = pedal - non E booster - master - lines - calipers

 

No doubt it’s not a one size fits all deal and that makes it a little tricky. But I do think it’s a worth while science experiment for those willing to devote the time and energy.

 

I don’t think we were specifically talking about abs related portions, more so boosted vs manual brakes. Keeping ABS would be a discussion if somebody tackled manual brakes. Could technically still plumb in the abs unit from a manual powered MC, I wouldn’t if you were going to go through the trouble already to go manual.

Like @81Trekker said, it would be a science project to get the right pedal ratio and throw under the dash that worked for the brakes yet fit in there like this over complicated mess.

I will most likely still go with tundra booster and MC. I don’t have the resources to DIY full manual brakes but I’m just curious on the subject.
I am planning to size the system along side of the tundra specifications if I use the tundra MC/Booster. The oem Tundra brake caliper piston area is 6.28 sq in up front and 2.97 sq in the rear. I’ll have to order calipers up front that best match this, I just need to verify the pedal ratios between the two beforehand to make sure the working pressures aren’t crazy mismatched if I use similar sized caliper areas.


I’m probably putting in way too much thought into it but still interested to learn more about it anyhow.

 

Arnt you old like me??? We didnt need no ABS back in the day. ABS has been more of a problem on the road for me than helpful. Ive had VSC/ABS kick in on me the bottom of the 270 degree freeway onramps on more than 1 occasion almost sending me into traffic because it throws you out of the turn. But anyways...get off my lawn with this ABS nonsense...we have enough nannies in this life these days.

 

Pedal ratio is the easy part imo. If you don’t want to use a ton of input energy the 6:1 range is perfect. Yes you get more pedal travel but the leverage is better. A 5:1 pedal will put in 500lbs of pressure at the rod with 100lbs of force, a 6:1 would be 600lbs. The trickiest part is getting the master cylinders right. But that’s more or less based off of piston surface area. And wilwood is great at assisting in that department if you know all of your numbers already. It really isn’t rocket science. IMO the hardest part of the whole deal would be packaging it all under the dash.

I guess the cool part of doing a setup like this is you can make it exactly how you want it. Throw a tundra booster and master in, you get what you get. Also, running dual masters would allow you to setup a brake bias system for in cab adjusting.

Just so much cool shit you can do with these manual setups.

 

Started my install thread for the JDfab floater axle assembly here

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jdfabrication-full-float-ford-9-inch-axle-install.771924/

Its only part way done....got sick of typing and posting pics...i'll finish it before the weekend is over.