Fitting a large tweet or coaxial in the dash(3rd gen) - who's done it?

What are you using for a DSP?

 

Came across this in this discussion: https://www.diymobileaudio.com/foru...n/362993-new-2-5-wide-band-morel-ccwr254.html

Re: New 2.5" Wide band from Morel: CCWR254
"I have mine crossed at 400 Hz.with no baffle or enclosure. They are part of a three way setup in the dash of my pickup. They do not sound strained at all. I have the low pass set at 10,000 Hz. I did not like the sound of the treble so I think a tweeter is a must."

Please lets us know if you also find this to be true.

 

Helix p six mk2, going to use for the first time on Saturday. I had a twk 88, was able to get it sounding decent with other speakers, so i think i am ready for the helix software.

 

I saw this as well, that's why I'm thinking of doing a 3-way active front.

 

I got the same feedback from Andy. Indeed a good location. I got them crossed @ 400/7k and they do just fine there with no pods.

I almost went with the GB60's, but since the SI can be crossed a bit higher and went with the GS690s only to be disappointed. Don't get me wrong, they sound awesome but lack the output to match 2 SIs. So I went with the ZR monsters....

 

The SI's were high on my list, but the support and reviews of the frogs led me to pull the trigger on the gb60s. I will create a post when the install is done, hopefully it doesnt take too long to tune.

 

He has his number on his profile here. It’s best to call him as he doesn’t get on here very much

 

So I swapped out the tweeters that came with the 692 kit to the CCWR254 kit just now. I will say is they are not aesthetically pleasing but they sound fantastic. There's definitely a difference in the sound and perhaps a person that liked a lot of high-end would add tweeters to it as well. I feel as though I'm going to have to drive with these for a week or two to decide how much further I go.

 

Very nice!! I had a wideband setup for a while several years ago (fontek fr88ex) and I didn't miss a tweeter at all. Good job on the adapters, looks great.

 

That was fun. I got a set from Amazon that were 2" opening, and just happened to have a 2-1/4" hole saw. Kind of went a little close on one side.

However, because of the thickness of the adapter, the 10mm bolts closest to the windshield make the tweeter cover pop up a little (does not fit flush). I think I may do the steel instead to get it a bit lower.

 

What about countersinking that bolt hole just a bit, just enough to sink the bolt down enough to clear it? I started with 1/4" ABS and went with steel to lower the profile even more. You may be able to make it work.

 

This is a good idea. I bet I can get my hands on some come headed hex screws that'll fit. Just need to rip it back apart to get at one to see what spec/size it is...

 

I used M8x1.25

Around 1/2 long should be plenty.

 

After careful review, as well as listening to the fronts only, I've decided I'm going to focus on a front stage. More to follow.

 

Are you running those with the supplied 150uF capacitor then? No additional LPF on the woofer?

 

No, because I used the existing passive cross over from the 692 kit (2800hz crossover point for tweet).

I'm looking into blowing everything up and going active in the front.

 

When I went full active, I used some left over speed wire and made 2 mirrored harnesses and covered them in tesa tape. Made switching to full active super easy because after they were installed, didnt have to cut up any factory harness. While both left and right are the same color wires, I have each harness labeled. Then I put colored tape on each set of RCA cables, on the DSP and each amp to match the color that should be going into it.



Each harness has a pair of wires from the door woofers, door tweeters, the dash mids and the rear speakers going all the way to behind the rear seats.

 

I'm about 85% there. Just need to run wires for third set of speakers.

I can make this simple by

Buying an 8 channel DSP amp ($$$$$__)

Selling the arc audio and rear speakers....

 

I got a audio control dm810 10 channel dsp and its great.

Something to keep in mind when going full active in the front is that you will need 10 channels to run all the speakers (unless you get rid of rear speakers)
1-2 tweeters
3-4 mids
5-6 woofers
7-8 rear speakers
9-10 subwoofer

This is what kept me from getting a 8 channel. Sure you can run the subwoofer off the headunits sub output, or its own set of inputs, but its nice to be able to control all the speakers and the sub from the DSP. You can set crossovers, roll offs, time alignment if you wanted, even set the subwoofer to get its signal from a mix of all the audio signals.

I put my dsp under the drivers seat on a rack I made that keeps it up off the floor and way from the floor vents.

 

I'm thinking of getting rid of the rears. I'm looking at this:

https://creativeaudio.net/xd800-8v2...3jTo430uA69Y2oeiS2oJ5pGdofCLMH6hoCR1wQAvD_BwE
With this
https://www.parts-express.com/dayto...05tyalOI1Uyf0Qu4nx7kQ_WvRWd9rzEaAq9SEALw_wcB#!

Or just going strait to this

https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/201733725304