Fitting OTRATTW Contura V/Carling in stock switch location

Those with manual trannies just go overhead. You can try to work switches in around the cupholders but then you get the joy of accidentally turning on your front locker while doing 70 on the interstate when attempting to set your morning coffee down.

Another option for guys with autos...









I have since added another two switches on either side of the round interior light switch just in front of my CB mic in this last picture. One will be for rock lights. The other...to be determined. I don't need it, but I went ahead and put it in while I had everything torn apart just for symmetry.

 

I have all lights and a compressor (with a pressure cutoff switch) on my switches. Manual guys gotta be careful because they should be going crawlbox and thus have the ADD, etc. wired in.

Also, my friends know fucking better than to flip mystery switches when catching a ride. They've been lectured

 

I've got that tray packed with change and my sunglasses I have an SR5 though, lots of locations to the left of the steering wheel. Base models do have some perks!

 

If I could do it over I'd get an SR5 and build it, knowing what I know now about the e-locker.

 

Nice write up. Ill be using this next week to do my lights. Can I ask how you wired your factory fogs up to the aftermarket switch please

 

Very clean. Could pass for stock

 

Very nice. I ended up going with red/red for my lights. I would have gone red/amber but they were out of amber.

 

Thanks guys. Customer service was impressive. Called and told him what I wanted, he sent an email with pics of a couple of the switches not listed on the website, and a week later they showed up operating as requested.

 

I'll say. They were very helpful and friendly. They care even making me a switch they don't offer on the website

 

Thanks! Just trying to give a little back to the forum.

As for wiring the factory fogs to aftermarket switch: I did not have fog lights installed from the factory. My 4 cylinder SR5 has the dashboard wiring harness for them, but that's it, I bought used factory fog lights and ran my own wires to them. But I still think I can help.

The second and third picture below shows the plug that goes into your factory fog light switch. I used only the "top" two wires in the picture to power & dim the light inside the OTRATTW switch; I think you will use all four, but you will have to figure out which of the "bottom" two wires is power (when headlights are on), and which goes to the factory fog light relay.

First of all, my advice only applies to OTRATTW switches that come with the wiring diagram that looks like this (ignore the little hand drawn diagram in the photo):




Pin #3 to the relay that powers your lights. That should be one of the two "bottom" wires in the factory plug.

Pin #6 goes to ground, any ground, that is close and reliable.

Pin #2 goes to your FUSED power source; you should find one of the "bottom" two wires in the factory fogs will be a good source.

Pins #7 and #8 are for the upper LED inside the switch. In my opinion, you paid good money to have switches that look as good as factory ones, so you might as well go through the trouble of making them operate as good as factory ones. That means tapping into the dimmer controlled light circuit for the dashboard. Using that circuit will make your new switches illuminate when your parking lights are on and dim when you dim the dash lights. I used the top two pins of the fog light plug pictured below:


Sorry for the out of focus picture. I've forgotten which pins of this plug is positive and which is negative; but that is easy to figure out with a voltage tester, test light or maybe someone else will chime in. I believe the top one is positive the second is negative, but I'm just not sure of myself. You need to tap both the negative AND positive from this plug for pins #7 & 8. Do NOT use a ground for the negative. You can splice into these wires, tap them, back probe the plug or you can do what I did with two blade connectors:


I hope what I've written & pictured so far makes sense and helps you out.

When installing new accessories and switches there are other sources of power. My fuse box has a couple of empty fuses to choose from (yours may not). Since I wanted my rear lights, fog lights and HID lights to turn off if the parking lights turned off, I tapped a headlight circuit:


But if you wanted the accessory to turn off whenever the ignition is off you could tap into:


I would only use these circuits to trigger a relay, not to power the accessory itself.

 

Well mine shipped yesterday so this weekend I'll be wiring up the fog lights. I think I'm gonna totally bypass the factory wiring

 

I hope no one minds me putting this here. I knew I was going to have more than two switches down the line so I made a plate and put mine in the cubby with a six bank. I was going to use four screws to hold it in but the way it sits I don't need them. Currently I just have my ARB oba installed and waiting for my light bar to get here. The switches are green lower and amber upper.

 

Its exactly what I did. When I end up ordering a new set of fogs all I have to do is run the single wire through the cab to the switch from the relay

 

Are there any switches that would fit in the factory blanks next to the 12-volt outlets? These are the only two factory switch locations not used in my 2013 OR, and I don't want to start adding custom pannels while they are unused.

 

I'm also curious on this. I want to do the console mod and mount my switch here.

 

From the very first page of the very first link on the original post. . .

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/li...rattw-switched-fit-2012-taco.html#post5404766

 

Oops. Sorry. Missed it.
Comes from thread search overload.

Thanks.

 

sub'd for later.

 

The link doesn't work. Nothing other than TundraPart.com's homepage works.