Flapping sub noise.

I pulled the speaker out and the polyfill is smashed up against the back with the basket imprinted on it so i think it may be hitting the back of the box.

Anyone who has the ********* box with id10 sub how did you seal your speaker to the box. did you need to space it out a little?

 

A capacitor stores power and is able to release it in bursts when needed, unlike an alternator. The capacitor acts like a gall bladder in the body - when you have blood loss, your marrow makes more blood but at a steady and slow rate. The gall bladder is a backup storage for quick release of extra cells to compensate for the loss.

I have also run very high wattage amps in various vehicles without any lights dimming, however I was bottoming out subs (with perfectly matched RMS coming from high end amps) and eliminated the bottoming by adding capacitance. It's nice to have the extra kick when the alternator just can't keep up when you're really hitting the low frequencies on high power subs.

Just wanted to throw this out there, as I have had personal success adding capacitors to strong sound systems that provide crazy deep lows.

 

And that could be another cause

 

Right, that's why I commented about how quickly it can discharge that power. Unless you're running a REALLY incredible amount of power or amazingly inefficient amps you really wont net a benefit from one. The stock battery and alternator are more than capable for the majority of the things people run. And it also helps that newer amplifier technology utilizes MULTIPLE capacitors INSIDE the amp itself.

I suppose to say they're USELESS is an exaggeration. But the application and scope of their use is very limited. You can't just throw one on a system and expect things to get better.

 

I would stick with useless, but that seems like a reasonable compromise...

What does this mean? Are you suggesting that your amps were making enough power to bottom out the sub, but when you added more current to the amp (with no other changes) it stopped the subs from bottoming out?

Also, by "perfectly matched RMS coming from high end amps" do you mean a sub rated at 1000w and an amp rated at 1000w were matched up, and they were not flea market "1000w"?

Was the box sealed or ported? Were the notes you were bottoming on below or above the tuning frequency? Was there a subsonic filter in place? Was the box bigger or smaller than "optimum" for the sub?

Would you mind listing the gear, setup, box, music, etc? Seems like an odd thing to happen, but I would like to know more about the situation.

Seems like a better/bigger battery, better wiring/grounding, and maybe a box more suited to the music you were listening to would be a better solution?

 

Hey guys,

So I checked my sub and no scratchy sounds from pushing cone down and multi-meter showed correct ohm's so sub did not seem blown.

Bought some closed cell stick on weather stripping and re-mounted sub. I also turned down my gain back to normal and subwoofer does not flap anymore, however it seems my amp can not push the sub cleanly to it's max potential.
So for anyone doing searches out there looks like my id10v3 in sealed enclosure will need more power for max potential. My amp bridged (pioneer gm9500) was feeding it 200rms, but who knows how much of that rms was clean. I am going to bite the bullet and by a bigger cleaner amp and will let you all know.
Thanks for your replys.

 

Keep in mind this was 6 years ago with equipment that was already just over a year old. That Kicker sub would not die and I still have it in storage. For an extra $100, the cap did what I needed it to do. Just wanted to share my experience.