Fog Light Relay

I got my fog lights from BLOODYMARY and installed them last night. I have now found out that I need the relay. The dealer wants $57 for it. I have called a few auto parts stores with no luck. Does anyone know of a place to get one at a reasonable price?

Bill

 

Radio shack or auto parts store. It doesn't have to be an exact Toyota relay. It just needs to be the right voltage and amperage.

 

There's a post in the Towing forum that mentions the backup light relay for the towing package is the same as the fog light relay, and gives an AutoZone part (Duralast # 41-5465) that is comparable. Might be worth looking for.

 

I will try that. Thanks

 

Got a relay at Oreilly's auto parts. Lights work great.

 

(THREAD RESURRECTION)

So I had a guy add an aftermarket (OEM Replica) kit to my 2012 that came without fogs (but was pre-wired). Driver side fog got water inside so I replaced with an OEM takeoff fog, but they are still not working. I checked all the fuses, and the swith lights up. I am thinking maybe the relay burned out... would the relay be mounted in the fuse box under the hood? Any clues to which one it is?

 

If it was all pre-wired, then the relay should be underhood. I think it moved around between '12 and '14 (mine is in a small, secondary underhood fusebox). Assuming it's underhood and pre-wired, its position should be labeled (inside of fuse box). You can pull it and test it with a 12V battery (I keep a couple of serviceable home alarm backup batteries around for testing 12V stuff). In a pinch you can connect a (9V and a couple of AA's in series as your power source.

When you apply power to the relay (+12VDC to terminal 86, ground to terminal 85), does it click? If no click, toss the relay.

If it does click, put a meter on continuity check between terminal 30 and terminal 87. You should have continuity between 30 & 87 while you are energizing terminals 86 & 85. If click, but no continuity, toss the relay.

Relays do burn out, but if a new one burns out soon, then you have other problems (corroded terminals in the fuse box, loose terminal connection, etc.)

 

@obscurotron Thanks for the tips and troubleshooting advice. I do have a meter and an extra 12V marine battery so I'll check it out tonight.

 

Like so...

 

@caribe makaira I don't have that small relay box under my hood-- just the large fuse/relay box. Maybe because my '12 is a base model and has no 120V inverter, etc.?

 

So the kit was pre-wired or the truck?

 

The truck definitely had the wires tucked up under the bumper, according to my buddy that installed it. He is now deployed overseas and not answering my questions about the relay, LOL.
He used the switch and the actual foglamps/bulbs from the kit. Now wondering if the relay is in-line?

 

I'm pretty sure that the 4cyl trucks were not pre-wired. But in some cases the pre-wiring did not include relays.
In my 07 V6 the fog light relay is in the main fuse tray

 

See if you have this...

 

Great pictures! Will check it out.

 

Yeah, I think the 13's or 14's started the smaller 2nd fuse/relay box under the hood. I don't think my '12 had it, either (and I did have the 120V outlet)

The relay should then be in the big fuse box, aft of the battery.

 

Thanks to all who responded so far.
I had some time last night and checked everything out. The relay circled in the above pics doesn't exist in my truck, not having fogs from the factory.

Obviously, my truck was NOT prewired, the wiring harness came from the cheap kit I bought online. He pulled the power per the kit instructions, from a wiretap to the small fuse panel behind the hinged door/pocket in the driver's compartment. The harness has it's own relay tucked in there, as well as an inline fuse that is fine/not burned out. Seems like the relay clicks when I depress the switch (also installed from the kit), and the switch lights up as it should.

So, with all that knowledge, the lights still don't work. I've tried two sets of bulbs. Not sure where to go from here, except to rip everything out and start over with a new kit/harness.

 

I've had cheap Chinesium relays last about 12 seconds before. They keep clicking, but they either arc and destroy their contacts pretty quickly, or the internal connections on the output terminals is shitty.

Last test I would do us hook up the meter to the load side of the relay, push the button, and see if you get continuity. Then do it again, but testing for voltage. If both of those tests are OK, either chase down the wiring from the load side to the lights, or strip out the whole mess and make your own harness. Could also be shitty butt connectors or terminals further down the line, too. PITA this stuff is, which is why I try to build my own harnesses when time permits.

 

@obscurotron I should be able to cut some zipties and check the relay. If it is bad, I'll check Amazon for the P/N