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Frame Replacement - Lessons Learned?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by NumNutz, Dec 11, 2018.

  1. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:19 PM
    #1
    NumNutz

    NumNutz [OP] One of the original 7928

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    Hey guys and gals,

    I did a search and couldn't really find what I was looking for. There are plenty of posts asking "Will my frame be covered for replacement?" That's not what I'm asking. I'm pretty confident mine will qualify. My question is, from those who have gone through the process, what were your lessons learned? What would you do differently? What would you do again? What else should I have replaced when they replace the frame? Things like that. I'll take any and all advice.

    Thanks.

    IMG_2399.jpg
     
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  2. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:33 PM
    #2
    Blockhead

    Blockhead Well-Known Member

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  3. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:37 PM
    #3
    JdevTac

    JdevTac Bawnjourno

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    E4434046-8DA3-46EE-B790-913DE67B6388.jpg
     
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  4. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:37 PM
    #4
    hyper15125

    hyper15125 Headlight Retrofitting Hobbyist Vendor

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  5. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:42 PM
    #5
    NumNutz

    NumNutz [OP] One of the original 7928

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    While everyone closes their mouths and wipes up their drool...

    Would you cover the new frame in POR-15 or some other type of paint before the install?
    Would you buy a poly bushing kit and have all the bushings replaced on the vehicle?
    A lot of my hangars like for the driveshaft have a significant amount of rust as well, can those be covered for replacement as well?
     
  6. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:46 PM
    #6
    Lux

    Lux @jamesgrouss

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    I believe when they swap a frame at toyota you get crossmembers, lower control arms, and leaf springs. I would just put several coats of paint and keep on top of it with fluid film every year (especially the inside).
     
  7. Dec 11, 2018 at 2:55 PM
    #7
    NumNutz

    NumNutz [OP] One of the original 7928

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    Okay that's good to know. If the dealership let me, I feel like doing a coat of POR-15 could go a long way in terms of longevity
     
  8. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:03 PM
    #8
    TireFire

    TireFire Superunknown Member

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    First off I seriously doubt they would let you!!
    Second, POR 15 doesn't adhere to smooth surfaces like a new frame with mint factory paint. You would need to substantially prep it.
    Third, POR 15 is not UV resistant so you would need to put topcoat over it.

    I would just buy new OEM rubber bushings for the body (not the poly type cuz it will ride like shit) and a new steering rack and labor will be free as per of the swap. Maybe a new exhaust depending on the condition of yours.
    Maybe new UCAs

    Then when you get it back inspect and test everything really well (impatient techs cut wires, kink harnesses, etc.) and then fluid it film it immediately. Reapply once a year in the fall before they start poisoning your roads with that liquid corrosion scheisse
     
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  9. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:13 PM
    #9
    JdevTac

    JdevTac Bawnjourno

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    Like what was already said, POR15 is not the answer. It is a last ditch protectant for stuff that is already rusted. It can be used in other applications of course but on top of frame paint isn’t going to work even if you wanted it to. It will just peel off in sheets.

    You need a fluid protectant such as fluid film or corrosion X, boeshield, Amsoil HDMP (actually dries to a matte finish), CRC stuff or whatever floats your boat. Coat the frame inside and out. The rest is regular rinsing in the winter if your roads get salt, and if in your case, the coast is where you call home, then regular rinsing in general since your truck is exposed to the salt air, and/or if you drive on the beach.

    Then when your anti-rust coat starts becoming rinsed off, you reapply.

    Edit: ALSO, grease or hit the spare tire carrier with rust protectant.

    When I treated my truck I also did my diffs.
     
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  10. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:14 PM
    #10
    vwbuggsy

    vwbuggsy Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that's rough!

    Personally, i feel like POR 15 is way over rated. Any coating you put over top of another coating is only as good as the weakest link in the chain anyway, whatever is underneath it. POR is UV sensitive, and it's way to expensive for use as a topcoat on an already coated frame.

    I restore old VW bugs and buses. I've done that for over 20 years. I've used POR 15. It has its place and it's a good product. Check out the prep instructions on POR 15 before you use it and if you expect it to work well, follow them exactly. If you don't, it can peel off in huge sheets.
    https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Technical-Information_ep_62.html

    "POR-15 is a rust-preventive paint designed for application directly on rusted or seasoned metal surfaces."
    POR is supposed to go on metal, rusty or roughed up, NOT over any kind of paint or primer.

    As a top-coat over a new already coated frame, I'd say fluid film, boiled linseed oil, or some other non-permanent thing like that. If you really want another paint top-coat, for a frame, I'd go with plain old rustoleum. People diss rustoleum but it's a damn good product.

    The only way I'd use POR is on bare metal. Even then, I prefer masterseries "stops rust forever" primer then a top coat (rustoleum for underbody, quality auto paints for the stuff you look at).

    Best of luck!
     
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  11. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:29 PM
    #11
    NumNutz

    NumNutz [OP] One of the original 7928

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    Did you go through a frame replacement? You seem fairly knowledgeable. I haven't been able to find an official document of what is covered under the replacement.

    I have Total Chaos alignment tabs and limiting strap connectors welded to the frame and LCAs. Will they cover the cost of replacing those?
     
  12. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:35 PM
    #12
    TireFire

    TireFire Superunknown Member

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    No they won't
     
  13. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:52 PM
    #13
    NumNutz

    NumNutz [OP] One of the original 7928

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    Okay thanks.

    I need a new rack and pinion that I've been putting off. I'm thinking about trying to get a lot of little tasks done while the take is in pieces.
     
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  14. Dec 11, 2018 at 3:59 PM
    #14
    INBONESTRYKER

    INBONESTRYKER Well-Known Member

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    Replace the steel brake lines even if you have to pay for them.
     
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  15. Dec 11, 2018 at 4:23 PM
    #15
    Failure2Comply

    Failure2Comply Old HVACR Tech

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    1) Replace serpentine belt AND idler pulley.
    2) If shocks are older, replace them.
    3) Mention to them that you want them to verify ALL wiring harnesses before putting the body back on, I mysteriously had a wire damaged that signaled "Park/Neutral" to go into 4 Low.
    4) Replace motor mounts if higher mileage on vehicle.
     
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  16. Dec 11, 2018 at 4:26 PM
    #16
    Failure2Comply

    Failure2Comply Old HVACR Tech

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    Yes, they had my truck for five months! New frame, went from a three leaf pack to a four leaf pack. All new brake lines and lower control arms. Lousy powder coating on my frame, already has signs of rust, but it is new and it is very nice having a new frame under a 2005 truck. I do not think most other manufacturers would cover a truck of that age.
     
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  17. Dec 11, 2018 at 5:10 PM
    #17
    SWM

    SWM Well-Known Member

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    I should have had the shocks done at the same time.

    be prepared to wait... some get it done in 3 days, mine was a few months. First they got the wrong frame, then the right frame but the wrong main harness. Then they broke the spiral cable

    They covered the rental but I had insurance on it which got pricey in the end. happy to have the frame though! cost them more to do the work than I paid for the truck used.
     
  18. Dec 11, 2018 at 5:55 PM
    #18
    DLillest

    DLillest Well-Known Member

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    I am curious as well what to ask for before the swap. I brought mine in this afternoon, its supposed to get done by friday.

    Only issues I have noticed with the truck so far is the hand brake stopped working. I may have them replace that while they are doing the work.
     
  19. Dec 11, 2018 at 6:14 PM
    #19
    NumNutz

    NumNutz [OP] One of the original 7928

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    Okay thanks guys.

    So:
    1. New brake lines (great idea) - To include the rear axle lines and emergency brake line
    2. Ensure the wiring harness is squared away, to include:
    • Shifting into 4wd, appropriate lights come on, locker (I have a sport, but for future viewers), gears shift appropriately
    3. Funny story, my serpentine belt snapped today. I think my water pump may be seized up so I'll be having the truck towed to Toyota, but yes I'll get that replaced as well as the idler pulley
    4. OEM bushings - what other bushings besides the body mounts?
    5. Replace motor mounts - should I go with solid ones or just OEM?
    6. Lower Control Arms
    7. New rack and pinion to include inner and outer tie rods - should be free based on the terms and conditions of the recall?
    8. Trailer hitch
    9. Spare tire
    10. Repaint/rust protection for the underbody of the truck?
    11. Steering intermediate shaft
    12. Carrier bearing
    13. Re-paint the leaf springs

    What other great ideas do you guys have? I really appreciate the help and advise.
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2018
  20. Dec 11, 2018 at 6:16 PM
    #20
    Mad4268

    Mad4268 Active Member

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    Just picked my truck up yesterday after being in the dealership for about a month and a half for frame replacement. They called the day the frame came in and said they had the truck taken apart and usually at that stage the techs have a list of parts they would recommend replacing at that time because labor would be free. They said mine had a clean bill of health and no recommendations on other parts to replace, kind of surprising. I was expecting to get nickel and dimed. They also said if I wanted anything aftermarket installed they would do it with no labor charge also.

    I just stuck with everything covered under the replacement. Traded in my rental, picked my truck up and walked out with a $0 bill.

    I have only noticed two minor issues so far. One was the shifter knob was crooked which I straightened out and the other that I haven’t looked into yet is that the E brake is a little stiff when first twisting to release.

    Overall it was a pretty pleasant experience. Based on reading other posts on here it seems to vary dramatically from dealer to dealer.
     
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