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Frame Rust: Salvageable?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by CarolinaComa25, Dec 31, 2018.

  1. Dec 31, 2018 at 9:20 PM
    #1
    CarolinaComa25

    CarolinaComa25 [OP] New Member

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    To start, I know this is terrible rust and I should not have let it get this bad. Please no bashing.

    Has anyone ever had frame rust this bad and been able to repair it? I've been told a few different things: swap entire frame, cut and replace rear half, patch and reinforce. Suggestions?

    Most concerning is where these pics are taken. These are driver and passenger side leaf spring mounts, lot of stress here and needs attention.[​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. Dec 31, 2018 at 9:25 PM
    #2
    tony2018

    tony2018 Well-Known Member

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    Is the entire frame this way? There's a company that sells freshly made sections of the frame. Can possibly make a whole new frame from it.
     
  3. Dec 31, 2018 at 9:27 PM
    #3
    CarolinaComa25

    CarolinaComa25 [OP] New Member

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    This is the only section this bad, there is some rust spreading up towards the engine. Do you have a link?
     
  4. Dec 31, 2018 at 10:46 PM
    #4
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 American Auto Horns

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    Oh god, put it out of its misery.

    Personally I wouldn’t bother with patching. I would buy a new frame from out in the West and transfer everything over.
     
  5. Dec 31, 2018 at 10:54 PM
    #5
    DW85

    DW85 Dude.....

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    With rust that bad I would say find a replacement frame. By the time you start patching you will most likely end up replacing so much that a new frame would be cheaper/easier. I see them regularly on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace in my area.
     
    BartMaster1234 likes this.
  6. Dec 31, 2018 at 11:01 PM
    #6
    RonJon31

    RonJon31 Well-Known Member

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    If this is the only section bad weld patches in common problem areas and the places with holes, invest in por 15 and Eastwood internal frame coating. Do prep work extremely well too. If you do this it can be saved. Lots of people are too afraid of rust but it can be fought
     
  7. Dec 31, 2018 at 11:36 PM
    #7
    970btu

    970btu Well-Known Member

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    OME, SPC UCA, ARB w/warn 10K winch, TG Rock Defense Rear, Marlin Clutch, Custom hi clearance under bed spare mount. 285/75/16. A ton of repairs done and a list up to come modifications.
    This guy is in Banner Elk, NC his was stolen and they rolled it. It has had the frame replaced. I got a price from him for the whole truck minus the flat bed and it was a good price.

    There is some places here that you can get a clean frame for less than $500 ONe guy was selling a 4x4 rolling frame minus the rear axle, but included entire front suspension, brake lines flue lines wiring and all for $500

    What I did was used these as I had time and afford https://www.autorust.com/product-category/toyota/tacoma-xtracab-4wd/
    It worked and it worked well. I kept finding more and had to do another section, and another and another until now I have a new frame basically caped over my old one.

    By the time I took the bed off I had this great idea to cut the back off and weld a new rear section on and used the old frame to box it in. WOW dont do that. Boxing the frame is one thing, but cutting one and re-welding is another. Now befor I get bashed, I used 1/4 plate on the inside, stair stepped it, and used the safe-t-caps over all those welds too. its stronger than it was new and heavier with all the extra steel. The problem is getting it perfectly aligned. just a little bit of welding is enough heat to throw it all out of alignment again. I had measurements, cross measurements and a ton of jigs I made and come along, straps, cables and chains to hold everything perfectly in place. I did it, but WOW that was way to much work. Im good at welding but that weekend project turned into over a month of work, after work and 3 day weekends working day break to 11pm every night.

    If I had it to do over again I would have done a frame swap. It is not nearly as bad as it sounds. there are some great videos on how people do it without pulling the engine.
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2018
  8. Dec 31, 2018 at 11:51 PM
    #8
    970btu

    970btu Well-Known Member

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    20180319_111115.jpg 20180319_181345.jpg 20180401_180220.jpg 20180401_180232.jpg

    20180401_121940.jpg

    The rest did not look bad at all. This is what itlooked like after a ball pen hammer. The truth is underneath.
    Also these where taken befor the welding was complete
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2019
  9. Jan 1, 2019 at 12:07 AM
    #9
    970btu

    970btu Well-Known Member

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    OME, SPC UCA, ARB w/warn 10K winch, TG Rock Defense Rear, Marlin Clutch, Custom hi clearance under bed spare mount. 285/75/16. A ton of repairs done and a list up to come modifications.
    Here you can see where the po tried to repair it. I ended up cuttng all that junk out.

    20181026_134504.jpg
    20181027_103159.jpg
    20181027_125728.jpg
    20181027_131837.jpg
    20181027_183405.jpg
    20181104_221125.jpg
    20181104_221110.jpg
     
    OhToy likes this.
  10. Jan 1, 2019 at 1:16 AM
    #10
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    It all depends on your skill set for some replacing might be easier .

    Having done a few frame stretches over the years building a new frame or rear section for me is not that difficult

    Nothing is never so far gone it can`t be saved if it is cost effective that is the question.

    Having on more then one time put $15,000.00 or more into a vehicle worth less then $2500.00 I can`t talk about cost effective.
     
    970btu likes this.

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