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Front and Rear Differential Fluids

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Coalie, Jan 23, 2021.

  1. Jan 23, 2021 at 3:58 PM
    #1
    Coalie

    Coalie [OP] Member

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    Hi all,

    I am wanting to change out the front and rear diff fluids in my 2013 taco 2.7l 4x4. The manual sais that in the 2012 models and up, you are supposed to use GL-5 75W-85 for both the front and rear diffs. Can anybody else confirm this, and if so what brand do you recommend? Thanks!
     
  2. Jan 23, 2021 at 4:07 PM
    #2
    stevesnj

    stevesnj Well-Known Member

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    Yes, use what the manual says.
     
  3. Jan 23, 2021 at 4:09 PM
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    Boco10

    Boco10 Well-Known Member

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    Lucas oil synthetic 75/85 is what a used last time. It was on sale and it was GL5. The main thing in my opinion is not so much the brand but regular change intervals.
     
  4. Jan 23, 2021 at 4:11 PM
    #4
    elioregon

    elioregon Well-Known Member

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  5. Jan 23, 2021 at 4:49 PM
    #5
    Rick's 2012

    Rick's 2012 Well-Known Member

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    Use what the manual recommends. That's what l do.
     
  6. Jan 23, 2021 at 5:45 PM
    #6
    Micbt25

    Micbt25 Well-Known Member

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  7. Jan 23, 2021 at 5:59 PM
    #7
    ABNFDC

    ABNFDC Well-Known Member

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  8. Jan 23, 2021 at 6:48 PM
    #8
    Bootselectric

    Bootselectric Well-Known Member

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    75W-85 front and rear, and 75-90 in the transfer case is what my 2013 4.0 calls for.

    I doubt you’ll be able to find an auto-parts store that sells 75-85 off the shelf, no worries,
    O'Reilly Auto Parts was able to have Redline 75w-85 delivered to their store and ready for pickup within 24 hours, on two separate occasions for me.
    Cheaper than Amazon and faster too
    https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...3200/2013/toyota/tacoma?q=Redline+75-85&pos=0
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2021
  9. Jan 23, 2021 at 8:07 PM
    #9
    Rick's 2012

    Rick's 2012 Well-Known Member

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    I gave up trying to find 75w85. So I just used 75w90 in my transfer case and in my both differentials.
     
  10. Jan 23, 2021 at 9:06 PM
    #10
    Sprig

    Sprig Well-Known Member

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    It doesn’t matter what brand you use. If it did then the om would recommend a specific brand. Just use the fluid the Om calls for an change the fluids at the appropriate intervals.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2021
  11. Jan 24, 2021 at 4:41 AM
    #11
    Hardscrabble

    Hardscrabble Well-Known Member

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    I also used Redline when I changed the differential fluids.


    Here’s a link for your reference.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/changing-differential-fluid-a-step-by-step-how-to.24545/


    Don’t forget about the crush washers for the drain and fill plugs.
    1 ea. Front differential drain plug washer p/n 90430-24003.
    3ea. Rear/Front differential drain and fill plug washer p/n 12157-10010.
     
    smokier likes this.
  12. Jan 24, 2021 at 4:58 AM
    #12
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    IIRC you need 6qts to do the front transfer and rear, I use Amsoil 75w-90 in all three and then Redline MT90 GL IV in the 6 speed manual.

    Also I highly recommend getting the correct crush washers for the plugs from the dealer, they're pretty cheap, and the "Lexus style" internal hex with magnet plugs I replaced all mine with those, both drain and fill.

    With the exception of the front diff drain which is for SOME REASON like 2x the size of all the others and a right PITA. Also uses a brass crush washer. There's a newer design with a 12mm internal hex the original stock is 10mm I recommend updating as you pretty much guaranteed to destroy the original I broke 2 10mm allen sockets of in it, then stripped out the hex with a snap-on 10mm hex, chewed it up with an air hammer and finally decided to weld a 14mm nut to it to get it off.

    Replaced it with a 14mm updated "land cruiser" drain plug and never had another problem.

    Southern truck, no rust even.

    Also use your torque specs!

    Good luck!

    :thumbsup:
     
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  13. Jan 24, 2021 at 6:18 AM
    #13
    Micbt25

    Micbt25 Well-Known Member

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    Has anyone found a good hand pump that screws into the quart bottles?
     
  14. Jan 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM
    #14
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    I took one of the bicycle style pumps and took and old gear oil bottle top cut it so I could just squeeze the pickup hose through it so I can screw the original cap onto the bottle and use a pump that I can use my own power to draw the honey thick gear oil up and force it in rather than relying on the alway underpowered crap "soap dispenser" style.

    That is until Amsoil started selling their gear oil in essentially plastic bags, just pop the top put the cone in the hole and squeeze the bag.

    Easiest way I have found thus far.

    I FUCKING HATE GEAR OIL SMELL

    So the less mess the better.

    Even have special gear oil clothes that get washed separately with dawn dish soap, sodium bicarbonate, and, Coca-Cola. (weird but it's the best process I have found thus far.) then kept in their own sealed bag in the garage.

    Good luck, and may God have mercy on your nose.

    I got one drop ONE DROP of gear oil in the back of my car once and I could smell it for 6 months until I happened by a stanley steamer guy doing the next door apartment and gave him $20 to do just the back carpet with his industrial steam extractor. I had tried everything up until that point and finally that solved it.
     
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  15. Jan 24, 2021 at 7:02 AM
    #15
    Alloutdrs1

    Alloutdrs1 Well-Known Member

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    For sure take this advice and uodate the front drain plug, i did mine the last go around and I also run Redline oil in my drivetrain as well.
     
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  16. Jan 24, 2021 at 7:44 AM
    #16
    winkel

    winkel Well-Known Member

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    I always put some Teflon tape on my drain and fill plugs and never have a problem with them sticking.
    This will get flamed by some here, but with the Teflon tape, I reuse my crush washers if they still look good.
    And as far as brand goes, if you're not towing or pushing your truck hard, you don't need to use the boutique lubes.
    Manual transmissions though. I use Lucas or Royal Purple in my manual transmission and transfer case.
     
  17. Jan 24, 2021 at 8:03 AM
    #17
    Key-Rei

    Key-Rei Well-Known Member

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    I see no reason teflon tape would hurt anything. Some oils use teflon as an additive and some oil filters use teflon so trace amounts should be just fine.

    As for the crush washers, half the time the dealership just gives them to me because they have an open box sitting right under the parts desk. And we're using them a timer too isn't terrible, but they're cheap and they ensure your torque is held so why not?

    And yeah sure, you don't need to use the "boutique" oils but realistically for as long as the stuff is supposed to last, (even the cheap stuff) it works out too not much more at all and if the added protection isn't worth it, the warm fuzzy feeling I get is.

    Irregardless, I digress; nobody should be getting flamed here. Teased about owning a third gen, or a jeep, (looking at you @crashnburn80 :spy: ) absolutely, but not flamed.

    :bananadead:
     
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  18. Jan 24, 2021 at 8:16 AM
    #18
    D-Bag

    D-Bag Well-Known Member

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    I understand most folks go with factory gear oil specs. But, I regeared with ECGS 4.56 and ECGS recommends/requires non-synthetic Lucas 85/140 gear oil to be used on their ring & pinions. Warranty will be voided Lucas 85/140 is not used. When I am looking at changing something from stock/oem I trust experts in their field. With that said I have been pleased with Lucas 85/140. Also, if you give the front differential fill plug a few firm smites on the head of the plug with the flat side of a ball peen hammer before attempting to remove the plug it should break free much easier.
     
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  19. Jan 24, 2021 at 8:18 AM
    #19
    Markcal

    Markcal Well-Known Member

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  20. Jan 24, 2021 at 8:20 AM
    #20
    Knute

    Knute Well-Known Member

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    Follow the recommendations in the Owner's Manual.

    Any brand oil that meets the specifications will satisfy the need.

    No reason to overthink this......
     
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