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Front brake caliper pins!!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by eric70412, Feb 15, 2009.

  1. Feb 15, 2009 at 6:59 PM
    #1
    eric70412

    eric70412 [OP] Active Member

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    I bought new brake pads and new rotors for the front of my truck the other day. This is the first time I ever changed the front brake pads on this truck. Is there a trick to getting those darn pins out of the Caliper to remove the pads? I tried pounding them out first with the caliper on the rotor no luck!! Then I removed the Caliper and then was able to get the 1 pin started out but couldnt get the other 1 to budge. I didnt wanna pull the 1 all the way out for fear that I wouldnt be able to get it back in if I couldnt get the other 1 out.. I was gonna try and disconnect the caliper all together and take it over to the work bench and put it in the vice and try driving them out that way. But then I probably would of had to bleed the brakes after I hooked it back up.:mad: I didnt have any help to do that at the time I was doing it. So I put it all back together and now I think I am gonna take it somewhere and have it done..

    This is the Second toyota that I have had that I couldnt get the stupid pins out to change the brakes. I love the Toyota trucks but after this I might consider buying American the next time because of this issue!!

    Appreciate any advice..

    Thanks
     
  2. Feb 15, 2009 at 7:07 PM
    #2
    tacomaman06

    tacomaman06 Carolina Alliance: Enforcer

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    getting there....
    take a little pb blaster and spray only where the pins go into the caliper and come out.........try not to get it on the rotors. let it sit a bit, then tap them out with a hammer.........worked for me. when you get them out....clean them up real good......and rub them down with emery cloth to get the surface rust off of them.
     
  3. Feb 15, 2009 at 7:19 PM
    #3
    KoolWipTacoma

    KoolWipTacoma Member

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    just put new pads on my 05 2day. there is a small carter key on the end of those pins make sure u take those out to get those pins out. also use a c-clap or big pair of channel-locks to compress the pistons. tap the ends of the pins with hammer to get the head out a little then grab the head with vice-grips or pliers and use hammer to hit the vice-grips. it should slide right out. hope i could be of some help to u! good luck!
     
  4. Feb 16, 2009 at 10:12 AM
    #4
    ARB1977

    ARB1977 Don't be a dick

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    Take the clip out and they sould slide out...unless they are rusted in. Like mentioned above pb blaster is your friend.
     
  5. Jan 17, 2013 at 8:03 PM
    #5
    TIPICOTACO

    TIPICOTACO Well-Known Member

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    anyone know if these pins are available in stainless steel ??
     
  6. Jan 17, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #6
    Robertgeejr1

    Robertgeejr1 Well-Known Member

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    don't blame toyota for this. they are made out of harden steel, but you should grease them up very well and keep them that way. don't pound on stuff like that you really run the risk of doing some damage to the calipers. depending on use and climate that is one thing you have to check on every now and then, esp. if off roading.
     
  7. Aug 30, 2016 at 9:07 PM
    #7
    kmech100

    kmech100 Member

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    No this is flat out dumb engineering at its best. It's like I'm pounding a rivet manually and pb blaster isn't helping
     
  8. Aug 30, 2016 at 9:12 PM
    #8
    JKO1998

    JKO1998 Well-Known Member

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    I got a punch thing that was about the some diameter of the pin and just mighty tapped it back and forth, spraying WD-40 and working it in slowly until they just came out.
     
  9. Aug 30, 2016 at 9:16 PM
    #9
    TooMuchToDo

    TooMuchToDo Well-Known Member

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    ...we'll get there.
    Seriously, keep at it. Pb blaster and tap, over and over. Back and forth. Once you get one out you can use it as a punch for the next...or us an actual center punch. It took me an hour and a half to get them out on my truck on the first brake job.

    They sell replacement pins. Do yourself a favor and buy new ones. Clean and grease the old ones as a stopgap if you need to, but buy new ones.
     
  10. Aug 31, 2016 at 10:14 AM
    #10
    Truck Yeah!

    Truck Yeah! Well-Known Member

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  11. Aug 31, 2016 at 11:40 AM
    #11
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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  12. Aug 31, 2016 at 5:04 PM
    #12
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I don`t know now my pins get changed with new pads

    Being in the rust belt maybe the first time they were a little stubborn

    After that lightly greased with disc brake grease .

    calipers come off for any reason new pins

    I always have extra pins in the parts I keep
     
  13. Sep 2, 2016 at 12:55 AM
    #13
    kmech100

    kmech100 Member

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    As soon as I got mine out I sanded down the bucktail, threw them in the tumbler then they were zinc coated. I lathered them in antisez mixed with with wheel bearing grease before putting them in.

    I just remember saying to myself that this is the longest brake change I've ever done in my life.(on a daily driver) I hope the engineer that designed this was fired. And all I'm doing is manually bucking an extra long rivet in an attempt to get it out which dosent make any sense and I need to look for some aftermarket calipers after this.

    I'm pretty sure the stealerships just use a center punch and drill into the head until they can get a pin punch in to rip the head off and punch it out from the front and replace the pins. Otherwise they'd be running out of pb blaster which cost more than 2 pins. Plus brake changes would blow for the mechanic if it took longer than the listed job/time. Which is based off a traditional caliper where the brakes can be removed in under a minute if you felt like going Nascar speed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2016
    navevang and TooMuchToDo like this.
  14. Sep 2, 2016 at 6:33 AM
    #14
    BigRed2001

    BigRed2001 Member

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    I had the same problem with mine. After spending much longer than I should have pounding, cutting, and drilling, I took the calipers to Autozone and exchanged them for rebuilt ones. This is not an expensive option if you decide to go that way. What worried me more than the pin rusting to the caliper, was that the pad was also rusted to the pin. I had one pad that could not move anymore so that explained why I really had to jump on the brakes to get the truck to stop. And after that I was concerned that the caliber was frozen up because it hadn't been able to move freely for so long. I figured the safest thing to do is to invest in some refurbished calipers.
     
  15. Sep 2, 2016 at 8:08 AM
    #15
    TooMuchToDo

    TooMuchToDo Well-Known Member

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    ...we'll get there.
    if you're going the caliper replacement route, consider the Trundra brake swap.
     
  16. Sep 2, 2016 at 10:06 AM
    #16
    BigTuna007

    BigTuna007 New Member

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    Just did this last weekend, my pins were completely corroded and would not budge. We did multiple things to get them out.

    1. Hammered on them (framing hammer) used various punches etc to hammer on. Risk here is that the end deforms and won't fit through the caliper, this happened but not a huge deal, more on that later.
    2. Sprayed them with liquid wrench and let it sit.
    3. Used every manner of vice grip etc. to twist on them.
    4. Tried a C-Clamp tightened over the end of the pin, but there was not a good flat surface on the outside of the calipers to clamp to, this didn't work well.
    5. Cut pins with sawzall.
    6. Repeated hammering and twisting process on cut ends with more liquid wrench until they freed up and I could get them out.

    What worked best: Removed the caliper, supported it on a 5 gallon bucket. Grabbed my sawzall and a new metal blade, compressed the pistons in, and used a slim pry bar to protect the pistons. Carefully cut the center of the pins in two spots for each pin, and was able to get the middle pin section plus the pads out in one piece. (You can use your C-Clamp to push the pads out of the way so your saw blade can get through.) Once they are out, you are left with 4 cut pin sections and you can work the pins, hammer one end, then the other direction, use a punch to push on it, twist with vice grips, etc.

    If the pin deforms on an end and won't go through the caliper, work it in the opposite direction, then take your sawzall and carefully cut the deformed end off. The clean cut should go right through the caliper with a punch.

    The second one went much faster as I perfected the technique. I did notice on the 2nd caliper, that all 4 pin sections came loose almost at the same time after about 1.5 hours of working at them- it was as though the liquid wrench finally soaked in enough and got rid of the rust. If you can leave the work and come back to it may make sense to soak, re-soak, and soak again with PB Blaster or Liquid wrench.

    In the end, it is a few techniques together that worked. When you buy your materials make sure to get the new pins, my buddy and I had to run out mid-job to get them once we decided cutting was the only way. Pep Boys carries them. From now on I will ask them to lube the pins when they do a tire rotation... Good luck.
     
    TooMuchToDo and Truck Yeah! like this.
  17. Sep 3, 2016 at 6:31 AM
    #17
    babylon5

    babylon5 Well-Known Member

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    Sound similar to the shear pins in my snow blower. After many seasons of throwing snow mixed with salt they where in there for good. I used my air chisel with the straight point (like a drift pin) and out they came.

    I have been using this on my caliper pins, back of brake pads etc and it is exceptional
    The stuff will not melt or wash off or go away ever...
    And its a real pain to get off your fingers :)

    https://www.permatex.com/products/l...atex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/
     
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