Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

Is it ok to use 80w-90 instead of

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90?

 

Yes

 

I did the fluid change this past weekend.. basically I did most of my 60k service myself..

all differentials and transfer case, spark plugs, serpentine belt, front pads..

Thanks to Chris4x4 and Jspadaro for posting DIY pictures.. I saved $ 340 in dealer costs..

the thing I won't tackle is the auto trans fluid change...

Question? dealer is telling the WTF fluid doesn't required change until 100k.. My Taco is a 2006 4x4 TRD with on 60k on it now..it has a towing package but I really don't tow heavy ..about 6 times a yeat I hook up jon boat trailer 1100 lbs ..
but maintenance book calls out for a auto trans fluid change at 60 k with heavy tow .. I 'm going on 8 years should I have this done????

Any feed back as always would be nice..


Thanks

 

Anything on this? Please save me going in there and swapping them all around to prove this lol.

 

WTF or ATF? The ATF can be changed but I think the WTF is left alone.

I forget the cutoff mileage but my dealer said they would not flush the tranny after a certain mileage if no flush previously done. They have said this on all of my Toyotas. The mileage cutoff was somewhere between 50-75k. Their reasoning was that if the mileage was higher, there was a statistically greater chance of some solids accumulation fouling the system (e.g. make a valve stick). So I wouldn't wait.

 

Ok thanks... I meant to say WS .. I type WTF because the dealer called it World Transmission Fluid.... but WTF applies to DIY... Thanks

 

so I bought the same gear lube featured in the tutorial (Mobil 1 synthetic

$29 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90) for my 2006 Tacoma TRD off road, double cab). Is the chirp a common issue since I cant get redline locally and shipping will likely be pricey. Lower down in thread someone stated that GL5 could damage sync rings??

Another thread cautioned against going synthetic in the rear diff to avoid ruining the seals??

Hate to put in something that is going to cause problems.


Thanks in advance all!

 

I used Valvoline (dino) GL-5 80-90w in the rear and Valvoline 75-90 front and Tarnsfer case no issues yet..

 

Started my rear diff/ front diff/ transfer case yesterday. Just assumed I had a 24mm socket in my socket set. Unfortunately I did not so I went and picked one up. I also assumed I had a 10mm hex socket as well in my massive bit set I have. So i didnt think to buy one while at crappy tire while I was there. So I just left the front diff for today. Gotta go get the hex socket and wait for the ground to dry (it rained like crazy here last night, finally!). All in all easy peasy. Glad I could keep the money out of the stealerships hands. Thanks for the writeup!

 

did the trans, transfer, and both diffs this weekend thanks to these threads.

Hardest part was pumping the oil, my pump left 1/4 quart in the bottle, made it really hard to accurately measure when it was in a place i couldnt use a funnel (transfer and transmission).

 

I tried looking up the recommended maintenance at each service interval but basically came up with no good info. Does anyone have a link that shows what's recommended every service interval?

 

Here you are buddy.

 

I tried getting my front diff plug out but I stripped the 10 mm hex bolt. What can I do to break it free? Just heat it up with a torch and grab it with some vice grips? Give it a couple smacks with a ball peen hammer to break the rust free? The rear diff an the transfer case were a breeze. Just ran into some problems with the front. Why don't they just put a normal drain plug in there?

 

front is a pain, not sure how you could grab it with vice grips, and given the torque i doubt you would be able to remove it if you could grab it.

I am sure someone else can chime in, but i cant think of much other than welding the hex into it and then removing it.


After doing mine i wished i had replaced the hex bolts with new ones, i definitely will next time as my truck is getting rustier (Vermont...)

 

I'm just south of you, I put anti-seize compound on the threads for next time, then sprayed HD anti rust over the bolts to keep them from rusting further.

 

I also did some anti seize, i like the idea of spraying the outside down, I think i might just apply a thick layer of wheel bearing grease

 

Thanks for the write up. Very helpful. I did mine this weekend and picked up new crush washers using the part numbers you gave. I wanted to add, for those like me that don't know, crush washers are directional with the cupped end towards the bolt flange. I made sure before starting that I had them on correctly.

 

Not sure if this has been asked already or not but I know my 2012 doesn't have mechanical LSD so it doesn't need the additive. My question is if the Mobil1 synthetic I bought says it has additives for Limited Slip, can I still use it in my non-mechanical LSD? I can't find Mobil1 anywhere that doesn't say limited slip on it is the problem. Seems like almost all the synthetic gear oil has additives in it. Will it hurt a non-LSD differential?

 

It won't hurt it, you're just paying a little extra.

 

Drain and refill, done.

Basic 80w90, good to go.