Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

what is the best way to measure the off of the wall quarts? I know 1.6 is a tad over 1 and half quarts but do you just add a quart and just squirt a tad more into the 1.1 one? I hate it when the measurements are like this haha. I'm a straight to the point type of person. just don't want to over fill and under fill!

 

I have some glass measuring pitchers that I use to measure the odd-ball quantities of fluids needed in my various vehicles/motorcycles. They aren't that expensive at places like Wal-mart, Marshals, or even a Goodwill/Salvation Army stores.

Good luck.

 

Fill the diff until it's full and can't hold anymore fluid. Fluid will start to flow out of the fill hole. Then put the fill plug back in. You will have to buy 2 bottles of fluid anyway. You don't need to measure any fluid.

 

That's what I do....I never measure. For what its worth.... truck should be on a flat surface and the rear axle probably should not be jacked up. I do diff changes with all 4 wheels on the ground.

 

Thanks. is that the same with the rear, front and trans case? that's what I used to do on my quad so I didn't know if it was the same way or not. Appreciate it!

 

Yes, fill them until the they are full and fluid starts to run back out. It will be close to the specified measurement.

 

Thanks all! Gotta love TW!!!!

 

A little off topic but is anyone else's engine dipstick hard as hell to read? I can check mine 4 different types and I will get a different level every time.

 

Has anyone added Lubegard gear fluid supplement to their diffs or transfer cases?

 

Have a quick question guys. I know the manual calls for 75w85 for rear and for some reason it's difficult to find that in stores. I am one who doesn't use the dealer as much as possible and I asked the service guy there if if would be ok to use 75w90 in the rear. His response which I already knew the answer was no, stick was is recommended in the manual. And he goes on to tell me that Toyota only recommends changed those fluids every 30k. I go on to tell him that my manual states every 15 k for front and rear and 30k for trans case. I am at 10k now and was going to go ahead and do the change due to the long weekend and was planning on changing the front and rear with RP 75w90 so it's an easy go in grab a few quarts of the same product and be out. What do you guys think? Will putting 75w90 in the rear hurt anything? And he was crazy to tell me that 15k was to early for a change unless I do a lot of towing. I don't but I do do some minor off roading, tow a boat during duck season and live in Washington where it rains all the time. I do t think it will hurt but what do you guys think. Is the dealer just trying to get Neto buy their products and service? A quick response will be truly great full since I am on my way to the store now. Thanks.

 

extra virgin olive oil, from the NE coast of Italy is the ONLY oil to use...

As long as the oil meets the GL-5 criteria and is fairly close in weight, you are good.

Howard

 

I think I might prefer the extra virgin olive oil instead!

 

Was planning on doing both diffs and transfer case today and got only rear diff and transfer case done but couldn't do the front diff because the drain plug was completely stripped. Now I'm really wondering how and when the front diff fluid was changed because of this. It also didn't help that I couldn't find a 10 mm hex socket or allen key because the auto skills shop I was at did not have metric hex sockets or allen keys. The closest they had was a 3/8" allen key but that wasn't going to cut it. Looks as if someone may have tried to loosen the drain plug with a 3/8" with a socket wrench and wondered why it wasn't loosening or they did use a 10mm but the plug was too tight and it stripped it. Hate hex bit bolts made with the softest metal known. Stupid design. I bought a new drain plug from goldplugs but has anyone replaced the fill plug with a normal plug that can be bought at any autoparts store? I want to get rid of the top hex bit plug and replace it with a same threaded regular headed bolt. Also with the rear diff and transfer case. I replaced both of those drain plugs with plugs from goldplugs but the fill plugs are pretty rounded off too and I want to replace those. I'm assuming the only place to buy those is the dealer, or does anyone know where I can buy quality replacements for those at a retailer or online? Thanks.

Ok. I went to autozone and oreily's and the closest thing I could find was this:



So its only 18mm but the threads look the same both in diameter and length. I like that it has a much more substantial head to grab onto. After I contact the dealer and see how much they charge and for what I will check the fit on it.

 

Just did both differentials and the tcase this weekend since I recently hit 30k miles. Quick question - you can't overfill any of those, correct? I bought 5 qts of

$30 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90 based on quantities listed in this guide and the one by Chris 4x4 (all excellent guides by the way - much appreciated!) and I was about half a quart short so I had to make a run for a 6th bottle.

For all of them I had the truck leveled out and filled until it started leaking out the fill plug. For the rear diff I waited a few minutes and then filled it until it leaked again.

 

So Front and rear diffs GL-5 and my manual tranny and transfer case GL-4?

 

GL-5 is backwards compatible to GL-4, so a single bucket of GL-5 is good for all. If it shifts a tad hard first thing on cold days, some MT in the transmission might be appropriate.

Howard

 

And Is it safe to use

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 in the rear diff even though the manual calls for 80w-90?

 

Yes...

 

Nice wright up! Pics helped ! Did all three today!

 

So the front diff doesn't require any limited slip additive? I wasnt sure if it was a LSD or not anyway