Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

I wonder why my rear gear oil looked so terrible?

 

Anybody use more oil than is called for? I did both axles and the Tcase. I bought 6 quarts. The rear I noticed it seemed to take more than 3 quarts. Kinda hard to tell as the cheap pump I bought ($5 Performance Tool brand) wouldn't pump the last couple of ounces out of the bottle. I kept transferring the oil into the next bottle but I still put about 4 ounces from the 4th bottle into the rear axle. Then did the Tcase and the front axle. Just as I started to see maybe a few drops backing out the fill hole the pump stopped pumping.

I'll probably end up buying another quart just to be sure but by my count, 3 quarts + 1.1 quarts + 1.6 quarts = 5.7 quarts. So I should have about 18 ounces left over. Even with the couple of ounces left in the last bottle I should have had plenty to do the job.

 

Did you flush any oil through? If the truck wasnt level, you may have been able to put more oil in there. Dont over think it. If the truck is level, just pump it till it overflows slightly and youre good. It may take more or less depending on how much you drained.

 

Truck was level. poured the last couple of ounces that wouldn't run thru the pump into a squeeze bottle and squeezed them in. That filled it. Just a little disconcerting not to have any left over.

 

Thats what happened to me. I bought 7 bottles, ended up returning one, and I have about a half bottle left over. Just depends on how well of a drain you got on the old stuff. As long as its overflowing slightly you should be good.

 

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS WRITE UP AND FOR ALL OTHERS WHO HAVE PROVIDED GUIDANCE I used Red Line 75W85 GL-5 front and rear Diff. Mt 90 75-90 GL-4 transfer case and tranny/manual. Prior to changing anything I cracked the seal on each plug I was going to drain and fill, I bought a can of PM blaster just in case and sprayed each one the night before. It really sucks when you can't get the bolt off and you have all the oil to do the job. With truck being cold i was able to break all the seals. For some it was the first time the the seal was broken on the plug (VERY BAD ). Took a drive to get all the oils hot then started to drain. All of my oil were very dark and had run out of any of what I can assume its good viscosity properties, ok maybe 5% left at best. I bought a quart liter measuring cup to get the proper measurement. I used a pump as well pumped put enough to deplete the air out of the quart then dumped what was not able to be pumped out into the measuring cup. There was a measurable amount that needed to be in wherever it needed to be. it took me a while because I wanted to make sure i did it correct the first time and not have to change it again. The only problem I had was when my tranny fluid was pouring onto my motorcycle oil pan which is flat it started to overflow onto the garage floor. Dang tranny plug plugged my oil pan fill plug. BTW (clean)kitty litter works wonders on most things needing the be pulled up off the ground. My truck i know is working better than with the dirty oil that was in my truck. I have a torque wrench and used on some tightening but i tightened them up enough to be tight as well as not so much that i will have a hard time taking them off.

 

This is my first post, new to the website. I can say this thread has been a huge help so far.
Sprayed all fill/drain plugs with PB Blaster. They all loosened up without any issue. Living in Ontario, Canada, our roads are covered with salt over the winter months.
Bought 6 quarts Amsoil 75w90 Severe Gear oil.
Plan is to do the diffs and transfer case when it warms up a bit.

Thanks for the help everyone

 

Question for the masses. What's the thread pitch and size on the drain/fill ports on the tcase? Mine are messed up and need to be replaced, but the internet isn't being very helpful about the replacement size

 

This might help for parts numbers!

https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2...SFER-CASE--EXTENSION-HOUSING/674470-3609.html

I don't know about the thread pitch though.

 

This actually helps a lot, thanks!

 

Hmm. I found the part number, and the internet seems to say it's an 18x1.5, but I'd like to be sure. Anybody able to measure one of thier transfer case plugs? Both the fill and the drain are the same part number, so the threads should be the same. I'd really like to replace these with a different type, so I don't have to deal with a stripped plug again.

 

there we go. This looks like the way to go, at least the plugs wont be the soft cheese kind like toyota used.

 

Everybody asks the questions that are already answered in the thread... Does anybody know how to read anymore?

 

sub'd

 

I changed my drain plugs over to the Dimple Magnetic Drain plugs. Excellant quality.
Do a search the site is very well done.
TOMB

 

https://goldplug.com/

These are probably good too but I have the Fumoto for my oil drain plug.

 

Completed my annual front differential and transfer case service today, and some other maintenance goodies as well.

 

Spent a little time reading the link at the beginning of this thread. Spent some money at the local parts stores. The rear diff has made an occasional groaning sound when making tight turns since having toyota change the fluid. Based on what I read here I suspect they used synthetic gear lube in my sport with lsd. Used a 15/16 6 point socket to break the plugs loose and let it drain for a while. I poured in three quarts of valvoline 75-90 dino gear lube and a 4oz bottle of friction modifier as recommended. An absolute f**king success. Drove it in a full lock circle in both directions with no noise at all. Celebrating with beer now. Hell yes!!! Thanks TW. Next up will be the front diff and transfer case.

 

Thank you for the post, just finished front and rear diffs along with the t-case this morning.

 

Hey All,
So I am about to change the oil in both diffs and the transfer case. I want to know if anyone has used 80w-90 in all three and if there have been any issues.