FRONT END CANOE TIE DOWN SUGGESTIONS

Yeah a strap through the rear windows is a good idea.

 

I used to do the balancing act...it was sketchy. Equal and opposite tension on the bow and stern lines was key, and don’t over-torque straps or you’ll add unwanted rocker to your boat.

 

Not to mention that you shouldn’t be ratcheting the front and rear down like crazy anyways because thats all downward force on your roof, or in my case the roof of the cap.

with the canoe tied to a roof rack as your primary anchor you can ratchet it down as much as you want without pushing down on the roof itself, then augment with your front and rear ties.

..another reason to get a rack soon as you can OP, but seeing as you’ve had plenty of better setups in the past you’re probably aware of these things.

 

Even a single rack crossmember over your cab might be budget friendly enough and work well with your hitch mount thing to avoid the pool noodles and roof down pressure issues that could arise. Some mount on the sides by the window and can clip in and out so you can take it down when not moving the canoe so it doesn’t look odd
https://www.autoanything.com/roof-r...efCeT4saPJ_q7g3E-bntEH27SyatfNTYaAv2uEALw_wcB

Something like this. Don’t know exactly where you’re at when you say budget is a concern but if you were considering a bull bar maybe this isn’t so far from possibility

 

One too many noodles... That's a train.

 

Flip the bed extender around and just let it hang out

 

As others said, strapping through windows for cheap solution. Best solution, get a single crossbar for above the cab to pair with your hitch bar. I use these and they are great bc you don't need to mess with taking anything on or off and they hold up to an 800 lb load (I haul lots of lumber too). Got the set for around $300 off Home Depot a couple months back. Made by Thule.

 

On my 1st gen I installed ditch light brackets, without lights to add tie down points for my boats and kayaks. Sorry no pics, and not on new 3rd gen yet.

 

The noodles actually work surprisingly well and did not appear to leave any marks at all on the roof. I did have a ratchet strap running through both back doors for extra security that day. I only used this pictured setup once last fall and it was only about 10 miles each way. I had just picked up that rear hitch mounted carrier and wanted to try it out. Upon using it the way I did that day I decided I wanted a more secure front end tie down point that doesn't require contact with my paint. This is why I had originally thought of (and am still thinking of) putting a bull bar on the front to tie off to. If I can find one that is fairly tall I could position the canoe so that the angle of the front straps wouldn't allow them to touch the front end of the vehicle at all. The straps would go completely over the front end sheet metal to the top of the bar. As often as I get a chance to go fishing lately I'm not ready to spend the money on a $600 roof rack. Even with a rack I would still need a secure front tie down point. I've only had this truck for about 6 months now and I'm not in any hurry to start making any major changes to it yet (except maybe a bolt-on bull bar).

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

Those look great but unfortunately that would require the removal of the hard tonneau which would eliminate the secure area for carrying all my gear and still would not give me a front end tie down point.

 

Ahh ok didn't see you have a tonneau. Yakima Overhaul & ReTrax system would be best for that scenario but that is massive $$$$. I keep a few big lockable totes in the garage to use for 'tonneau situations' (links below). With this bar setup you don't need any kind of front or tail tie down, honestly. The bars can be set 4-5 feet apart so once you strap your boat(s) down it has a ton of support spread out over a large area. I've driven my canoe across the country multiple times and no shifting whatsoever. The bars have rubber stripping on the top too which gives it a ton of grip.

$150 Rubbermaid ActionPacker️ 48 Gal Lockable Plastic Storage Bin, Industrial, Rugged Large Container with Lid (Black,gray)

https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-1949210-ActionPacker-Lockable-Storage/dp/B076CFRDWH/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=tacoma+lockable+storage+bins&qid=1580494383&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExOEhWOU9GOEoyS0JMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTExMzAwMlFEQklDS0xVN09DMSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTA5ODA2MjBXUlhGOEVIMTJCVCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU%3D

 

Just use the factory tow hooks, but use chafing gear. If everythings tight, should work

 

This is my setup. Custom built 1" steel tubing. Was originally built for a access cab not my current double cab so it is a little short. Need to get it extended. If I am throwing my 24' cedar strip canoe on I uses a set of tie downs that I cut into pieces and bolted in under the hood to help with wind stability.

 

I installed a made in China knock-off of the OEM rack on my dblcab and with three ratchet straps holding the center third of the 16.6 canoe I was comfortable running back and forth 10 miles at under 50 mph to the put-in. For highway and distance I will look into a front tie down - that Thule loop above looks like a good idea for me.

 

I have been hauling heavy fishing kayaks for 5 seasons now. Just got a Tacoma and was looking for suggestion on a front tie down point that doesn't rely on paint contact. Guess the closest thing mentioned here is a ditch light bracket. For anyone reading if you are on the water a lot, 60+ trips a season, straps touching your paint, regarless of the rubber tube around it, can and WILL damage/burn through your paint, had this happen several times on prior vehicles and even burn through 3m clear film. If paint contact is your only option, 3m film it and inspect the film frequently. This is how I am currently working with the new taco, front factory lower recovery point and i have the bummer and top of the grill/hood sections 3m filmed. This is temporary and need another option, will try the ditch light brackets.

 

I don't use front or back tie downs. Lashed well to the Thule racks has worked for me. Driven on bumpy logging roads and done 80 on highway for long stretches. Sorry I don't have a better picture.

 

Nice trunk. Although you can certainly get away without them bow and stern tie downs are recommended and I always run them. Piece of mind it my rack were to fail I'm not potentially hurting someone else.

 

Added the hood loops to mine, also added another set of straps to engage another two crossbars of the Prinsu.. overkill? yes.. but makes me more comfortable driving down the highway without sweating my boat.

Front line is as much for me to have a visible reference of how the boat is doing..

 

A lot of the options shown in this thread aren't too practical, or in some cases possible, with an extended cab vehicle. I just gave up and bought a 12' stand-up fishing kayak that fits perfectly in the bed with my bed extender in the low position instead of the tall position. Lines up perfectly even with the tailgate height. Now I don't have to throw the canoe up over my head either (
but it'll suck for my buddy if he wants to go with me and has to watch me from shore...lmao)