Front Hub Inner Seal Replacement with out removing spindle?

Anyone replaced the inner seal for the Hub Assembly with out removing the spindle?
I will be replacing both Hub Assemblies and would like to remove as little parts as necessary.
Any other advice would be helpful.
Thank you all.

 

I did both sides. Hubs and seals. Unbolt the LCA from the spindle and you'll have enough room to get the CV out of the spindle.

 

You mean the seal on the knuckle where the CV joint slides in?
Yes, disassembly includes removing the tie rod and sway bar link on the knuckle. You'll then be able to spin the knuckle around to remove the seal. The only thing holding it in place will be the upper BJ.

 

I'm talking about this seal.

http://www.marionbumper2bumper.com/...nly-Not-required-for-4X2-assemblies-p70724308

I only want to do these once. As I understand it, it's good insurance to go ahead and replace this seal.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

@TnShooter
Yep, that's the one I'm referring to also. I've replaced only the driver-side 'cause after I installed it, I came to the conclusion that if the inside area of the knuckle is rust and debris free, indicating the inner seal is good, why change it. I've replaced my front bearings twice and the pass side has the original inner seal. May change it next time as preventive maintenance. It was a PIA installing the new one; I believe I used a a couple of wooden 2X4's and a C-clamp to press the new one into the knuckle.

And, yes, lower BJ sub-assembly also needs to be removed; otherwise, you couldn't spin the knuckle around.

 

I did not need to separate the tie rod end to install the hub and seal. I don't remember messing with the sway bar either.

 

@L J
You probably didn't install the inside seal, only the outside, that goes on the bearing assembly before pressing into the hub. I can't see pressing the inside seal into the knuckle with the CV shaft in the way.

 

I purchased the hubs prebuilt from a forum member along with a pair of inner seals. After unbolting the LCA from the spindle I was able to move the spindle enough to get the CV out and replace the inner seal. I also removed the 5100s as I wanted to change preload on them while I was in there. Maybe that's why I had enough room to get the axle out. I know I didn't separate any ball joints. I did this in my driveway during a snow storm so I didn't get pics etc. Used two pieces of wood and a big c clamp to get the seals in.

 

Thanks for all the help guys.
I did some research and if you separate the Lower Ball Joint Assembly from the Spindle there is supposed
to be enough room to get to the seal.

All that being said, It's not going to be above freezing here for a another week.
I have no other place but outside and in a driveway. It's cold here. And I need my truck like yesterday.
The local shop priced me $175.00 labor to do both sides. Thinking I'll just let them do it for me this time.

Thanks for the help any ways.
I'll pay for the convince this time.
This southern boy don't do cold well.

 

If I could have found an installer I could trust for $175 I would have let them do the work. However it was not a difficult job and it only took a little over three hours from start to finish. I used an E-Z up canopy with three side walls so I could work outside in the snow/cold. At least a third of the time was spent getting the truck on jack stands, gathering tools, setting up the canopy and putting tools etc.away. There really isn't that much to it. Just a few bolts and some hammering/prying.

 

I had every intentions of doing the job myself. Doesn't look any worse than ball joints on an F250.
But I'm honestly over this cold weather. Had to thaw my water line in the garage yesterday.
Then call a buddy to get a ride for some heat tape and insulation for the pipes.
I think it's worth $175.00 and a lesson learned.

FIX THINGS SOONER THAN LATER.

 

Well shit happens. Frozen pipes are never good. Mine still had some time left. I heard that noise and did a search on this forum, found all kinds of things about how to do it and somehow convinced myself to get out in my driveway and fix it. Like I said I would pay someone in a second if I could find a good mechanic for cheap.

 

I made this tool to replace front inner dust seals with the following materials purchased at Tractor Supply Company and Walmart for less than $9 :

• Threaded rod 1/2” x 12” (TSC) $2.49
• 3 @ 1/2” nuts (TSC) $0.33
• 3 @ 1/2” washers (TSC) $0.33
• U-Bolt plate #2191 3/8” x 4” (TSC) $1.49
• Hyper Tough 93mm oil filter wrench (Walmart) $3.37

Drilled 1/2” hole in center of u-bolt plate and filter wrench.
Assemblied parts.
Filed oil filter brim for slightly looser fit.
93mm perfect fit for the Timken #710573 (OEM 90316A0001) purchased at Rock Auto for $8.21