Front rotor problems?

It's called bedding the pads, and it's a break in procedure that helps cure the compounds in the pad and begins an even transfer of pad material to the rotor.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=85

 

Brembo blanks must be “Chinese white box” inside of nice marketing box. Mine developed a slight warping after 4 months- perhaps around 5k Miles with the TRD pads. I don’t recommend Brembo blanks.

My shuddering doesn’t exist until the rotors warm up after a few miles of driving and light braking.

If I brake firmly and hard (to the point of slightly brake checking), then I don’t get any shudder. If I do light controlled braking, which is the 95% use-case, to a slow stop I can feel pulsing as the wheels turns to a stop. Several hard brakes fast to slow speed speeds does nothing to remove the issue.

I intentionally abused the factory brake hardware at times, and never had an issue for 81k Miles, and in fact was able to get the pads down to 1/16th inch before voluntary replacement. My shuddering isn’t super terrible, but I’ll be going back to full OEM either at the end of this summer or next April.

 

From the linked article...

There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing - following proper break in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance after market discs and pads should come with both installation and break in instructions. The procedures are very similar between manufacturers. With respect to the pads, the bonding resins must be burned off relatively slowly to avoid both fade and uneven deposits. The procedure is several stops of increasing severity with a brief cooling period between them. After the last stop, the system should be allowed to cool to ambient temperature. Typically, a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between should get the job done for a high performance street pad. During pad or disc break-in, do not come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is the chance for non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting to take place and the results will be what the whole process is trying to avoid. Game over.

 

wowwwwww

 

I guess everyone has their opinion as I still dont see how enough force could be applied and warp anything without breaking the stud off. That being said if you torque one stud all the way down then do the others it may not seat properly and that would cause a misalignment. Thats why I always tighten in a crisscross pattern not in a clockwise or counter clockwise pattern...thats how I see it anyhow.

 

i always do that

 

I was wondering about this. Goodyear did a tire rotation last month, and when I pulled the tires to paint my calipers, I practically had to sit on the breaker bar. I heard the metal below make a releasing noise too.

So overtightened lugs can damage the rotors, and possibly break the studs, I suspect? I reset them all to the correct torque. Hoping I dont have a problem later.