Fuel Filter Replacement

If the filter has never been changed there is a pretty good chance it will run better

Toyota still claims it's a """"lifetime""""" part but it's replaceable and they definitely do get clogged over time. I did mine about 45K miles ago so it's probably about time to do mine as well

 

Thanks. I'm starting to experience poor performance that has symptoms of fuel starvation. The initial engine run after filter rnr developed blinking chk eng light but extinguished later. On my way to work this am light now steady with almost consistent poor performance. Will update after eval with obd. Anyone pls advise with ideas. Mahalo!

 

Great video, and of course mostly applicable to Tacos, EXCEPT for ease of accessing fuel power power connector!

What's the best way to cut power to our fuel pumps so we can run the lines dry? I too am skeptical about what the EFI fuse is powering. I've found via google reference to a fuel pump "switch" in the cab on the passenger side near the heater/AC components, but no pictures. Anyone have ideas where this is?

 

I have tried to get that fuel pump connection off on a Tacoma and it is pretty hard. I can get my hand on it, but getting the button pushed and having the dexterity and strength to get it off is pretty difficult. If I were you, I'd just take the gas cap off, let the tank depressurize and then see if you can get the connections broken free. Before I read the FSM and learned the way they document to de-pressurize the lines, I replaced the fuel filter on my 2000 4runner without disconnecting the power to my fuel pump. I was able to break the connections free no problem but there was more pressure in the lines for sure.

 

That's how I did mine recently. Just open the gas cap and let the truck sit for a while. If you can, leave it sit like that overnight even. The pressure will dissipate over time and you won't have any fuel coming out of the lines or very little. Don't forget to put the gas cap back on!

 

If it's a 22RE there is a high chance that it's never been changed I can't tell you how many I have seen full of water and rust only thing that kept it running was because they mount horizontal.

 

Cool, I won't worry too much about it then. My flare nuts look like they have good edges and the filter body itself is quite weathered, so I imagine my filter is factory original with 170k miles on it. I'll see if I can get some "quality" chinesium flare nut wrenches from the Horror Fraught and tackle this next weekend. Camelback seems to have prices competitive with parts from Amazon (which are probably 50/50 OEM/counterfeit).

 

Do any of you use Teflon tape on the fuel line threads to avoid leaks?

 

Do not do this. What helps make a leak-free connection is putting a little bit of motor oil on the flared end of the tubing. The factory service manual suggests this for the fuel line connections and I can tell you from personal experience it works.

 

I replaced my fuel filter over the weekend and it sure starts a lot better. Less cranking.

 

I ended up using pipe thread tape on mine, along with the odd, copper flare tube washers that came with the filter. Doesn't leak so I'm good with it until next time. I'll try the motor oil thing then.

 

Easy-peasy lemon-squeezy. Used 19mm open wrench on the filter nut and 14mm crowsfoot wrench head on the flare nut. Had to wiggly and jiggle and bend quite a bit to get old one off, but getting new one in was easier. I left the gas cap off overnight and NO fuel came out after backing out the flare nuts. It was only after I started trying to remove the filter body itself that fuel spilt out. Also I think the filter I replaced @ ~170k must have been a replacement because the fuel that came out of it was crystal clear & clean. Oh well, at least I don't have to worry about it.

I put a little motor oil on the end of the pipe flare and on the flare nut threads. Torqued to 21ftlbs. IN did not leak but OUT had a bad leak, so I backed it out, threaded it back in and applied much more than 21 lbs of torque to stop the leak. Oh well, probably won't be replacing this thing ever.

There was a causality while torquing the OUT flare nut

That's how you know you tightened the flare nut enough.