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fuel tank cover

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by dakotakid23, Nov 9, 2016.

  1. Nov 9, 2016 at 3:26 PM
    #1
    dakotakid23

    dakotakid23 [OP] Member

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    95 toyota 4x4 extended cab 4 cyl white
    none bone stock
    Hey there fellow Toyota fans. My name is John and I am a newbie on this site. Actually I don't even know if what I am doing is correct as I have never belonged to a forum before. I just purchased a stock 1995 1st gen Toyota extended cab 4x4 (lil fart) and the fuel tank cover is there but where it attaches to the body is broken and it flops around. I am wondering how to fix or where I can find one to replace. I have been scouring junk yards but no luck yet. Checked Rock Auto and didn't see one (great parts site). Does anyone know where I may go to purchase one. Your help is appreciated.

    This is a great site for me as I know as old as lil fart is it will need some love.

    Thanks
    John
     
  2. Nov 9, 2016 at 3:38 PM
    #2
    Itchyfeet

    Itchyfeet Well-Known Member

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    I bought a new one from Toyota, but a little warning they're kind of spendy
     
  3. Nov 9, 2016 at 3:42 PM
    #3
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    is it the hinge that's broken?
    do you have pictures? There may be something to do about it
     
  4. Nov 9, 2016 at 3:44 PM
    #4
    dakotakid23

    dakotakid23 [OP] Member

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    Yes the cover is fine but the hinge assembly is shot it seems. I will get a picture of it and send.
     
  5. Nov 9, 2016 at 4:03 PM
    #5
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    A new assembly is expensive so I just used a magnet and bought a locking gas cap.
    20160301_111621.jpg
     
    swdavis likes this.
  6. Nov 10, 2016 at 12:50 AM
    #6
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Ok you need the Door for the gas cap.

    Mine tends to freeze sometimes in the winter the lock unlocks but the door is frozen I have ripped it off several times.

    I forget to spray it in time

    Each time I fix it with plastic weld two part epoxy till the next winter

    Maybe yours can be fixed that way as well
     
  7. Nov 10, 2016 at 6:39 PM
    #7
    BartMaster1234

    BartMaster1234 American Auto Horns

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    Tyler
    San Francisco, California
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    Flux Capacitor
    I have the same problem as you. You don't need a whole new door. You just need the cam lock assembly. Or hell, just the plastic arm. Mine snapped off. The full assemblies go for 50-60 dollars on eBay (albeit you'll need to get the lock cylinder re-keyed).

    This guy 3D printed a new locking arm.
     
  8. Nov 12, 2016 at 8:52 PM
    #8
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    Instead of buying a new lock assembly, maybe it is possible to glue a tab where the old one broke off?

    Or as the person above said, there is 3D printing. I resorted to this a few times to replace missing/broken buttons and knobs on my vintage boomboxes and synthesizers. It does wonders for these types of repairs
     
  9. Nov 15, 2016 at 7:50 AM
    #9
    dakotakid23

    dakotakid23 [OP] Member

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    none bone stock
    Thanks for all the ideas. I did a little more looking at it and on the hinge side the top round piece where the hinge rod goes through is missing. I think I can take the cover off and make one and braze it on, at least I am going to try that. If I cant get that to work I will start scouring the junk yards or finally order one from Toyota. The lock works fine.

    Also another question what weight gear oil for the front and rear differential, transmission (manual) and transfer case. I know they are most likely all different and with a 183K on the odometer and probably have never been changed I would like to do that.
     
  10. Nov 15, 2016 at 1:37 PM
    #10
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    The owner's manual says

    Differentials
    Front : 75W-90 (80W-90 if no A.D.D.)
    Rear : 80W-90

    Transmission (manual)
    75W-90

    Transfer Case
    75W-90
     
  11. Nov 16, 2016 at 10:23 AM
    #11
    dakotakid23

    dakotakid23 [OP] Member

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    none bone stock
    Thanks for the info. Really appreciate it. Here is another question, it has cruise control but doesn't work, I have checked all the fuses and all are good. What is the most likely culprit for it not working? Must be some electrical module someplace.
     
  12. Nov 16, 2016 at 12:20 PM
    #12
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    Can't help you for this one, unfortunately :/

    But I guess it has something to do with the cables that connects to the cruise control switch, inside the steering
     
  13. Nov 16, 2016 at 12:42 PM
    #13
    TacoDell

    TacoDell Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Donahoe CO's, Deaver leaf paks, Lockright Locker, All Pro body armor ( sliders, front and rear bumpers ), All Pro under belly skids, Warn M8K w/Masterpull synthetic line, Dual Optima battery system, 4 ea LightForce Striker 170 offroad lights, 8 ea wired rock lights, and plenty more I'm sure
    A failed CC could be due to multiple reasons...
    and would be difficult to diagnose
    without having the proper diagnostic tools and know how.

    The failure could be as simple as a faulty fuse...
    or a bad wiring connection.

    The CC feeds thru the spiral cable
    and that in itself could be of fault.
    Need pull the steering wheel cover to physically
    ensure that all wiring connections are intact.

    Do not mess with electrical components...
    unless first disconnecting the battery.
    A caused dead short can do more harm then good.
    Ya don't want to set off an air bag accidently :eek:

    Possibly the CC stalk or control unit itself could be faulty.

    Does the CC light on the dash emitt when setting the CC stalk ?
    Or is there no light... and dead is dead ?

    Any other electrical oddities occurring ?

    Determining electrical issues may require professional diagnosis...
    if you have little - no understanding or the proper diagnosis capabilities.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2016
  14. Nov 16, 2016 at 1:42 PM
    #14
    dakotakid23

    dakotakid23 [OP] Member

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    Yeah the light comes on when you engage the cc but you try to set the cruise while driving and nothing I have tried at slower speeds and hiway speed and nothing. The horn does not work either so maybe there is a connection loose somewhere, maybe.
     
  15. Nov 23, 2016 at 4:12 PM
    #15
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Is your truck a manual or automatic? Of its a manual the clutch pedal return spring is a well known issue. The bushings for the spring wear out causing the spring to not fully engage the CC switch causing the issue your explaning. I had this same issue.
     
  16. Nov 25, 2016 at 8:06 AM
    #16
    pray4surf

    pray4surf Well-Known Member

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    F&R suspension, OBA, Custom bed rack, RTT, rear frame plates, 4x4 conversion from prerunner, many other
    A defective rear brake light switch could also cause CC to stop working. Though, if the brake lights do illuminate when you press the peddle, then that's not the culprit. Follow @TacoDell 's advice
     

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