Fully polished TuRD

24.5" is better than mine. With those 37" tires, I'd be at 25". The lower and the wider the SAS is the more stable it is with these SAS's


3 things have to be looked at.....castor....perches.....pumpkin angle. Make sure they are all in harmony.
Kind of tricky to get 8 degrees castor with old school tie-rod under the leafpack when the 3.5 degrees shown here comes 1" away from tierod to leafpack. But if you do hi-steer it might be a non-issue. Did you decide on old school or hi-steer Slander? Never mind...reviewed old posts and saw you are doing hi-steer.

 

Yea i ended up buying a "slightly" used marlin hi steer setup for a 60. The pinion angle is set, now i just need to start burning parts onto here. Im still debateing weather to use a 220v machine or the 110v flux core machine that i did the frame build with to weld the knuckle balls back on. The 110v machine can blow holes in 3/16s so im thinking it has the balls to do it.

 

220v seems better.....

 

Sunday I burned the knuckle balls on, i used the 110v mig since i had to multipass them anyway, and due to my poor cutting i had a huge gap and was able to weld the inner sleeve of the knuckle ball to the axle. I am adding marlins knuckle ball gussets which wrap around the axle so im confident evreything will hold just fine.

I stiyched them on over the course of 4 hrs and had to go on a wild goose chase to find wire after i ran out after the first pass. So the axle had plenty of time to cool and to the best that i can tell is not warped... yet. I also finished welded the shackle mounts to the frame and tonight ill be burning the spring perches on the axle along with the knuckle gussets.

I also ordered a fail gear dual case cross member last night because f making my own. I also orderd some gussets for the fixed end spring mount and new TREs from ruffstuff so hopefully this week i can mock the steering box up. I should have it sitting on its own tires at the end of the week. The last big purchase will be my RCVs, but i may have some road miles on it first before those go in due to tight budgets.

 

Thanks for the updates.

 

Ill snap some pics tonight. Im just excited to be wrapping up the crappy welding in odd postions under the truck phase of the build, and moveing onto the fun stuff like building axles and setting up the suspension.

 

Slow progress tonight and not nearly as far as i want to be. Fighting with a welder being a bitch and mostly grinding rust off a diff cover between welding on the housing.

 

Slander,
My castor is @ 6.34 degrees but with a 3 link setup. Not sure if that makes a difference.

Are you using shock towers or hoops?

You're getting closer...

 

F250 towers. Hope to wrap up the knuckle gussets tonight.

 

ford shock towers rule !

 

This damn welder was fighting me again tonight, i have 2 more shock mounts, 2 more gussets and my transfer case cross member so it just needs to hold out for that!!!

Only thing left to weld on the axle is the diff protection. Its ready to have some weight put on it.

Im curious to see how much the knuckle balls moved around, if any from the welding. The camber is .5* more leaning in on the pax side and the castor is even at 5.92 or something like that pre welding, i have it written down. Wont be able to work on it again until the middle of next week, ill be putting it on its own weight, assemble the knuckles and put some tires on it and see how much fender i have to hack away.

ZUK f250 towers are awesome!

 

Awesome to see another toy axle flipped. What front diff armor are you going with?

 

The origional front cover cut into pieces and welded to the current cover.

 

Mocked up the axle, and put the knuckles, tires and wheels on it. I needed some motivation.


Diffs are getting setup tomorrow, and my new welders coming next week. The goal is this weekend to have the steering box all setup and holes ready to drill and work on little stuff like putting the ARP studs in the hubs, swapping out wheel bearing races, painting parts and crap like that.

 

Those tires give it a very aggressive look. Can't wait to see the steering all functional.

 

Thanks, its wider than i thought it was going to be. It actually very low slung, the angle i took rhe pic at makes it look taller than it is. With the tire cranked all the way over until the bump stops hit the axle (obviously impossible with the axle shafts in) the tire does not contact the frame or springs at all which is great! Btw those beads locks and tires were in an attic for close to 5 yrs and i didnt add any air to them before bolting them up, crazy for a beadlock not to leak down at all!!

 

Almost there man keep pushing!

 

That looks bitchin'.

Did the part numbers for the steering shaft I sent work for out you?
I finally fabbed them up and work great. If you need photos & measurements, PM me.

Nice work.

 

I have not started messing with the steering shaft yet, i will tackle that most likely this week. I need to get the box location set and all that first.

 

If the frame plate is long enough and thick enough then the "traditional" 3 large tubes thru the frame along with the 3 long bolts would not have to happen. A stronger more effective mounting with three 1/2" x 20 tapped holes can happen. Beware of TG stuff though