Fully polished TuRD

^^ Yeah, that looks sturdy as hell! Which box is that?

Below is what I currently have. The heim has since been centered on the shaft.

 

I'm using the late style on the right......for 89~95 pickups and 90~95 4Runners.

 

Hmm, I have the same series of box but my casting appears different than yours.

 

Zuk my frame is now 2x3 3/16 so cant do that.

Here is one for you @ZUK : so today i was setting up the diffs at my friends house. I have a 97 fj80 rear and a 1983 front fj60 axle and im using nitro 5.29s and solid spacers. 80 diff went together fine. But the 83 diff was giving us hell. We were able to get the pinion depth okay and get a good pattern however we could not get the pre load correct. Eventually we had all the shims removed and just the solid spacer in there and still were only able to get 1"lb of pre load. So we pulled it all apart and tossed a crush sleeve in there and could not get it to crush and we decided to call it a night at 1:30am. Sipping on a beer we were looking at the spacer and measured it on all sides and found a bulge at a seam making the spacer 2.191, instead of the 2.171 it was supposed to be. It was one seam messing us up the entire time! We validated it with my mitutoyo digimatic caliper thats fresh out of the box and it for sure was the spacer and not a cheap caliper error. Looks like tuesday ill be calling the vendor where i got my gears/gear setup supplies from and get a new spacer. The other odd thing about this 83 diff was it was fine spline with a factory solid spacer, have you ever seen that?

One step forward and one back!!

 

Well.....haven't seen a bulge yet....guess you have all the luck Slander

The FJ60's are normally fine spline. Coarse 10 splines could be found on FJ40 Landcruisers in the 70's. 70's cruisers also had solid collars built right in to the pinion shaft and they only took about .014" for pinion depth instead of the oem typical .050" in the 80's and 90's TLC.

 

I will post some pics later for you. Would that pinion depth also work for a 60 with a factory solid spacer?

We started with .050 and worked our way down until zero shims then the head scratching began!

 

Is it a bulge that can be flat sanded out? I use a flat surface and 100 grit paper and it's not at all uncommon for me to fine tune the solid collar. When I can't get the exact shim I need to get the target preload then I sand off .0005" or .001"

I also find an occasional collar that is not perfect all the way around ....ie: one area of a collar measures 2.089 and 90 degrees away is 2.092 so I mark it and aggressively flat sand on the 092 spot with more pressure on that spot to equalize the collar all the way around.

like this....and when I'm done, I flip it over and it's a meat/veggy cutting board. Multi-functional.

 

Ya, 050 for pinion depth should have been good for oem. If new Nitro Gears then .058".
Are yous sure the inner race was pounded all the way in?

 

All races were properly pounded in on the early style 60 diff. I may try sanding it down, it may be quicker than trying to exchange one with a vendor 2000 miles away.

 

The only trail gear parts being used are backing plate eliminators and the dual case crossmember. I am going to have to do the 3 tubes with the bolt methed. Im using the massive early bronco forward swing box, so we shall see how that works out.

 

Slander, when are you going to move this thread into the SAS folder?

 

LOL!!!

 

SAS folder....I second that.


Well slander.....You always have mount options.....I obviously don't think too much of the 3 tube thing because of the welding cracks that form on the 2 lower tubes on the inside.


The 7/8" tubes are just long enough on the inside to run a bead around them



In this pic below, even with the inside plate(not shown, early design) that is universally recommended, the tubes break free even if welded....the constant in/out motion of left and right steering stresses is just too much.
The inside plate stays welded but the 2 lower tubes break free on the inside. Weak design.







Now this guy used a thick plate and appears to have tapped all 3 places. That's beef. You can custom make your own plate using 3/8" plate and weld it to your 2 x 3 frame. The plate can be, as an example, 12" long by 4 inches tall and will interface just fine with a frame that is only 3" tall.

 

The builds here because i started it before my SAS. Intresting mounting, ill have to ponder that ZUK. I wont be running hydro assist at first so the box ripping itself free is in the back of my mind. Second is i was trying to figure out how to drill holes straight through my frame, and renting a mag mount drill was on my list. However drilling and tapping holes may be the ticket. I will have to ponder over a beer stareing at the truck later tonight. When i was gone working on my diffs last night my wife planned a party for monday so my truck wrenching time has went to nill lol!!

As for the collar i think we are going to put it on a milling machine and take .020 off of it.

 

Just tell the wife that building the truck is only for her happiness

 

Lol ive been telling her that i need it running to get supplies to finish our bathroom remodel! At the end of july we are going on a wheeling trip to south dakota for a week, so i have her thouroughly convinced that the shake down run will not be the 23hr one way drive there!!

 

So i went to mount my steering box today anf ran into a problem. I narrowed my frame up front about 3/4" and now due to where my axle is and the size of my big ass forward swing f150 box it hits the alternator. So i have a few options:
1) Space the box out on the frame, this option sucks because i dont have 220 at my house to weld a piece of metal that thick.
2) use an ifs box and run hydro assist and all its bs
3) convert the f150 box to rear swing. I have never taken a steering box apart so this maybe a recipe for disaster
4) use a forward swing toyota box and hope it doesnt interfere with the motor mounts.

Opinions?

 

can you post pics of the issue?

 

Slander,

It appears the best solution would be to borrow a 220 welder from a friend, next would be to reversing the swing, if that's possible.
Are you dead set against using the Toyota box?

 

Zuk ill get a picture later, in the mean time imagine a big ass steering box hitting the alternator lol.

I am definately not dead set against the ifs box, i just want to avoid hydro assist and the bs it can bring. They seem to etiher work flawlessly or are a major PITA and always breaking or leaking, no in between. I also do not have 220 at my house, no space in the panel, drywalled basement ceiling, and all gas appliances. So it would either be trailer to a friends, or mobile welder.

The other issue i may have is one of the steering box mounting bolts will be going right through my motor mount.

Scratch the convert the ford box to rear swing as it would then be into my radiator. This is a big bastard!!