Fully polished TuRD

One of the guys I wheel with have those and the tires suck. The wheels aren't bad though however they are 16.5" so your tire choices are limited.

 

Well marlin crawler got back to me and assessed the damage on my old trans in order to calculate how much of my core deposit I get back. The trans I pulled out had: a bad counter shaft, bad 1/2 shift fork and slider, a bad 2nd gear and most of the bearings were shot. The bad 2nd gear is odd since it was 1st that was giving me the problems. So good thing I didn't rebuild it myself since the cost and downtime would have spun out of control and probibly cost me more in the end. Bad part is I only get half my core back, but it is what it is.

 

^All things Tacoma seem to go that way, don't they?

 

This is really the first major component that has failed on the truck, and even then it was still "working" when i pulled it out, just not very well LOL!! I still think the root cause was the output seal leaking fluid over time into the crawler and causing me to run it without fluid for who knows how long. Last time i changed my trans fluid was 4yrs ago. My crawler used to leak a drip a day, then after my first gear went bang it leaked, more like sprayed ALOT, now after the trans swap not a drip.

I guess if its gonna fail, have it REALLY fail right?!?! lol!!

 

So much easier to find time to fix stuff when it "really" fails lol.

 

I appear to be missing something

 

And much easier to find the problem!

 

I FINALLY got this installed this week. The swap went relatively easy EXCEPT for the damn adjustable prop valve and residual valve from Daves offroad. The damn thing kept leaking at the fittings, i even swapped the lines out. I ended up leaving the adjustable prop valve and residual valve off and the brakes perform GREAT. With the residual valve in, the brakes would drag with the LSPV valve all the way up (full rear braking). It kept leaking so i ditched it and now its working great. The brakes with the stock taco master work great, i dont know what people complain about with low pedal and limited braking power. I also have a driveline vibe but i think that's because i used a u joint off a spare shaft of mine and then it would not take any grease, so i need to change that in the future. I drove the truck for 10 miles and deemed it ready for a 1000mile 4 day wheeling trip starting tomorrow LOL. I didn't take too many pics of the install since i was working and its pretty straight forward once the perches and what not are welded on. Please ignore the ghetto brake lines, those are getting fixed in the future.

See ya elocker axle, you have served me well!

Axle in:

Obligatory side shot

 

I fixed my driveline vibe by breaking my rear ujoint in a rock garden, it now drives smooth as glass with a new u joint in there. My spartan is being a prick, it randomly won't unlock even when pushing the clutch on going around corners, and it makes my crawl box make noise. I may drop the 3rd and see what's up. In all honestly I should have just spooled it. One more thing on the brakes, the stock taco mc performed flawlessly, the pedal feels great and brake balance is just about perfect using the lspv to adjust. If using an 80 axle the residual valve is not needed and the manual prop valve is a personal choice item. The 80 axle being a full float does not have the runout issues that the semi float disc swaps do, that's why the residual valve isn't needed with the 80ff.

 

Good stuff. Sub'd

 

Just an update on the spartan: The locker has quieted down a ton, and is alot more tame. It still occasionally lets off a nice BANG, and broncos around corners if you don't hit the clutch, but aside from that and a slight pull to the left when you stomp on the gas from idle, I can barely tell its there. I did drain the diff fluid and noticed a ton of metal shavings, however I'm going to flush the diff a few times and clean my magnetic fill plug off after evrey drive and see how that works. Fingers crossed its just from the locker, I don't hear any gear or bearing noise coming from the rear. Worst comes to worst I may be picking up another set of diffs for it, so ill have a spare and ill swap that diff in there.

 

Time for the hardcore mods today!!!

I need to slim my fat ass down so its a good time to break the bike back out. We have a of good trails and i hate being that douche riding my bike on the street to get there, so normally i have to toss them in the bed and it barely fits with the spare in there. I picked up a Delta fork mount on Amazon and mounted it to the tool box. I used two random bolts, one was a toyota driveshaft flange bolt and drilled some holes in my tool box lid. It wiggles around a bit, so im going to figure out a way to strengthen it up a bit, or wait until it breaks LOL. It good up to 70 and bike stayed on when i hit a speed hump doing 45, so its good in my book. I'm going to mount one to the other side for the wifes bike as well.


I may box in those two box sections, or make a plate to spread the load instead of relying on the fender washers.

Nice day for a ride LOL!!

 

So I'm planning on sas'ing this thing in the winter. As my buddy puts it I'll be doing a "hipster SAS" lol! Here's the plan:

Fj60, front axle, I don't know if im going to flip it to drivers drop or not. Ifs hubs and I'm picking the axle up next week.

JC Whitney waggy springs with an extra leaf tossed in them

Shackles forward

F250,shock towers with my 7100 shocks that are out back swapped to the front

F150, steering box so I don't have to mess with hydro assist

Front frame chop and rebuild to maximize up travel

37s with 5.29 gears and probibly a spartan locker. I may be able to keep it low enough to run my 33s for a bit.

Estimated cost is under 1200 bucks without tires and longs.

 

I think it might end up being more than 1200.

 

The re gear may bump it up to 2k depending on the deal I can find on gears.

 

I picked up the axle today. I got the front and rear fj-60 axles for 300 bucks, not a bad deal and got a set of rear fj60 springs tossed in for free. Im still trying to figure out what i want to do, i can either:

• Swap the front 60 axle in as is with some IFS hubs and convert my lefty back to a righty
• convert the rear axle into a front left hand drop axle using the knuckle balls and outer's off the front axle
• Flip the front axle, the result is the same as above but still narrow
• The guy also has a bent fj80 axle that he says i can have the balls and kuckles off of, i can weld those onto the rear 60 axle and have a 9.5" ring gear and beefy birfs, problem is i would need custom inners and still have to deal with the 80 axles stupid steering setup
• I also need to find out if using those fj60 springs SOA will work or if i should procure some waggy springs

Onto the pics:

 

Keep the mini truck outers! Get the new Front Range knuckles to boot too. But honestly considering you've broken like 1 cv on ifs, you will be fine with 30 spline mini truck RCV's and 37's.

I know you are hipster but some shit just works

 

Wow!Nice build thread slander(OP)!

 

LOL, John coined the term hipster SAS not me ahahaha! I like those new front range knuckles for sure. Ill have to see if i can even fit histeer on there once i get to that point or just run low steer. Im not worried about running the mini truck stuff, i was just thinking evil thoughts when Derrick said i can have that axle. I may just grab it anyway for when i build a true wonton or run it in the back....

Oh and im going to run those fj60 springs up front, F it lets be different!!

 

Thank you, there's a bunch of stuff i left out, but its mostly boring stuff evreyone does.