Fully polished TuRD

I don't remember the sound which is probably good. How does it fit under there?? Does it open up some realestate? My traction bar is going to have to go right where the stock 55gal drum sized muffler is.

 

Take a look at the pictures in the first part of my build thread and you can see it around my traction bar. It's really small and can be tucked just about anywhere behind the tcase

 

Trucks still on jackstands with holes in the frame, but i bought some new tires LOL. 37" TSL radials on trail ready beadlocks, need to find a time to pick them up....

 

Hey Slander-
I'm following your thread......that rust can be conquered....just takes alot of metal and weld probably.....as long as there is some metal left to weld to........
Have you thought any more about that flip? Even if you keep the FJ60 on the right side you still need to break the welds for the knuckles and leaf perches to set castor and aim the pinion at the transfercase.....at that point, to flip it you need to surgically cut off the cover and grind 4 notches inside the hole. You can join the small group of "flippers"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUubj-KGECA


Ken

 

ohhh....forgot to mention.....as you know, the FJ60 has the monster 9.5" ring gear and I hear the housing itself is "thicker" but the weak point that I see is the mini-truck birfs. A good solution is to spend $645 and get the RCV Ultimate 30 Spline CV Axle Set and as a bonus, you get a free set of 4340 inner hub gears ($110 value)
http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=CVJ2851-PLC60

http://www.rcvperformance.com/product-details.aspx?sku=D2882-SET

That's all it would take to make the front as strong as the rear 30 spline axles. No more birf breakage. To "upgrade" the strength of the other types of axles would take considerably more than just a one time outlay of 645.

 

ZUK: I have frame plates, a frame boxing kit and some extra steel, it will be conquered, i just need to find the time. I am probibly going to flip the axle, for the reasons you mentioned, and i do not feel like messing with cases for the upteenth time it seems. I already have a long side inner old school long, a member on here is going to send me short side inner, and my friend is an RCV dealer for the birfs, so i should be able to piece together a 30spline front end for cheaper than $500. I am not worried at all about the strength of the front once i get the 30spline birfs in there.

Did you have any warpage issues welding on the housing?

 

I wouldn't be either. I beat the heck out of my truck on 39.5's with an fj60 front and rcv's. I still have that chromo shaft for you by the way. I'm probably just going to go with TG 4.7's so I don't have to get a new adapter. If my 21 spline hasn't broke yet I don't think the 23 will. Would be nice to do the marlin chromos but its probably not needed in all honesty

 

Yup I wheel with a group with all Toyota fronts and the only issue that any of them have is the occasional broken third on an 8", or bent housing.

Yea I got to pm you about about that shaft, but its been an expensive month lol. Chromo tcase gears are overated for what we do!

 

Just in-case you are wondering, 4 37's will fit in the bed of a tacoma.

 

Bent housing hmmm....wonder if that is as likely with the FJ60 housings. They sure feel heavier to me when I was lugging one around to the shop.....either that or my 59 years is catching up to me. Seriously though, I was under the impression they are a thicker housing than the 79~85 housings. That would be a very good thing for anybody running over 35" tires and wheel spacers. I will stay with 35" to maintain my sleeper status ha ha.....



FJ60 inner axle lengths......
OEM/RCV Right Inner Axle Length: 17.13"
OEM/RCV Left Inner Axle Length: 31.31"



mini-truck inner axle lengths.....
OEM/RCV Right Inner Axle Length: 15.13"
OEM/RCV Left Inner Axle Length: 31.31"




Chromo gears in the tcases( chromemoly couplers)....nice idea but not needed like you say if the ring/pinion is appropriate for the tire size. Guys were thinking in the past that the factory 410 gears were stronger than the 529 (or 571) ratios so they would figure the double cases with a 4.7 in the front one would let them run 410 gears with their 39" boggers just fine. Problem is the 410 ratio/monster tire combo causes a back-up in the driveline stresses....you know what I mean....like when you go to Filibertos...and the toilet sees the back-up real quick.

 

ZUK they do feel heavy, then again the only Toyota axles i have handled have been landcruisers, so they all feel heavy to me LOL.

In case anyone cares: I test fitted the tires, looks like ill need at least a 1" spacer out back and to cut most of the backing plate off to fit 15" wheels over the 80 disc brakes. Bronco steering box has been ordered!

 

My stock master cylinder is working just fine with the rear disks like you said!

 

Awesome!

 

No warpage that I know of.....and I welded pretty good on the surfaces for a good amount of time....welded the front cover back on with a continuous bead......perches(twice on passenger side)...knuckle rotation..... and no issues with sliding the birfs in afterwards or no steering issues like pulling left or right. The alignment I had done afterwards at Sears confirmed that the housing is good by having good camber numbers. All is good.
Hell, I just thought of it and there was probably more heat on that housing just from the torching off of all the perches/brackets. No issues.

 

Good to hear ZUK!

My rear frame is mostly patched, I welded on some frame plates to the outer frame rails, and its seriously like a new truck. I take back everything I said bad about the spartan locker, pre frame plateing it would buck and bronco around every corner tighter than an offramp. After frame plateing I have to stand on the gas while turning to get the tires to chirp. Apparently I was getting some weird frame flexing that the locker didn't like.

I got my ford box, now I need to figure out what kind of fittings I need to adapt it to the Toyota stuff and make some hoses. I have a hi lux pan in the mail, and just need to save my pennies to order up my steering parts, then its chop time!!

 

Got my oil pan. Its off some forgein model v6 toyota something or other. All i know is that its rear sump, has a cool indentation for my axle and will bolt up to a 3.4. I got it off a dude on pirate for 40 bucks, cant beat that.

Just about cut my finger off cleaning off my axle, i fucking hate my grinder. Got the diff cover cut off for the axle flip, along with the steering stops and some other little crap.

 

wow....its got the dent on the driver side of the oil pan...perfect for extra clearance on the flip. Nice catch.

Glad to see you are flipping out. Gonna rotate the knuckles a little?

 

Flipping out indeed ZUK! Knuckle flip and rotate is a given, I just need to get a better grinder first. It has no guard and kicks all over the place. Those notches in the housing for the gears are a surprising pain in the ass to cut!

The factory denting on that pan is nice for sure, it will save me some time with me not having to do it lol.

 

whens the flatbed build?

 

Not anytime soon. I need to SAS it first, I also need to keep some truck usefulness to it. The plan is to run the full bed until I either rip it off the truck or it caves in lol.