Fully polished TuRD

Knuckle balls cut off along with the diff cover, there's no going back now LOL!!

 

Cost so far, ill just keep updating this post:
Axle: 150
IFS Hubs: Free
Brackets (ruffstuff): 250
Fj60/62 Springs: Free
Steering yoke and fittings: 50
Steering box: 300
Oil pan/pickup tube used off a hilux: 60 bucks
Aussie locker used: 200
1 Bobby Long side axle shaft: 25 bucks (bought a pair and sold the short side)
1035 so far.

I need to order up my steering parts from FROR, that will break the bank pretty good.

I already have my tires and wheels, those were $1000.

 

Wow....glad to hear you're committed! Like all the savings you have going on there. Hi steer is kinda pricey....ever considered old school low steer?
If you document the placement of the arms, send them to me, then I will weld them for free. Just pay the shipping to get them back to you.


http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbth...e:_ZUK-Coils_ultimate_test....html#Post909059

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbth...e:_ZUK-Coils_ultimate_test....html#Post909071

 

Zuk let me get back to you on that one, that sounds like a sweet deal!! I was looking at your thread and was going to attempt it however I dont trust my welding skills, ripping brackets off the frame is one thing, grenadeing a steering arm on the street is another. The placement would be the same as yours. I like the idea of lowsteer as that's less junk in the way above the springs. Flip side of course is that the tie rod is exposed to rocks and my crappy driving lol. What parts would you need? The stock 60 arms and what else?

As for the cost it started out with me being a cheap ass, now it's a kind of a game to hunt for deals and build this as "cheap" or as cost effective as possible and show you can swap a truck for less than 10k and still have a stout setup. Then again this could all blow up on the first ride lol.

 

Agreed! I have less than $9k in my whole truck including the turbo setup

 

When the leafs are on and the passenger arm is hard left turned, I need to see a few pics of it and see the clearances with the pack. Post pics when the time comes and let's see..

 

I would need the unmolested passenger arm and another spare arm that I could cut off...it could be off of a busted mini-truck j-arm.....or the passenger or driver arm of an fj60 or mini-truck. On a sidenote, do you have any small parts that are desired to have cryo treated?

 

OK. I'll find a spare arm. I may be swapping this thing sooner than later then since steering Is all I'm waiting on and I'll Need to get the axle under there to get the measurements. I'll need to look through the parts pile for parts that need cyo treating if any.

 

@ZUK will a pax side fj80 arm work for you? Thought being its already taperd for the fj 80tre.

Figures my friends tossed all their stock miji truck arms so I need to go scrapeing on the net lol!!

 

either side will work ....80 or 60 or pickup. I can flip the arm that I cut off to get the TR to install from the top if I want to.
Have you already rotated the knuckles to get your desired 5~6 degrees?

I'll be able to make yours even a better fit for the spaces provided by comparing it to mine......mine is the farthest thing from perfect.
could have/should have positioned the top arm LOWER....closer to the leaf but yours will be. In a full left turn the TR should be
almost touching the leaf.....maybe miss it by 1/2" for good measure.
http://www.yotatech.com/f152/2001-t...onsiderations-283930/index4.html#post52261764

 

Trucks not swapped yet, still on IFS and the axle is in 3pieces on the floor lol!! But yes definitely plan on the caster set up. Is 5-6 what is recpmended? I'll try to get an 80 arm so that way I don't have to ream it after you weld it to the 60 arm. On the 80 arm the tre goes in the top of the arm since they are that goofy u shape that mounts to the bottom of the knuckle.

 

I think they are all reamed the same....whether it be Pickup or 60 or 80. Anyways, we'l figure out what is the best placement of the upper arm.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Land...ash=item5d5ef6c179:g:BlgAAOSw5VFWQlsT&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/79-80-81-82...ash=item2ca15e8c6e:g:m94AAOSw4SlV714V&vxp=mtr

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/79-85-Toyot...ash=item210775bf87:g:rioAAMXQVERStOxj&vxp=mtr

 

Really? I was told they were not? Weird.

 

Well, in my build, I used the J-arm from a pick-up......the stock passenger arm from the 60.......and a Marlin DOM drag link with FJ80 tie-rod ends and they all went together just fine as far as taper.

 

Sweet good to know!!

 

Finally finished grinding on this axle today, now its time to start putting stuff back together.

Holes ground for the ring gear:


Getting close. All i need is the steering shaft figured out, a knuckle rebuild kit, steering hoses, steel for the new front frame, and a custom pitman arm made and its ready to be swapped so i can get measurements for ZUK to build my steering arm.

 

Nice...you got the knuckles off. Any problems getting them to fall off?

As far as the measurement I need ....it really only one that I need but you have to have the perches tacked in place and I would only need a measurement from the tie-rod to the top of the leafpack. That is in a full left turn....that's the closest point that the pack gets to the draglink.

That means the pumpkin needs to be pointed at the transfercase and the perches set. I'll assume 4 degrees of castor. You don't have to weld the knuckles on fully yet. May want to save that for the very end when you're sure about all the placements. Ideally the front should be on jackstands and the full weight on the leafpacks. That means you have to attempt to locate the mounts on the frame for the packs.

Regarding welding the front diff cover back on...... You may want to tack that also. There's some vagueness in getting it centered perfect....what if you fully welded it on and you had me put in Nitro gears which are thicker on the ring.....what it the teeth hit the cover ..................... Yuck.