Fully polished TuRD

Video of my junkpile crawling
https://youtu.be/k-rRjb0_aQM

 

Tomorrow I'm going to measure for the new rear frame rails, apparently the PDF I sent over to the shop with all the frame specs from Toyota didn't have what the shop needed.

 

Tech time, so here is how I measured for the new rear frame rails. I first picked a belly height to level the truck off at, I went with 23 1/4" as that's what it measured out to at the tcase cross member, so right under the driver's seat.


The truck looks like it's not level but that's because my truck is banana shaped starting at the rear body mount.
Then I busted out the plumb bob and started marking up the floor



I then measured to the top of the frame and between each point.

I only measured off the driver's side and that what looks the most straight. Funny thing is after leveling the truck out, I measured the frame at the rear shackle mounts on each side and it was within 1/8", @Robertocritser and I's frame straightening on a trailer actually worked LOL!!

I'm going to convert all those measurements over to a diagram in powerpoint and send to the shop to get 2x4x.188 rails bent out of a single piece of tube.

 

I was comparing the factory frame diagram and the measurements they have and apparently my frame has 3"+ of rear droop which is nuts!

 

I looked at the factory frame diagram I had out of the fsm and noticed my rear most frame rail point was only a 4" and change difference from where the bend begins. It's supposed to be 7". So back to the garage:

I got it within 2" and just added the rest to the numbers I'm sending over. It's getting a butt lift when this is all said and done

 

Parts are coming together, picked up my frame rails today from sschassisworx:

I have air bumps coming from another member on here, I found some local Chevy 63s I just need to find some time to go lay in a snake filled field to cut them out of the truck, get some misc steel and an engine hoist and it's chop time! Almost there!!

 

Damn cool seeing it get bent up like that for you to swap and weld in.

 

Yea it should save me a ton of time measuring, cutting and plating. Not a bad price either at $250 a rail, well worth it for me time wise.

 

So the cutting started and ended today:

Hour before surgery

Damn why haven't I gotten an engine hoist sooner??

Just about there.....

The truck just got lighter


FU Toyota and years of being in the Midwest


Went pretty smooth, no real drama except portabands are awesome but not ideal for cutting off sliders....

 

Wow, your truck weighs the same as mine with all the shit in it for a weeks worth of camping.

 

Yea that kind of surprised me as I really don't have all kinds of overland bullshit hanging all over it. Cruiser axles must be heavy.

 

I'm about as light as a truck gets for multi week camping type shit too. I don't much care for all the extras like some do

 

Watching this closely for ideas, and progress. I like the idea and considering something very similar. That 2ton HF hoist is on the I need list.

 

Sschassisworx in NC ships and they have the plans!! Ill share them provided this isn't a total shit show to anyone that wants them

This hoist is badass for sure!!

 

Absolutely, short trip shipping wise from NC to MD. I think it's a good platform better than boxing the frame and being able to weld on an antiwrap bar, etc.

 

Did I miss something? How much does @slander s truck weight?

 

Last line of his post that I quoted says he weighed out at 4740#

 

Oh I missed that

The HF 2 ton hoist is clutch for the bed, but can't do a topper and bed all still attached....

 

Weightwise it can but you still have to find a way to lift from within. I took a topper off with it once and it was a pain in the butt cuz the weight is just in a bad spot but with the bed it would actually probably keep it bottom weighted still

 

sawzall with steel demon blades work best for me on sliders