Fully polished TuRD

These are the only pics I have. I just slid it into the stock rail a little bit and welded the top and outside of the 2x3 to the stock frame, then just cut pieces to fit and make the "transition" from the stock frame to the new 2x3.

 

Cool thanks, make sense! Those pics help.a ton, thanks!

 

Any updates on this thing?

 

No, i was playing around with the welder I borrowed on Friday of last week, and then it was house mods all last weekend. I just got back into town last night after a week long work trip and hope to do some work to it this weekend once i wrap up the house project. My 5.29s did come in, and I'm waiting on back ordered knuckle gussets from marlin. I hope to get the frame rails on either this weekend or next week and get the gears setup. Not looking forward to pulling out the rear third with the position the trucks parked in the garage.

A lot of time was sucked up stripping parts off the truck after the frame was cutoff and removing the usable IFS parts from the old frame, that was like an evening each working solo

 

Just a heads up bit I've heard the fitment on the marlin gussets is terrible. A buddy threw them away and ordered TG.

 

good times, my toyota geek friends told me to get those. Worst comes to worst ill cut some up with a plasma cutter, or ideally my buddy will have his plasma table up and running to make me some.

 

Heard that. Yeah their design is Awesome, just heard they don't fit well. Hopefully you get lucky!

 

I expect to have to modify them no matter what due to the kunckle balls coming off and getting reattached.

 

You've got a point there lol

 

Marlin backordered on something....no way

I'll be in the hood in the next weekend or two of you need a hand

 

They showed up, except low range doubled my order.... the gussets look nice!

Conner give me a call when you are in the hood, i plan to be working on this pos!

 

FROR has them too. Give Brian a call.

 

Finally had some time to work on this thing. It was a day of setbacks, i dragged the 60 rear into the garage to remove the diff cover to use that for the front. After wrestling with that pos for an includeing an exxon vadez style oil spill, the diff cover wont work. I also stripped that heavy bastard down and yanked the 3rd. Next i figured i would work on something easy and swap the steering studs on the knuckle... well after another 1hr of welding on nuts, applying heat, and impacting them off i got ths studs off, but managed to booger up a hole on each side. Orderd a tap and packed it in for the evening. I did measure for plates for welding on the frame rails. Ill have to order those and get them deleverd tomorrow. I plan on building the frame rails this weekend.

And i refilled the oil before i forgot, unmodded dipstick in the stock spot read dead nuts on. I wish i knew what truck model the oil pa came off of, its some forgein model, not a t100..

 

Fixed the knuckle stud holes today and installed the new studs. I also did some frame mockups trying to decide if i should inboard the front frame rails a bit (.75" or so), if i inboard them he steering box may hit the alternator. I also pulled the rear 3rd out, i cant say enough how much i love full float rear axles, i didnt even have to jack it up!

 

I actually started putting stuff back together this weekend (well yesterday). Frame rails and front crossmember are built and heavy tacked into place, and the diff cover is now on my front axle. The frame is a bit narrow, high and tight! This week im going to take my time and mock up and build the reinforcement plates and finish weld the front frame and motor mounts. More tech and pictures coming tonight. Welding 3/16s to the factory tin foil frame SUCKS BTW. The drivers side tacked in fine, on the pax side i kept blowing through the factory frame, while barely burning into the 3/16s, GRRRR....

 

Coming along... good news.

Yeah... the frames are thin for sure. I recommend you add another cross member?

I have another just in front of the oil pan. It does not go straight across, say parallel to the bumper... it sits at a slight angle. It took away the small amount of flex I had which happened while turning the wheels while parked.

If you need a pic, I'll snap one later today.

 

I was thinking about adding one right under the core support, at the very least to help support my winch. A pic would be cool, i dont know where another crossmemeber would go? All the real estate from the grill back will be occupied by radiator, steering and the oil pan.

 

Welded on the diff cover. This is a diff cover off a rear fj 60 that i had, the rears have a removable cover. I could not make this one removable. The stock cover that i cut off this axle had too many gaps to fill with weld. I'm going to clean the cover up and add some plating to it.

Frame rail tacked on side shot. The rails are 42" long 2x3 3/16 and they go 2" into the factory frame rail.

The front sticks 8" out from the core support. Thats enough to hold my m8000 with a few inches to work with.

Front shot. The frame rails are up against the core support on the body and butted up against the radiator mount. I wanted to get them squeezed in and as high as possible.

Flux core tacked awesomeness, added the angles to get some more surface area on the weld.

 

Nice stuff there...

Here are 2 pics of my cross member from beneath:



I still need to paint it and many other areas. If you need measurements, let me know.

 

Was it flexing from the steering box? It looks like how the jeepers would reinforce the frames to prevent the boxes from tearing off.