Gear Head's 82 Pickup Build

I'm just moving my shocks as a temp fix till I pick up some 5125's. I'm running a factory 3 leaf pack with the overload for now. I have another leaf from when I did my tacoma so eventually I'll ditch the overload and throw the other leaf in. Mounting the shocks like /\ provides more travel from a shorter shock. Since it's at an angle, an inch of axle travel does not equal an inch of shock travel. The only downside is that since they aren't mounted perpendicular to the axle you lose dampening on the street.

I need to look into how you did yours. My lspv leaks pretty bad.

Please... my shit don't stank! You making any progress on yours or is it just wasting away?

 

Yeah I know about the efficiency thing & the travel thing..

I'm running 5125s 12" shocks front and rear.. They are pretty stiff shocks, but they ride nice up front. My rear suspension is way too stiff..

I'm trying to stay low, like 2-3" of lift and 35s.

 

Would you by chance happen to know the frame height of a stock pickup?

And judging by the pics you've posted, 63's should make a world of difference out back for you.

 

Damn badass truck man

 

Thanks bud!

 

The LSPV delete is pretty simple. There is a T fitting on the frame in the passenger front wheel well; you can either unbolt the line feeding the T and bolt the passenger front soft line to it, or remove the line in the rear of the T going to the LSPV and block that port in the T with a plug. Leave the 90* fitting next to it alone.

What that does is remove the return line from the LSPV, you can unbolt it and chuck it, and run the rear soft line directly to the hard line that comes from the 90* fitting.

Go look at the fittings in the wheel well, and the 2 lines going to the LSPV and you should see what I mean.

 

It's just wasting away in my car port. It will sit like that until January.

 

I can find out.. I think I measured, but forgot to write it down.

Yes they should.. I'm really enjoying upgrading everything a little at a time and making it further and further each time I wheel. I'll probably crap myself when I get lockers because I can already keep up with every single rear locked rig I wheel with. I think wheeling my truck at each stage of my build has made me a better driver and more comfortable behind the wheel of my truck. I know exactly how it handles everything I throw at it & I love it.



The LSPV delete is very easy. I unbolted the LSPV from my frame & axle, then ran my stainless steel brake line directly from the hard line by the frame to the T fitting on the axle. I just need one of those manual valves to put up by the master cylinder.

 

Good deal, I'll have to make time to knock that out sometime.

What decision did you make on how to go about fixing the diff and doing the suspension?

Yeah if you could see if you wrote it down that'd be great! I'm curious to know how I compare.

I agree with you about becoming a better driver by wheeling at each stage. I realized how important that was at The Flats. My driving skills still have some catching up to do with the truck's capabilities. I never really wheeled before this truck so I started with a mildly built truck that was already locked/welded.

 

Got out in the garage for a little bit tonight.

 

Sweet!

 

This is as close as I could find.. It sounds like he's on 32x11.5 or 33x12.5 based on the fact that his tires measured 31.5"
& he's a long bed which means a tad more weight, but it really should mess with the measurements much.

Year - Stock 84
Model - Long bed Standard Cab
Height to front spring hanger - 24"
Height to very rear of frame - 31"
Height to bottom of frame under door - 19"
Height of transfer case skid plate (or just case if no skid) - 13"
Height of tires at "X"PSI - 31.5"
Height to bottom of front diff - 10"
Wheelbase - 113"

I would like to take the above measurements and compare them to yours though.. Just see the height difference.

We could figure out the actual lift high difference (excluding tire size) by subtracting the height difference to the "bottom of the front diff" because that's the only thing tires effect. So if your 3" higher at the diff then we'll knock 3" off every other measurement and see our true difference.

As of right now, I feel like I am on par with my trucks capabilities. I actually think I have become a more capable driver than it is a truck, but so far I have been able to drag it along pretty well. When I get lockers and lower gears, it'll take me awhile to catch up again.

 

I can pull a few of those tomorrow or this weekend. I know my frame height is right around 26 1/2".

 

Damn I hate welding sheetmetal with a passion... I'll finish up the bedsides tomorrow.

I have to figure out the tail gate but it's looking like quite the challenge.

 

I've got a Barnes cover that will get welded on. I picked up a 4.10 complete 3rd from Andy. The suspension is not getting cut out yet due to funds. New bushings will replace the old ones though. I am getting a little extra fab work done, but I gotta keep some mystery

Oh yeah valve 2 is starting to burn so there is another headache. I picked up a new to me 22RE though.

 

Can you take the guts out, measure how much needs to be cut, divide that in half to cut each end of the tailgate by, and cut up the linkage in the tailgate to fit?

 

sounds like you need some motivation

 

I'd try to keep the toyota and cut out the rest . Of course you would need to measure and see if that would work . Bedside look awesome .

 

If I wouldn't have doved so much then yes, that would be the way to do it. There's not enough room between tail light and the hinge to weld the outer section back on. I have already cut the tailgate to width and I'm going to notch the inside and put the latch section behind the skin. I have it worked out in my head haha.

This is what I have so far.

Nice! I love seeing pics from when it was yours!