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Gear oil question

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Hektor, May 11, 2015.

  1. May 11, 2015 at 10:20 AM
    #1
    Hektor

    Hektor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I have a question I'm gonna change the rear and front diff and transfer case. I'm going with 75w 90 for the rear and transfer case either valvoline synthetic or Mobil 1. For the front conventional 85w 90. Are those good choices??? Thanks
     
  2. May 11, 2015 at 10:22 AM
    #2
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    It refers to a 2nd gen, but I was cautioned to never use synthetic in the diffs. FWIW
     
  3. May 11, 2015 at 10:45 AM
    #3
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    The "go to" differential people around my neck of the woods,,,, they build diffs for racing, pulling, etc. name is Pyle brothers, Baytown, Tx,,, call them, they'll tell you why they will not put synthetics in diffs.
     
  4. May 11, 2015 at 11:08 AM
    #4
    Hektor

    Hektor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is this for 1st gen tacomas??? My local mechanic told me the same thing he uses coastal gea oil I don't know if it's a good choice or not.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
  5. May 11, 2015 at 11:31 AM
    #5
    pulldo

    pulldo Well-Known Member

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    They do the same thing for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. Don't know that much about coastal products, but if it meets or exceeds the manufacture then it should be good, I tend to stick with more name brand lubes.
     
  6. May 11, 2015 at 11:36 AM
    #6
    slander

    slander Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious to hear why you don't put synthetics in a diff, and no im not calling some random shop in bum hell texas. I know that you are not supposed to break in diffs with synthetics and if you plan on changing it often run conventional. I always used synthetics in my rear diff, whatever i had in the garage for the front, and synthetic in the crawler and tcase. I have coastal in my rear diff right now because it keeps making metal shavings and im flushing the diff evrey 500miles to get them out, since i think they are from when i built the axle.
     
  7. May 11, 2015 at 11:40 AM
    #7
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Sometimes when I close my eyes, I can't see.

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    Love to hear the logic. Not saying there isn't any, but I'd love it hear it.

    Ran syn in many a RWD Japanese diff, never a problem. 3 were GT cars, so not really launched too hard, but one was my street driven SoloII car, and it had 100k on it with zero issue............ and Mobil One.

    As long as the product of choice meets or exceeds the spec'd API, GL and weight rating, I can't imagine why there would be a problem. But I'm willing to listen. To facts and chemistry. Got any?
     
  8. May 11, 2015 at 2:36 PM
    #8
    Hektor

    Hektor [OP] Well-Known Member

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  9. May 11, 2015 at 2:40 PM
    #9
    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    I've used AmsOil synthetic gear oil in all my vehicles differentials and transmissions, no problems. I had to put limited slip additive in my Ford F250 with limited slip rear axel. Test results show AmsOil synthetic to provide better lubrication and longer life than conventional oils and other synthetics.
     
  10. May 12, 2015 at 4:46 PM
    #10
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    When I had the 4.56s installed at ECGS, in person, they specifically said it wasn't a good idea and the most rebuilds for diffs they had for tacomas was all synthetic gear oil. I'm not smart enough to know why it's not a good idea for the diffs but I will call and try to get a better explanation ("facts and chemistry" :) ) to better my knowledge and hopefully spread some around.
     
  11. May 12, 2015 at 4:59 PM
    #11
    EricU

    EricU Well-Known Member

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    the only reason i could see why not to use synthetic is if it has a friction modifier or something that will cause glazing or slippage in a Limited slip differential, if its Open or a locker without friction pads or any kind, i cannot see any reason why synthetic would be bad.

    for what its worth, in my old 2nd gen LT 4x4 i ran mobil 1 synthetic in both diffs, transfercase and the engine oil too if i changed my own oil, but mostly used the free oil changes from toyota while i was traveling with the truck.
     
  12. May 12, 2015 at 5:51 PM
    #12
    drr

    drr Primary Prognosticator

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    Yes, they say that on the bottle to let you know that the required friction modifier for limited-slip differentials has already been added. It will not harm your non-LSD differential (whether open or with a locker).

    I've run Mobil1 full synthetic in the differentials and transfer cases of all my vehicles, it has never been an issue and I've never had premature wear because of it. Supposedly the synthetic oil will break down more quickly in the presence of water, so if you take your truck swimming, make sure you change the gear oil shortly after. I ran conventional gear oil when I was breaking in my thirds from ECGS, but after the break in period it was back to synthetic.
     
  13. May 13, 2015 at 7:38 PM
    #13
    bellassaiw10

    bellassaiw10 Formally afroman5015

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    I think also synthetic is more susceptible to breaking down if water gets in which is likely in a diff if you off-road heavy. Could be wrong but makes sense I guess. I run synthetic haven't had a problem but I also don't just put it in a leave it forever. Anything will work if you routinely at least check it and drain as recommended for your use. FWIW I ran Royal Purple my first go around since it's all I had. Made finding a leak easy :D but was way too pricey for my liking. Went with Mobil 1 this time around. I could see where synthetic could get real expensive if you changed it religiously.
     
  14. May 14, 2015 at 1:45 PM
    #14
    Skootter14

    Skootter14 Upon my signal, unleash Hell

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    so, the explanation I got was although the synthetic cleans very well, it does not "cling" to the gears like conventional. Since the gears in the diff are only 50-60% submerged, the synthetic does not stay on the gears above the oil as well as conventional. Therefore, the regular coats the gears better, presumably doing a better job at keeping the gears oiled properly for use. It makes sense to me. I also agree if you change change the diff fluid often it probably wont matter as much, but synthetic is more pricey. I asked why ECGS suggests the 85W-145 and he said it was due to temps in the diffs, the thicker viscosity takes longer to heat and once heated, hits the optimum temp to run the gears in as opposed to the thinner oils which are good just sitting but become too thin and too hot quickly, defeated the purpose of the oil. (Thinner gear oil coupled with synthetic over longer periods of time, to me, is what builds the equation for more problems with diffs). I know people can debate this all day and that is not at all my intent, I just hope this helps someone down the road. It makes sense to me and is why I will stick to this weight of oil. No harm no foul.
     
  15. May 14, 2015 at 1:54 PM
    #15
    taco206

    taco206 Well-Known Member

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    I used the valvoline oil in my 05 Tundra rear diff with lsd. It wasn't driving that good, just felt like it was engaging kind of hard, kinda "kicking" from stop lights. That fluid made it drive much smoother. Good stuff.

    And to all the people saying this or that oil is better or worse. JUST PUT IN NEW OIL THAT TOYOTA CALLS FOR AND END IT! Conventional will do fine if you're too scared to use synthetic. Maybe do a syn blend? You aren't driving an AWD Porsche after all.

    You could kill half your brain cells and waste 5 hours of your life going through some of these moronic threads.
     
  16. May 14, 2015 at 2:08 PM
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    cosmicfires

    cosmicfires Well-Known Member

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    Exactly taco206.
     
  17. May 19, 2015 at 9:39 AM
    #17
    opteron

    opteron Well-Known Member

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    I used 75-90 Valvoline synthetic for transfer case and both differentials. I did this myself spend about 80 dollars in fluids(still have some left) and saved 300 dollars. Dealer wanted 380 dollars and some change. Just make sure you don't spill any in the garage(only level ground) the odor is very over powering.

    I also used Valvoline maxlife transmission oil I paid for this to be done. 17 qts of oil was to much for me to handle.
     
  18. May 19, 2015 at 10:41 AM
    #18
    tan4x4

    tan4x4 Well-Known Member

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    Factory LSD for Tundras are clutch-type, so they'll work better with the friction modifier, no arguement there.

    Otherwise, from what I gather, from threads like these, there doesn't seem to be any difference, performance-wise for differentials and transfer cases, between synth and dino. IMHO, I think guys switch to synth, because its the cool thing to do, even though it may double the cost, and everyone wants to be cool, right? Just like those 'cool-looking' head lights (projectors, HID, etc). No practical reason other than showing off to their buddies, and blinding oncoming drivers.

    Just my 2 cents worth :crapstorm:
     
  19. May 19, 2015 at 11:47 AM
    #19
    opteron

    opteron Well-Known Member

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    It was only 1 dollar difference from dyno to synthetic using Valvoline. Mobile1 was a lot more money including royal purple.
     
  20. Jul 30, 2016 at 8:51 AM
    #20
    ElTacoma

    ElTacoma Well-Known Member

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    can anyone else confirm this? I bought some mobil-1 non-LS additive from Amazon and they sent me a bunch of WITH LS additive. Will it F- up my T-case as well?

    thank you
     

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