geekhouse23's "LIFE'S WAITING TO BEGIN" Overland & Home build and all the Adventures in between!

I thought that too. Seems like you would need it to figure out where to mount it, angles etc..

 

The shock towers are supposed to be a 9 degree angle forward (both sides) but on one side it hits the bed so we could only get it to 7 degrees. Not a big difference but little things like that, i'd hate for you to get it welded up then try to put the bed on and find out it hits the shock towers.

 

@SoutheastOverland can y'all help him out with what degree and angle and all that is needed for the BAMF shock relocation

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/b-a-m-f-2nd-gen-rear-shock-relocation-kit-gb-feeler.247681/

 

Yes you don't need to pull the bed, i was just told that it just makes the prep easier and faster. I was told by @JLee that before you go and weld it down, put the bed on to make sure it still fits and make adjustments if needed.

I'm pulling the bed since I'll be doing the relocate, shackle flip, plating the frame and building a new rear xmember.

Edit: I do realize that I'm very fortunate to have access to a fabrication shop 2 miles from my house and a wealth of knowledge of my friends. Even with all of this, its going to be a shit ton of work.

 

Thanks dude! I need to keep an eye on JLee's website for a deal on these..I'd probably want a pre-welded kit to make it easier and smoother..If I can get a good deal on a set, I would be more motivated to do it together or shortly after the shackle flip

You have all the more reason to pull the bed haha that sounds sick dude! can't wait to see it done!

 

Thats what I did! 15% off I think is his deal. Yeah I would definitely go with pre welded kit, his welds are really good and saves you a bunch of time for not much more money.

 

I got mine not welded together. The reason I did that was soi T could be worked with when trying to get welded on the truck. @SoutheastOverland did all mine and I'm happy with the results that they did

 

@geekhouse23
If your going to pull the bed just do it for removal of the stock mounts and the final welding. Make sure the bed is in place when tacking the towers as you will have very little clearance between the tower and the bed. I like to put them at 9 degrees it's just enough forward to help clear the tire but no so far that your messing with the dampening of the shock. Ideally you want them at 0 degrees but that puts you right at the tallest part of the tire so it doesn't always work for guys that want to still flex out.

 

Didn't even know that thread existed

 

Did your Prinsu cab rack come with 7 or 8 cross bars? Mine came with 7 (6 regular and 1 for the wind deflector) but i'm thinking I need another one for the light bar to mount to

 

So I have the old school one that came without a cutout option and 2 crossbars for the deflector. So when I swapped to the cutout deflector, I had an extra cross bar to use for the LED bar.

 

Oh okay.. Hmm. Time to do some thinking then

 

If I had an extra one, I would send it to you.

 

Haha thanks man. Im thinking about this kind of setup

 

That should work just fine what bar are you planning on running?

 

Rigid SR2 40". Just thinking how to make those brackets.. think if I bend an aluminum piece to that it'll be strong enough?

 

I would personally go with steel..just my .02

 

Hmm.. Probably right

 

Nothing wrong with overkill for brackets